The final day at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week set a new benchmark for most designers in the Pakistani fashion fraternity. It is safe to say that some of the collections presented on day four — that stood out because of the simplistic and minimalistic design ideologies — have changed the dynamics of summer fashion and have tweaked the concept of pret-a-porter for the better.
Zara Shahjahan raised expectations before showcasing her collection by announcing that she had scrapped three collections before deciding upon the one she will present. However, this build-up did not meet the anticipating audience’s expectations at all. In fact, her collection seemed more like bedtime pyjamas on the ramp. With prints and cuts that she had already used in her earlier collections, Shahjahan’s collection was far from being a trend-setter.
The House of Kamiar Rokni surprised the audience with a collection that was again not essentially Kamiar’s style but was still well-received because it showed that the designer is evolving. He too, understood that pret-a-porter does not include heavily embellished outfits and sometimes elegance and grace can come from simplicity. The juxtaposition of floral and marble prints was not only fun to watch but was also very wearable. The cuts reflected the feminine sensibility of the 70s and exuded Christopher Kane and Alice & Olivia type of a vibe.
Sadaf Malaterre & Anjum Alix Noon
Sadaf Malaterre presented a line of funky, graffiti-inspired dresses and tops. The designer worked on the collection with artist Anjum Alix Noon from Islamabad and together, the duo put together a collection that had an Anna Sui and Jil Sander feel to it, with cuts that were largely inspired by Jason Wu. Malaterre’s abstract doodled prints and peace signs had a vintage feel to them that gelled very well with the concept of pret-a-porter.
If there was one collection that owned PFDC, it was Sania Maskatiya’s line, which was an ode to the trend of colour blocking. In essence, this is what we call ‘less is more’. With no embellishments at all, Maskatiya was able to create a very trendy stylish and casual chic collection that exuded luxury. The richness of colour and the colour scheming used made Maskatiya’s collection such a hit. The excellence in the textiles used and the screen prints put the designer in a league of her own.
Hassan Sheheryar Yasin
The master showman himself presented the finale collection with great drama and style, but forgot that no matter how much drama and theatrics one puts in a fashion show, it eventually boils down to the quality of the collection presented. It was disappointing to see HSY put out designs and motifs he had used in his previous collections and lines. Where HSY’s showmanship rejuvenated PFDC and made it into a quality event, his collection marred his performance as a designer.
Omar Farooq’s collection had its share of hits and misses. While some of the winter coats were well-cut and crisply-tailored, the pairing with skinny and drainpipe pants did not work. The feel of the collection was for the metro man rather than your average Joe. The diagonal checked print seemed like Louis Vuitton’s signature print gone haywire.
Published in The Express Tribune, April 19th, 2012.