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Another glimpse at Howrah Bridge?
All that people of my generation are left with are memories of better times on both sides of the Great Divide.
There is a scene in one of those old black and white Madhubala films when the eternal hero, Ashok Kumar lands up in a three star hotel in Calcutta. The manager escorts him to his room on the first floor, opens a double louvred window and says with a note of triumph: ‘And this is …Howrah Bridge’. In that one phrase, he conjured up a city with an embarrassment of cultural riches. Who knows, I may still be able to get a glimpse of this remarkable feat of British engineering, though I deeply regret never having met the great Jyoti Basu or Satyajit Ray.
Apparently, India wants to make it easier for certain categories of Pakistanis to obtain visas. This is a welcome bloom in the brickwork of relations between the two countries. Somebody in the interior ministry has predictably messed it up at our end, but then, as my friend in Yonkers, New York would have said, ‘So wot else is new?’. Nevertheless, I hope this gesture also entails the revision and simplification of the visa form. At present, the document is a masterpiece of British and Indian bureaucratic engineering, designed to give the applicant a king-size headache. I haven’t heard what the Indians have to say about our form. But knowing the lads in our ministry, I am sure they have done their utmost to make it equally exasperating and frustrating to complete.
We live in a country where the senior PPP politicians believe that we don’t really need a supreme court and that the only way to strengthen democracy is to regularly make incisions in the judicial wax tablet, establishing our uniqueness as a nation and hastening our march towards complete anarchy. Therefore, all that people of my generation are left with are memories of better times. Fortunately, the government can’t take that away from us, locked as they are in some remote part of the brain.
Can any painting by Claude be more elaborate than the Ajanta Caves or more beautiful than the Taj Mahal bathed in silver when a full moon is given speed by flying scarves of white cloud? Or more exciting than watching William Blake’s Royal Bengal tiger ‘burning bright in the forests of the night’? How well I remember those regattas on Bhopal’s Burra Talab when Brit was pitted against Indian, watched by the sagging rump of the Nawab’s squirearchy. And there was always the sea at Apollo Bunder, swallowing a big red sun every evening. Once during the winter vacation, one of the horses from the Paiga stables in Bhopal, thundered to victory from start to finish in a furious mile-gallop at the Mahalaxmi race course. And heck, have the Italians or the Swiss ever been able to produce an ice cream that comes even close to the mango kulfi served on banana leaves in Chowpatti on the Queen’s necklace?
I have a claim to Safdarjung’s Tomb, the Taj Mahal and the Stupa at Sanchi, just as the Indians have a claim to Mohatta Palace, the Shalimar Gardens and Jehangir’s tomb. The she-wolf’s litter has stood savagely at bay thrice during the last 65 years. It’s high time the military and the politicians on both sides of the Great Divide stopped behaving like children and started to grow up. We have 5,000 years of civilisation behind us. We don’t need the Americans or anybody else to tell us what we should and shouldn’t do. I am sure, the late Mr Jinnah and the late Pandit Nehru wouldn’t have wanted it any other way.
Published in The Express Tribune, May 31st, 2012.
Reader Comments (51)
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@Anwer Mooraj uncle,
I am only 31 years old and been reading and watching so many stories of india partition some good some bad some very ugly what if we lived together whats it was like it today
was it possible?? being raised up in karachi with Migrated peoples i know quite well about you
peoples.Recommend
As always, the sepia-tinted images that you draw up from memory are most evocative. However, on your noble thoughts; the late Nehru or Jinnah have very little claim on the countries that they have left behind.. well, Nehru can at least take credit for the temples of modern India, which produce much of what India is proud of today; Jinnah, not even that. I am sure that if Hindu civilization had completely been obliterated during the centuries when a handful of muslim rulers held sway over much of the sub-continent, today India’s great 5000-history would be claimed by your compatriots as proudly as Egyptians and Iranians tout their pre-Islamic heritage. The continued existence of Hindus somehow prevents you from doing that and causes them to indulge in creative fiction instead – strange, but I have no reason to complain.
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Certainly feel good article. If only bureaucrats and army higher ups are reading this and understanding the pulse of the people, Then things would not have come to this pass.
Rgds
P
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Mooraj sahib,
We are two nations. We donot have 5000 years in common. We have more common with those who designed and built the Taj Mahal. Our roots lie in Arabia, Turkey Iran Uzbekistan. We have little connection to the Pagans of South Asia.
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@Ejaaz,
Mooraj sahab saying 5000 years history of sub contienent age not the peoples of india.
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I have to second Blackjack in regards to what he said about Nehru. Nehruvian Socialism, which was the bedrock of his dream for India, is dead. We are no more Nehru’s India than we are Akbar’s. Right now we are in uncharted territories, and it will take another decade at least to define our (new) vision of India.
.
@Ejaaz
Proudly Pagan my friend. Irony is that more pagans may have died building the Taj Mahal, and more believers may have slogged to build Nankana Sahib. Anyway, we all have chosen our paths – and now we walk.
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@Anwer Mooraj
Nice reading.Thorughly enjoyed just like your earlier posts.
I share the longing too, but beg to differ from,
‘I am sure, the late Mr Jinnah and the late Pandit Nehru wouldn’t have wanted it any other way.’
Actually they did want to have it this way, that’s why they agreed to partition.No amount of eloquent waxing can hide it.Why they wanted it, is another issue but they didn’t know the consequences is hard to believe.
If they (Mr Jinnah and Pandit Nehru) thought while scheming for partition, that people from either side of the divide will kiss and hug each other and sing and dance together and make merry from now on, after so many lives ruined,honour violated and blood spilled, then I am afraid, they were naive at best and delusional at worst.
You and me are harvesting the fruits, seeds were sown back then
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@Ejaaz
And who designed and built the Taj Mahal? Shahjahan (who by the way was the 5th in the sequence of Mughal emperors – all of whom except Babur i.e #1, were born and brought up in ‘South Asia’) was the guy who financed the project : the designers and builders were ‘pagans of South Asia’. The very same peoples who created the Ajanta / Ellora, the Sanchi stupa, Takshashila, Qutub Minar, Fatehpur Sikri, Bamiyan buddhas and thousands of other monuments including the Indus Valley ruins that lie in ‘South Asia’.
You are a shining example the (green)brainwashing that causes you reject your roots! Learn from the Egyptians / Turks / Iranians / Jordanians who are proud of their pre-Islamic heritage. And try telling an Arab that your roots lie in Arabia!
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Mooraj Sahib, it doesn’t look like an indian visa will suffice for you – better apply for an indian passport – and here’s some more free advice – attach a copy of this article to your application for a quick and successful realization of your desire and our deliverance.
Only one question lingers – why did you bother crossing over to begin with?
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@Ali Tanoli:
Muhammad bin Qasim was not 5000 years ago. Our shared history is less than 1500 years.
@Sinclair:
Indeed we have chosen our paths and we now walk. The logic of the choice of Quaid-e-Azam Muhammad Ali Jinnah has to play out to its logical conclusion. Sentiments expressed with rose tinted glasses tries to take us before the Direct Action days and hundreds of thousands killed. The sufis tried to make peace with the Pagans, but their fudging of facts did not save a single drop from being shed. Yes pride goes with being a Pagan. Islam teaches humility. So, let each one walk on the path they have chosen.
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@Cynical,
Short words big meaning thank u sir for light. very true,
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@3rdRockfromtheSun:
Pagan Pride is difficult. You show your ignorance. I suggest you go look up what your Government says about who the architect of the Taj Mahal was. They credit it to the Turk, Ismail Afandi. The Mughal literature credits 37 names and only the stone layer is a pagan name. So go educate yourself please.
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@Cynical:
Completely agree with u Anwar …they (Jinnah and Nehru ) were not naive but both of them were real politicians they got what they wanted – Prime ministerialship and what did us peope get – years of hatred war and destruction only.
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Alas Mooraj Saheb,though Howrah Bridge still stands there but that eternal identity of calcutta running over Howrah Bridge The Tram is gone.
Because of the yahoos from pakistan,those carefree days are gone when The Taj on a full moon night with of swirl of cloud is not the Tear but an etherial experience.
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@ Ejaaz: Like wearing a pant does not make one European, similarly having a Arabic name does not make one Arab. This thinking has made Pakistan like a hanging garden with roots in air. Arabs don’t accept you and your don’t accept be of local. There is local saying; ” Kauwa chala hans ki chaal, aur upnee bhi kho baitha”.
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I am glad Jinnah had a nation to house people like Ejaaz.
Meanwhile, while you are nostalgic about Howrah bridge , a few of your compatriots too may come, but to blow up the bridge.
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@Ejaaz: ask the saudis,turks,persians and uzbeks if they feel the same way about u,u might change your mind.
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Taj Mahal cheif artitect was Ustad Ahmed Lahauri ( A persian settled in Lahore ) and two Turkish Architects Ustad Isa Effendi and Ismail Khan. Many of the stone cutters and stone layers were imported from Persia and Central Asia. Name a single South Asian Pagan Architecture before the Mughals that had precious and semi-precious stones inlay work in Marble. There weren’t any.
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PAK has all these and rejected them, remember.
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This baggage of being Arab shalt only lead to thou carrying the bags of the Arabs.
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@Ejaaz
Aah! The (green)washed brain at work again! Selectively picking one name from Wiki to imply that it’s architect was a ‘Turk’ – he is apparently the one who designed only the dome. I’m sure the Taj is more than just the dome. And are you implying that only the ’37 mentioned in Mughal literature’ were the ones who built the Taj? You also missed the line in the Wiki write-up which talks about the twenty thousand labourers hired from across North India, in addition to the best of creative minds Shahjahan could buy – admittedly many came from West Asia. ‘Hindustan’ as it was then referred to (which included your present country) has been a melting pot, assimilating many different cultures – from conquerors and traders alike. And just like that, the Taj combines elements of Turkish, Persian & Indian architecture.
‘Education’ does not end at ‘learning to read’ as you seem to think – but involves broadening one’s mind. Give it a try – take those blinkers away.
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Mr..Mooraj, your dream of visiting India on a liberalised visa has already been scuttled by the Generals in Rawalpindi. The other much hyped oil trade issue will meet the same fate as Pakistani establishment has suddenly realised the virtues of oil being a strategic commodity. As far as our common heritage is concerned, we in India have no doubt in our minds that most of the Pakistanis are of the same stock as the Indians(Read Hindus). It’s the Pakistanis who deny their cultural roots which go back to more than 5000 years. Pakistan’s denial of their shared cultural history justifies the two nation theory and the subsequent partition of India. Never mind that India’s multi-cultural secular democracy next door trashes the two nation theory everyday. Pakistan was created on propaganda, it lives on propaganda and will wither away because of propaganda.
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An excellent article. I strongly recommend not to read the comments as most of them are a load of nonsense.
The movie Howrah Bridge has a cabaret song in it that I think not only rivals but surpasses most stuff churned out by Bollywood today.
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@Author.
very well written article. wish there were more people like you who could influence the next course of indo-Pak shared history.
@ Ejaaz: you should encourage the turks to be called pakistanis. then you may claim a hand in making of the blue mosque and the topkapi museum! Nothing wrong in believing you are an Arab! Hopefully the arabs will accept that too!
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Mooraj is part of dying generation that knew the greater India, that cultural identity, that existed for thousands of years. But that generation also caused (allowed?) the partition to happen much to the detriment of generations to come. The partition is a sad day for us Pakistanis as on that day we lost our claim to our historical indian identity and cultureRecommend
@Ejaaz Bhai,
I have friend from Dehli india he is Muslim by faith we met few yaers back when he passed by in our busniss to buy some cold drink and snack we talk too much like we do indo paki
peoples allways few weeks ago we were talking about countries i told we god more chances and oppurtunities after getting seprate country u know what he said there were more chances
and oppurtunities if it was a one country in big country more land more peoples more choices
more institutions i asked him then why u guys are back in india u know what he said the reason is also pakistan now what ever we ask we been told u got allready what else u want…
i dont know what to say every day i learn some thing diffrent from some one.
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@Ejaaz,
why cant we make a peace with india if they are pagan then what about china are they muslim?????Recommend
Great article. Our common history and culture should be celebrated, and this is the first step in making it a possibility. I hope you can communicate this sense of acceptance of cultural connection that we share across borders to the youth who often get misguided through believing in just the media instead of those with first hand experiences like yourself. It brings people together and despite not undoing territorial boundaries, can at least can emotionally undo the partition of hearts made in ’47.
Reading comments by others here, I wonder how intolerant some people can be. This article is one that is supposed to bring us together, in enjoying our common heritage, and there are people hairsplitting and bickering over religion-based differences? If you want to get into that, why cant everyone understand that all religions aim at the same basic goals? We are all essentially the same – desi!
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@ Ejaaz
@Ahmed Khalid:
In all my travels abroad over the years, An Indian meeting a stanger looking like a desi will always ask if he is an Indian, and a pakistani will ask if the other is a pakistani. Fact remains that both are desis, look and dress so alike, and speak similar english , punjabi, urdu.
Surely a pakistani will never ask a Turk or an Arab, or a Syrian or Egyptian if he is a pakistani. He may share a religion, but certainly not a culture.frican muslim( nigerian for instance), there is no desire to share even a conversation
As far as religion is concerned a Christian from philipines does not have any identity bonding with a christian from europe, nor with one from africa. fact is culture bonds far more. Shared history is shared cultures.
In the end, two desis cornered and attacked by skinheads will defend each other even if they are indians and pakistanis.Recommend
@Ali Tanoli
being raised up in karachi with Migrated peoples i know quite well about you peoples.
And what ‘peoples’ would that be?
People who talk all the time about ‘you peoples’ and ‘we peoples’ can’t possibly live peacefully with any ‘peoples’.
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@Observer,
100% right bro.
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@ Ejaaj: I want you to have a look at the picture of Angkor Wat temples In present day camodia which were built by Hindu Kings around 1200 AD;
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=angkor+wat+temple&hl=en&biw=1600&bih=775&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=r9DXUpMj2GsyyM:&imgrefurl=http://www.momguesthouse.com/temples-angkor-tours-siem-reap.html&docid=k5eJrCgd6mzZSM&imgurl=http://www.momguesthouse.com/photos/angkor-wat/angkor-wat-sky-view.jpg&w=400&h=267&ei=HIPHT4yHJ-fN6QHNx5HlDw&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=1008&vpy=323&dur=652&hovh=183&hovw=275&tx=169&ty=105&sig=103963486821771386041&page=1&tbnh=129&tbnw=172&start=0&ndsp=32&ved=1t:429,r:13,s:0,i:127
See how closely the Taj Mahal layout is to this temple? Same central dome, four smaller minarets, same water canals etc. Please red the history of subcontinent carefully and you will know the riches. Don’t associate local knowledge with Hinduism. Go to youtube and you will find even detailed diagrams of Spaceships in our old books. There is a History channel documentary on all this.
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My ancestors were sikhs, but some great great great grandfather converted to islam. thats true for a lot of punjabi friends i know. being a muslim is an important part of my identity, it defines me. so is being a pakistani. but then, so is being a south asian and we share so many cultures, traditions and roots with indians that we are more than neighbours, we are brothers. and these nonsensical visa restrictions should be stopped.
@babloo, extremists dont define us. have you come to pakistan and actually experienced the ground realities? Recommend
@Ahmed Khalid:
Sir, I agree with you 100% and with some other comments as well. The problem is simple as I saw firsthand. The people who hate the other are living in a pond and have tunnel vision. The people who have visited each other’s country are the best judge and they are the most open minded. I visited India first time in early 1990′s and felt like home. I was comfortable, and free to do whatever I wanted and never felt threatened. I enjoyed desi atmosphere without fear after a long time in my life. Since then I visited India regularly and continued being impressed by it openness, secularism and freedom without fear. It is sad that the establishment in Pakistan does not allow the friendship to grow and the truth comes out.
With the restriction and humiliation of long wait for Indian visa, I have been going to Malaysia for my winter vacations and enjoy the similar environment. The Indian govt could do like the US. They should not deny visa to older people (senior citizens). They cannot use one size fits all policy anymore in this day and age.Recommend
The more this issue is politicised on one side or the other or on both sides, the more it becomes complicated, rather a wishful thinking. The post-partition generations of both the countries may have different feelings for each other’s countries but those who were born and bred and spent some early years of their life in British India feel very nostalgic about their birth
place. Such generation is well past 65 years of age and the two governments should liberalise visa conditions, better exempt them from visa conditions. The two governments should do this, more on humanitarian grounds, before this generation becomes extinct. I appreciate Mr. Mooraj’s article which truly reflects the sentiments of the pre-partition generations of the two countries. Well Done Mr. Anwar Mooraj.
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To all those who claim that Pakistanis are Arabs
I ask you people to visit the Arabian peninsula and work under them…You will know the “respect” those Arabs give you….Why they “respectfully” call you “Mawali”
You can also find Pakistanis bringing their ghairat in mud by staying with Indians and fraternizing with them…..
According to Arabs,there are two kinds of people in the world…Arabs and Non-Arabs…
Being a muslim will not make you an Arab…If you want to test it,try marrying one of the Arab girls….
In Non-Arabs,they segregate into two, Whites and Asians….They have a big inferiority complex over whites….They will not question a European and American worker,but an Pakistani or Indian or Filipino worker will always be looked down upon…..
I think the Pakistanis who have worked there already know the truth and may have chosen not to reveal it….
Wake up and smell the coffee,my brothers…
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It is weird. Pakistanis are not Indians. Pakistanis are not Arabs. A lot of Pakistanis really do have their ancestors from the Middle east and central asia. The Imam of the Jamia Masjid of New Delhi is called Bukhari because his ancestors came from Bukhara. Pakistanis do not want to be like Indians. We are not arabs, iranians, turks, uzbekis, etc. We are pakistanis. For a lot of us, our ancestors did come from the west of Pakistan, just as for some of us their ancestors were Indian Pagans. Anyone who is old enough should be able to see that the dress, the language, and other aspects of culture of Pakistan and India have grown apart over the last 64 years and are rapidly growing farther apart with time.
Afghanistan used to be ruled by Pagans and considered part of the Indian Pagan Culture. Most Indians no longer consider Afghanistan as part of their mythical “greater India”. Just as they no longer consider Indonesia part of greater India. Pakistan in another few decades will be like that. The similarities between the two countries are decreasing and diminishing rapidly because Pakistanis really do not want to have anything to do with Indian Paganism.
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@Mirza
I agree. They cannot use one size fits all policy anymore in this day and age. But it is easier for US to adopt that policy than India, due to the fact that we have more in common as you described than they have more in uncommon to identify any possible threats easier. Even though being an Indian, I have no privilege to pass through security windows without proper screening. So you are not alone. Yes, one advantage is that I have not been denied Visa.
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@Ejaaz:
Thats an interesting observation about nations and their cultures going on divergent paths over time. However, would you say the same about pashtuns across the durrand line? have they culuturally become different in last 50 years? Since the Balochs have not assimilated , are they “culturally” different from Pakistan. If your ancesters came from uzbekistan, or turkmenistan, are you closer to being a uzbek? Is an uzbek closer to being a russian than being a pakistani? in anycase these are strange examples. how often do you hear a debate about Brits and Americans being “culturally” different? or for that matter Americans and Canadians? or Australians and New zealanders? To my mind the general acceptance among all is about shared culture and heritage and not differenciations. Only the narrow minded escapist wants to see it thru a narrow tunnel vision.
In anycase, Indians are happy about being seen as brothers with other south asians. I guess it has to do with its size and economic confidence.
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@Wajib:
Sorry to disappoint you Wajib. I am quite happy with my Pakistani passport, but thanks for your generous offer.. My father, who traces his ancestry to the Rajputs of Chitor, migrated to Pakistan in 1947, because as an Indian Muslim he felt it was the right thing to do. He was Quaid-e-Azam’s dental surgeon and was awarded an S.K. by Ayub Khan. Once again, thank you for your input. The harshness of the criticism was unwarranted. But I think you meant well. .
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@Anwer Mooraj:
Sir, Thanks for a nice read… And may I mae a suggestion here – please don’t degrade yourself by reacting to someone who questions your allegiance to your country. Such ppl don’t matter and reacting to such messeges should be well below your dignity.
We all love our respective countries and one’s love towards his country does not need to be proved by expressing hatred towards another country.
Warm Regards – AA
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@No-Tit-for-Tat:
@Anwer Mooraj:
Fully endorse views of No-Tit-for-Tat.
This was the most sensible and thoughtful views presented by Mr. Mooraj. Hawks who hate others have no place in the global world of 2012.
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@No-Tit-for-Tat
Great post.Totally agree.
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@Ejaaz:
Than why are we asking for their visa ? You may not but a lot want it including celebrities ! They don’t seem to come back either.
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@Ejaaz
The similarities between the two countries are decreasing and diminishing rapidly because Pakistanis really do not want to have anything to do with Indian Paganism.
Yes, so true. A couple of years down the road I can see…..
Date palms swinging in the wind instead Pagan mango orchards.
And Sohnis riding camels to have a date with Mahiwal.
And belly dancing all around.
And men in long gowns doing wheelies on Lahore roads.
And no one speaking in Pagan tongues like Punjabi and Sindhi.
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@observer
‘Date palms’..’Pagan mango orchards’…’Sohnis riding camel’…’Belly dancing’……
Hilarious at the extreme.Thanks for the lough.
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You are right Indians, Pushtuns are not central asians, they are Indians. We look and talk just like you… no differences whatsoever.
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Generally speaking, Pakistanis and Indians, Pakistan and India are different in: genetics, overall genetic composition, religion, culture, rituals, linguistics, dress, diet, ethnicity, governance, pre-history, civilization, race, complexion, geography, topography, philosophy, script, cuisine, music, entertainment, perception, soico-politics and economies.
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you guys don’t get it. we have both date palms and mango orchards. why is this so hard for you to accept? you dislike us but you say we are the same as you.
by the way, Pakistan is rated among the largest producers of date palm in the world with over 150 different varieties. :)
Cheers.
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@Mirza: Mirzaji,
People like you are our honoured guests. The visa liberalization has been delayed by Pakistan. Hopefully, the ego will give way to commerce. The liberalized policy did talk of visa on arrival for senior citizens and kids.
I am sorry that people like you had to suffer humiliation with delayed visa. I hope you DO understand the legitimate concerns that Indians had the immediate backlash in the aftermath of 26/11. A way has o be found that genuine visitors are welcomed and treated as honoured guests even as we keep out the David Headleys.
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Mooraj Sahib, There will be single tracked minds who think of nothing but conspiracy theoriesboth countries abound in these species.Yours and your family’s contributions to this bleeding land don’t need takersthey are well known to the vast majority of intellectual people and such people matter more.I can feel the pain that a sensitive soul would feel when caustic remarks are brandished about without any thought or feelings.I suppose that’s the down side of the social media.Remember a lot of people have not only read you but also have made you their mentor when it comes to the English Language_so do not be dismayed.Recommend