Table talk: The Chinese connection

Our Chinese eateries strike a comfortable balance for our ever so finicky taste buds.

LAHORE:

No matter which part of the world we travel in, homecoming in Pakistan is inevitably associated with getting our traditional fix of Chinese food at some point or another.

Well it’s not too Chinese and not too Pakistani either, but what our Chinese eateries serve up strikes a comfortable balance for our ever so finicky taste buds. Regardless of your feelings towards the addition of Monosodium Glutamate to Chinese preparations, Lahore has made quantum leaps in its offerings for those seeking such fare. Gone are the days when corn flour thickened soups and ketchup infused chicken would grace your table. Thankfully, the new wave of Chinese food outlets have moved towards light textures and fresh tastes—and that makes their food all the more remarkable and revolutionary.

Dynasty

Generally accepted to be the grand dame of Chinese dining in Lahore, Dynasty in the Avari Hotel is a popular venue to get your Chinese fix. No pricier than many alternative venues in the city, Dynasty offers good value for money if dining out in a large group. Before you eat the food though, do try their exquisite house tea which is scented with star anise and will help prepare your stomach for what’s to come. If you want some drama, go and celebrate a birthday there and be entertained by torch-bearing minstrels wishing you a happy long life. While the ambience and service will leave you with pleasant memories of a good dining experience, don’t be surprised if many of the dishes taste the same. I’ve found that on a bad day there is no discernible difference in the taste of their fish in garlic sauce or Kung Pao chicken. An overpowering sweetness in their dishes would make you think that dessert is more of a palette cleanser but the lunch experience here is far better than dinner anyway.

IQ Unique

Budget conscious consumers may want to visit the Gulberg main market in the evening to sample the Chinese food at IQ Unique. Look towards the corner of all the paan shops and you will find an unassuming van which brings new meaning to the words “street food”. For the past 10 years, the proprietor of this humble eatery has been providing Chinese food at a fraction of the price of other notable restaurants. This food can be found in the evening when the van moves in, puts up its shutters and the chef starts cooking on a large wok. For under Rs150 they offer a large plate of rice and a gravy dish like chicken Manchurian. It may not be the best food or ambience, but the number of customers shows how popular this place is with the common man.

Yum Chinese and Thai Restaurant

If there is one restaurant that has completely changed the way we eat Chinese, it is Yum. Situated just off MM Alam road, this restaurant is a personal favourite, although there is another outlet in Lahore’s Defence Housing Authority. Day or night you will find this place packed with customers so it is always a good idea to call and reserve a table, especially if you plan on eating here during the weekend. The chefs from Gilgit are well trained and I have never experienced variations in food quality. Try the Yum Special Beef and the Yum Special Fish if you are looking for something to take you beyond your regular order. The food and service will not disappoint and you may well be inspired to shout out “Xie Xie” to the management, waiters and the chefs (that’s “thank you” in Chinese). While men are strongly advised to sample what is arguably the best paan from the little kiosk right next to the entrance, ladies shouldn’t forget to pick up garlands from the front desk on their way out.

Hassaan Ghazali is a food law expert and gastronomic enthusiast based in Lahore.

Published in The Express Tribune, March 7^th, 2013.

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