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                        <title>The Express Tribune</title>
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                        <description>The Express Tribune keeps you up to date with all the latest happenings from Pakistan and across the world!</description>
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			<title>PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week to be held April 11 to April 14</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1905459/pfdc-sunsilk-fashion-week-held-april-11-april-14</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1905459/pfdc-sunsilk-fashion-week-held-april-11-april-14#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Thu, 07 Feb 19 10:19:52 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[our.correspondent]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=1905459</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Event leads industry through creative influence and is strategically repositioning Pakistani fashion in global economy]]>
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				<![CDATA[The Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) is set to host the upcoming PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week [#PSFW19] in Lahore, to be held from April 11 to April 14, stated a press release.

This year will mark the 20th consecutive fashion week for PFDC. The Council organises back-to-back Spring and Fall fashion trade events as per the international fashion calendar. It leads the industry through creative influence and is strategically repositioning Pakistani fashion in the global fashion economy. The PFDC is a not-for-profit organisation that aims to further the interests of the Pakistan fashion industry and its designer businesses by harnessing and sharing collective knowledge, experience and resources of the sector.

[caption id="attachment_1071947" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: FILE[/caption]

PFDC showcases the best of Pakistani fashion design to local and international audiences, including the press and buyers. The Council  seeks to promote Pakistan’s culture, where craft and creation have a major impact by combining traditional know how and technology.

Along with that, every season the PFDC nurtures young promising designers by giving them the opportunity to promote themselves through the “Rising Talent” segment.

[caption id="attachment_689182" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO:FILE[/caption]

At the interface between houses and media, the council draws up and transmits the list of accredited journalists and photographers each season. The council also accompanies journalists in their follow-up of collections and provides them with content that is essential for analysing the week in its entirety.

[caption id="attachment_694949" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: AFP[/caption]

Showcasing three distinct categories as part of PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week, including Luxury Prêt, High-Street prêt-a-porter shows and Lawn.

[caption id="attachment_280232" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO : AFP[/caption]

PFDC looks forward to an exciting, bigger and even better show this season, while celebrating the Council’s 20th consecutive Fashion Week.
For more information and to live stream each show, logon to: http://www.pfdc.org/ and http://www.facebook.com/PFDCOfficial or follow PFDC on twitter: https://twitter.com/PFDCOfficial  and on Instagram: https://instagram.com/pfdcofficial

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			<title>PLBW 2018 Day 2: New concepts, new cuts and new inspirations</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1796931/plbw-2018-day-2-new-concepts-new-cuts-new-inspirations</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1796931/plbw-2018-day-2-new-concepts-new-cuts-new-inspirations#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Thu, 06 Sep 18 12:38:39 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[Amber Liaqat]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=1796931</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Creativity, glamour and unusual designs rule the runway on second day of fashion week]]>
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				<![CDATA[The second day of PFDC Pakistan L’Oreal Paris Bridal Week (PLBW) witnessed designers showcasing new concepts, new cuts and new inspirations. While creativity, glamour and unusual designs are a common phenomenon on the fashion runways, this one was no different. But, we appreciated how most design houses focused on wearability. The evening commenced with grouped shows, followed by a solo show by Nida Azwer and a finale grouped show featuring Misha Lakhani, Zainab Salman, Hamza Bokhari, Farah &amp; Fatima and Kamiar Rokni.

Here’s what went down at the fashion extravaganza.

Designer: Nida Azwer
Collection: The Rani Bagh

[caption id="attachment_1796943" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

Known for reviving age-old techniques while crafting ensembles, Nida stayed true to her love for animals. She finely entwined her signature style with doses of delicate, floral embroidery to create a dreamy Mughal collection. The designer also brought mirror and cutwork to life in the form of gota on rich fabrics such as tissue and net. And, it all looked oh-so-regal.

One thing that stood out in the collection was the display of heavily embellished, oversized shawls with noteworthy animal motifs, enhanced with delicate hand embroidery. The menswear line consisted of 10 statement pieces with embroidered waistcoats and bright-coloured sherwanis.

Designer: Misha Lakhani

Collection: Ab-e-Rawan

[caption id="attachment_1796944" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

Misha Lakhani’s collection celebrated the bohemian nomad in a mix of Persian and Central Asian textiles with hand-woven fabrics steeped in old-world charm. The assortment of clothing was based entirely in luxurious fabrics and cuts, adorned in a range of feminine silhouettes. It mainly entailed solid colours enhanced with shimmering gold gota work.

The runway opened to noticeable pre-draped dupattas, voluminous crushed ghagras and timeless angarkhas featuring bold borders. Profoundly embroidered flared maxi dresses were a sight for sore eyes. The jewellery collaboration with Aliel comprised distinct pieces that could be deconstructed to create multiple looks.

Designer: Zainab Salman

Collection: Bazeecha-e-Ishq

[caption id="attachment_1796954" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

Presenting her debut collection, Zainab Salman fused traditional wear with couture. The designer took a sharp turn from overly modern formal wear to a traditional bridal collection inspired by unconditional love, with the palette and work encompassing the passion that comes with it. A lot of attention was paid to finessing the collection with the likes of customised tassels on cholis, lehengas and dupattas.

We loved how Zainab revived the tissue fabric by contrasting it with floral prints and stuck to traditional aesthetics while experimenting with modern silhouettes. The sari, worn by model Sabeeka Imam, was our favourite from the collection. Actor Iqra Aziz, who was one of the celebrity showstoppers, was garbed in a voluminous golden-hued lehenga paired with an opulently embellished, hand embroidered gown. She walked the ramp with musician Ali Noor.

Designer: The House of Kamiar Rokni

Collection: Moonrise

[caption id="attachment_1796945" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

Celebrating the power of femininity and the beauty of adornment, Kamiar’s collection had a mix of painstaking traditional couture, intricate embroidery and tailored bohemian formals. It comprised heirloom pieces including ornamented ganga jamuni lehengas – a legacy that is passed on from one generation to the next.

Overall, the collection was a cocktail spread which saw structured Victorian sleeves and sleek vibrant borders with a colour palette that moved from the daintiness of lilac to the intensity of blood red. The most distinctive feature of this showcase was the fact that it was extremely wearable. Kamiar was able to shine light on the elaborate needlework without overwhelming the entire look; allowing the customer to have the pleasure of wearing couture as formals.

Designer: Jeem by Hamza Bokhari

Collection: Mizaaj

[caption id="attachment_1796946" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

Staying true to his roots, Hamza explored the crafts and grandeur of southern Pakistan. Exhibiting the unification of opulence and minimalism, his offerings entailed sparkling floral designs and animal motifs in jewel-toned, ultra-feminine silhouettes. Although we laud the designer’s endeavour to curate a vintage collection with a modern twist, it was the cuts and intricate hand embroidery that were a sure-fire stand-out.

Designer: Farah &amp; Fatima

Collection: Dastaan

[caption id="attachment_1796947" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

The designer duo created a collection with the essence of traditionalism by bringing modern asymmetrical formals to customary long shirts, containing zardozi, tilla and resham work. The brand’s strongest point was their exquisite craftsmanship and colour contrasts within the embellishments and fabrics. Overall, they presented multiple bridal wear options for this season.

Other designers

[caption id="attachment_1796948" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

Lajwanti, Rici Melion, FAS and Ahmad Bilal also showcased their collections. However, we felt they all could have opted for more updated silhouettes and aesthetic diversity on the runway, rather than using design techniques which have already been done and dusted. We also sensed that their ‘traditional’ wedding collections slowly diverted towards more westernised silhouettes, creating chaos; especially Lajwanti. Their collections seemed lost somewhere between modern and traditional wear.

[caption id="attachment_1796949" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

Rici Melion, on the other hand, brought interesting menswear to the ramp with affluent embroideries and variations in sherwanis.

Have something to add to the story? Share it in the comments below.]]>
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			<title>'Quaid-e-Azam is the ultimate style icon'</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1792862/quaid-e-azam-ultimate-style-icon-deepak-perwani</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1792862/quaid-e-azam-ultimate-style-icon-deepak-perwani#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sat, 01 Sep 18 09:07:08 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[Ramsha Vistro]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=1792862</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Deepak Parwani talks fashion and becoming the latest chairman of Fashion Pakistan Council]]>
			</description>
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				<![CDATA[Fashion Pakistan Week is fast approaching and many are already prepping for all the glitz and glam that it entails. But before all the hustle and bustle commences, The Express Tribune caught up with Deepak Perwani, who recently became the chairperson of Fashion Pakistan Council (FPC), to find out what’s in store for us this season.

‘The Express Tribune [ET]’: How did you become the chairperson of Fashion Pakistan Council (FPC)?

Deepak Perwani [DP]: Well, I have been part of FPC since its inception, which was 13 years ago. One of the articles of the FPC memorandums states that a designer has to be the chairperson or CEO which can be either paid or gratis, depending on the role. We have many members as part of this council and have had many CEOs and chairpersons in the past. So I guess now, it’s all finally trickled down and my turn has to come.

[caption id="attachment_1793484" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

ET: What is the first thing you will do or have done as the chairperson?

DP: I was lucky enough to get a paid CEO role while everyone else was a gratis CEO (laughs) so I turned the game around. We had a very small office but now we have an apt one with a proper setup, staff and everything.

ET: How long is your tenure?

DP: Although technically, a chairperson is for life but we have always had them for three years each. I believe now we have changed the rule to six years because by the time a chairperson breaks into his or her role and learns the entire process, it’s already time for them to leave. Three years is too short – they’ll just have to re-elect me. But I hope they don’t so I can concentrate on my own business (laughs).

[caption id="attachment_1793487" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

ET: How has FPC contributed to Pakistan’s fashion industry?

DP: This started back in the day with just a bunch of us deciding that we no longer want to be entertainment anymore; rather the serious business of fashion. And it has been a tremendous journey. Money is always an issue and especially in those days, we didn’t have any sponsors so we had to put money from our own pockets; all of us, PKR500, 000 each – I’ll never forget that part.

We ended up making the business of Pakistani fashion today: everything is professional, our designers have jobs – including textile designers – photographers, choreographers, models, emerging talent and students, all have a platform to showcase their work. At the same time, we are looking at how big export houses have walked into the domestic retail market. All of this happened because we decided we want to regulate fashion.

[caption id="attachment_1793489" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: INSTRAGRAM/ DEEPAKPERWANIBRAND[/caption]

Now, 13 years later, I realise that it’s a very competitive business, one that keeps you on your toes and actually generates revenue for not just designers but fashion publications, bloggers and social media users, etc. That’s what we have managed to achieve.

ET: What is your overall take on the Pakistani fashion industry? What has changed and where is it headed?

DP: I have seen the dynamism that’s walked in and now there’s a category of serious retail with design houses constantly expanding. Before, we only had textile designers who worked in fashion so it’s safe to say our industry has become very diverse and professional. We are not just Pakistani fashion; we are now a global brand.

The industry is definitely not headed into a collision, I’ll tell you that. It’s headed for a very bright future. Look at how design has changed within our nation and how all of a sudden, there’s a curiosity about Pakistani design internationally.

[caption id="attachment_1793497" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: INSTAGRAM/ DEEPAKPERWANIBRAND[/caption]

ET: What problems do you see?

DP: There will always be problems in this industry which we can learn from. As of now, I see a dearth of individuality; everything looks the same. However, this is happening due to the constant visual influence from social media which inherently sways designers to create products they should not be creating for their brands. Back in the day, we wouldn’t show anyone our designs; we’d hide them away in sandooks (trunks).

ET: How do you propose to help emerging designers enter the industry?

DP: We have a millennial platform titled Made in Pakistan which is as big as FPW, if not bigger because that’s also three days of fashion. It’s usually catered to foreign buyers. So we bring the designers to this platform first from which they graduate into the FP podium. We do this because it is very important to see a designer for at least three seasons to understand whether or not they can sustain themselves. 80% of the time, we need to guide them or they generally fall apart.

[caption id="attachment_1793505" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: INSTAGRAM/ DEEPAK PERWANI[/caption]

ET: Why is it that most fashion weeks occur around April and September rather than throughout the whole year?

DP: We work on the international calendar. Technically, we should be showing the Fall/Winter collection around April which mainly consists of formal/bridal wear and in September-November, we should be showing Spring/Summer. But because we don’t have any buyers placing orders and designers are not ready on time, we can’t.

However, if a buyer is even remotely interested in coming to one of our fashion events, we have to take that into account. Dubai, India and Pakistan are considered as one region so when a buyer is already travelling for India and Dubai fashion weeks, he can come to Pakistan too.

You also have to understand that designers have a lot of other collections they need to focus on. You can either show or sell. In one year, we have around 10 celebrations: Eidul Fitr, Eidul Azha, Independence Day, Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, along with other projects which include awards ceremonies, films etc.

[caption id="attachment_1793509" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

Designers are not sitting idle; they have many assignments to deal with and are working constantly. It also costs a lot of money to show just one collection, whereas the timeline of selling is very short. It’s not every day that a designer wants to churn out new samples without having cashed on their old ones.

ET: How do you plan on balancing your brand now that you are chairman?

DP: I end up having to neglect my business sometimes. As a non-profit organisation, it’s very difficult because everything is dependent on funds and it’s not an easy task to constantly ask people for money. We have to be doing the job very selflessly. But I can’t complain, even though it’s a thankless job; one where we’re constantly trying to help others. Sometimes, we get a thank you, most times we don’t.

[caption id="attachment_1793514" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO:INSTAGRAM/ DEEPAK PERWANI[/caption]

ET: Who, in your opinion, is the style icon of today?

DP: Fawad Khan! And I like what Maya Ali looks like however, she’s too young to be an icon just yet. But, the ultimate style icon, for me, has to be Quaid-e-Azam… phenomenal across the board!

ET: What should we expect from FPW 2018? 

DP: First and foremost, expect good things. As far as we are concerned, you will get two off grid shows and the second show is around a month later, so we are very excited about that. We’re doing two solo shows and the others are group shows. It’s a three-day event with all the lunches, sundowners and what have you, as part of FPW.

We have a very nice lineup and are excited about the new synergies we’ve built this year. There is a beautiful new set, the red carpet will be completely different and there’s something else which I can’t reveal just yet but take my word, it’s going to be good! It’s our 13th year and I’m proud to say that we have managed to survive.

Have something to add to the story? Share it in the comments below. ]]>
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			<title>PSFW 2018 Day 3: A summer romance with fashion</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1659777/psfw-2018-day-3-summer-romance-fashion</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1659777/psfw-2018-day-3-summer-romance-fashion#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Wed, 14 Mar 18 10:13:18 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[Amber Liaqat]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=1659777</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Last but not the least, day three’s offerings prove the ideal way to conclude a quality fashion event]]>
			</description>
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				<![CDATA[The 11th PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week (PSFW) concluded with HSY’s grand show on Sunday. It was a progressive fashion week overall, with many new designers making their big debuts.

Even though PSFW 2018 lacked any real ‘celebrity moment,’ the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) successfully created quality fashion and a quality event, as witnessed by the amazing responses garnered from the audience this time around. Here’s a lowdown of who showed what at PSFW’s grand finale.

HSY

Collection: Knight

[caption id="attachment_1659800" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

Needless to say, the class couturier cast a spell on everyone once again with Knight – a beautifully detailed collection boasting of exquisite beadwork and delicate ornaments attached to sleek, all-black silhouettes. And the best part was, that team HSY used just local materials for the entire collection.

Supermodel Mehreen Syed was seen walking the ramp to funky retro music in a fierce, shimmery red gown. But the real showstopper was HSY’s mother who graced the event in support of her son.

With Knight, HSY paid homage to the powerful women not only in his life but also around the world. As he sees it, women are going into battle for change and raising their voice more than ever before. In other words, they are their own ‘knights’ in HSY’s shining armour.

Fahad Hussayn

Collection: The Gilded Wastelands

[caption id="attachment_1659801" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

This line comprised of Fahad’s luxury, novelty-couture and signature bespoke menswear. The Gilded Wastelands consisted of silk thread embroidery interlaced with delicate hand work, minimal embellishment and surface ornamentation. Net, organza, tissue, and chiffon added the fresh look that Fahad had hoped for this Spring/Summer collection. Amna Ilyas stole the show in a floor-length embellished gold gown, adorned with feather details.

Zonia Anwaar

Collection: ODISHA

[caption id="attachment_1659802" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

Zonia has always designed clothes for real life. Her creations are fuss free, both on and off the ramp. This season, she presented ODISHA which is inspired by one of the world’s most primitive Indian tribes, known for its multihued geometric Ikat patterns.

ODISHA featured sleek tailored pieces alongside boxy blouses and summer jackets, with intricate beading, embroidery and Ikat-inspired cold prints. With a colour palette comprising of mikado yellow, autumnal amber and bright pink hues, the line consisted of summer coats, constructive crop tops, bold prints, notch collars and lots and lots of layering.

Republic by Omar Farooq

Collection: Manga

[caption id="attachment_1659784" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

Omar Farooq caters to stylish men. His approach to designing includes experimenting with silhouettes and fabric uncommon to traditional menswear.

This season, Omar chose to draw inspiration from the Japanese sequential art, popularly known as Manga. The collection had a very relaxed, summery vibe with jackets, tailored pants and several pieces of knitwear. Kudos to Omar for the excellent execution of the outfits on the ramp!

Mona Imran

Collection: Ode to Picasso

[caption id="attachment_1659803" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

Mona attempted to pay homage to Pablo Picasso through her work. Unfortunately, the collection did little to commemorate one of the greatest artists the world has ever seen.

Even though Mona incorporated Picasso’s work into her ensembles, the collection appeared dull and boring. Perhaps using the beautiful imagery in a more imaginative way, with better cuts and silhouettes that blend with their theme would have served more purpose than the out of place frills and chiffon overlays she had opted for. Sisters, Sarah Khan and Noor Khan walked the ramp for the designer.

Rang Rasiya

Collection: Saccharine

[caption id="attachment_1659781" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

The lawn brand, known for its feminine prints, presented Saccharine. But truth be told, it didn’t need to go so heavy on its designs as their beautiful and simpler patterned prints would have done better.

The fabrics used, ranged from jacquards, silk, chiffon, net and lawn in long, flowy summer jackets, asymmetrical hems and contemporary silhouettes. But the strength of the collection was its strong colour palette of peaches, vanilla yellows, lime and rose quartz.

So Kamal 

Collection: Boho Allure

[caption id="attachment_1659804" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

So Kamal showcased Boho Allure: a design travelogue fused with Persian tapestry, Indian patterns and some Moroccan essence. The collection came in rich jacquards with self-prints, silks and chiffon draperies; a fusion of boho and western styles.

Also, this season, So Kamal is taking the runway collection from the high street to stores, making it accessible to everyone.

KHAS

Collection: Premium Collection 2018

[caption id="attachment_1659783" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

Premium Collection 2018 is inspired by the bond between nature and modern lifestyles. The ensembles come in lawn, chiffon and silk with pearls and stone embellishments. But the menswear proved more of an attention-grabber as some of its waistcoats were super trendy and classic.

Rouge

Collection: Fluer Du Spring

[caption id="attachment_1659805" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: SHAFIQ MALIK/ EXPRESS[/caption]

Fluer Du Spring is a vibrant lawn collection including florals and geometrical patterns with embroideries on each item. Rouge experimented by mixing various colours and prints to create pieces which truly stood out.

One such piece was the orange and black sari that Sabeeka Imam wore. Another was the black/white striped sari with a long, tasseled cape and embroidered roses.

Have something to add to the story? Share it in the comments below.]]>
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			<title>PFDC Bridal Week brings on it’s A-game</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1533832/pfdc-bridal-week-brings-game</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1533832/pfdc-bridal-week-brings-game#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Oct 17 15:59:22 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[Entertainment Desk]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=1533832</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Sana Safinaz and Faiza Saqlain among others were a fashion force out there]]>
			</description>
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				<![CDATA[Sana Safinaz 

The evening bridal showcase was opened with a solo show by Sana Safinaz who showcased their bridal collection ‘The Last of the Night’ in collaboration with Mahin’s World Jewellery and it was simply an ethereal recreation of a dream. It is a modern take on natural beauty set against the inanimate and captures a surreal vision within an urban, modern framework.

[caption id="attachment_1533833" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

‘The Last of the Night’ boasts diverse designs in a variety of modified silhouettes including A-lines, slouchy sheaths, elaborate trumpets, front open shifts and ultra-dramatic back trails. It incorporated soft and dreamy hues including pastels such as powder blue, blush pinks, pale yellows with white silver and grey undertones and uses whimsical embellishments to make for an ultra-feminine yet starkly modern aesthetic.

T.Edit’s Fashion Week Survival Guide

The collection also featured classic, minimalistic and refined menswear designs in soft pastels hues and geometric patterns that reflect modern and chic aesthetics with a twist.

Saying ‘I do’ in style: The designers that woke the bride in me

Jeem by Hamza Bokhari

The day-2 of PFDC Bridal Week 2017 showcase was opened by Jeem by Hamza Bokhari with his bridal collection ‘Floating Poetry’ in collaboration with Grace Jewels and Pelle Capanna bags. The collection was inspired by the vivacious culture of Bengal and its deep relationship with textile. ‘Floating Poetry’ comprised fifteen designs in various lighter weight fabrics complemented by fabrics such as velvet, silk and brocade.

[caption id="attachment_1533834" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

The colour palette incorporated hues of gold and mint with accents of fuchsia pink and navy blue. The collection was all about structured tailoring details.

Sara Rohale Asghar

Sara Rohale Asghar’s bridal collection titled ‘The Royal Attire’ is a devouring journey through the elaborate lifestyle of the mystic Arabian world. The collection was fused with a persona of larger than life grandeur, painting festivity, merriness and celebration through heavily embellished rich Kim Khaabs, dewy tissue and flowy nets to capture the royal spirit of the collection.

[caption id="attachment_1533835" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

Ranging from dusky grey to earthy peaches and finally ending in the classic red bridal ranging from elaborate A-line silhouettes, Farshi lehangas, structured ball gown skirts to slightly tapered straight line shirts. Actress Mehwish Hayat participated in the designer’s showcase as a celebrity showstopper.

Ahmad Sultan

Ahmad Sultan’s ‘Secret Garden’ collection draws its inspiration from a beautiful coloured rose, Versilia. It  incorporates a blend of traditional embroideries with modern 3D work and tassels on pure fabrics such as chiffon, net, organza, kamkhab, kundun zair, silk and jamawar.

[caption id="attachment_1533839" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

The colour palette included soft hues mainly of grey. The silhouettes were customised for modern-day quirky bride. The collection consisted of 16 designs.

Faiza Saqlain

Faiza Saqlain showcased her bridal collection ‘Heer’ and it was synonymous with beauty and elegance, the collection is an ode to the iconic Heer, who is present in woman even today, but perhaps more courageous. The collection draws its inspiration from the transitional tale of Heer, who was forced into wedlock, to the modern-day one, who takes charge of her own life.

[caption id="attachment_1533838" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

It incorporated a variety of techniques including the evergreen dabka, mukesh, tilla and contemporary 3D embellishments and cutworks, throughout the collection. The Punjabi culture was evident in bright hues such as mustard, shades of blue and red.

In a first, hijab designer stuns New York Fashion Week

The collection boasts luxe fabrics such as tissue, organza and raw silk to represent the theme and transition of the women and their style over a period of time. Actress Hareem Farooq participated in the designer’s showcase as a celebrity showstopper.

Have something to add to the story? Share it in the comments below.]]>
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			<title>A fashion guide for every kind of bride - PLBW 2017 Day One</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1532723/fashion-guide-every-kind-bride-plbw-2017-day-one</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1532723/fashion-guide-every-kind-bride-plbw-2017-day-one#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Oct 17 11:16:53 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[Amber Liaqat]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=1532723</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Four designers showcase on opening day of bridal extravaganza, proving quality is better than quantity]]>
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				<![CDATA[Lahore is once again played host to the seventh PFDC L’Oreal Paris Bridal Week this weekend. The fashion extravaganza showcased the latest bridal couture collections by some of the most celebrated designers of Pakistan and as always, was an elaborate affair.

The country’s top modelling talent sashayed down the runway in glamorous ensembles, boasting an array of colours, from soothing pastels to strikingly vivid shades. Here is a quick low-down of everything that made an impression on day one.

Designer: Reama Malik

Collection: Gold

In a first, hijab designer stuns New York Fashion Week

Renowned jeweller Reama Malik opened the fashion event with her exquisite jewellery collection - crafted in collaboration with Wasim Khan. Both, Gold by Reama Malik and Wasim Khan are known for their opulent creations, which focus on sparkle and extravagance. It was therefore, no surprise that the two design houses joined forces and delivered a dream show.

[caption id="attachment_1532734" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

The assortment presented timeless, bespoke pieces for the discerning bride who wishes to stand out and not merge with the rest. The collection had a heirloom kind of feel: traditional and statement-making. Pure gold and diamond polki designs set the tone. Emeralds, rubies, tourmaline, pearls and diamonds were set in beautifully crafted pieces. Reama designed the gold items, reinventing the bygone eras.

[caption id="attachment_1532735" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

Dressed in a red raw silk ensemble, film star Resham walked the ramp as the showstopper, sporting a stunning gold belt, gold necklaces and maatha patti.

[caption id="attachment_1532736" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

Designer: Shamsha Hashwani

Collection: Kolpona - A Gateway to Nostalgia

Shamsha Hashwani showcased her bridal collection Kolpona: A Gateway to Nostalgia in collaboration with Sherezad Jewellery. Kolpona – meaning fantasy in Bengali – was an ode to Bengal’s rich culture, art, history and colonial influence. It comprised 16 bright pieces that incorporated fabrics such as jamawaar, organza, net, charmeuse silk and chiffon.

[caption id="attachment_1532740" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

The festive collection boasted intricately textural embroidery techniques like zardozi and hand-made organza petals highlighted with beadwork, pearls and 3D embroidery. The colour palette had shades of violet, plum, opal blue, ruby red and a hint of ivory. Overall, Kolpona was an eclectic mix of classic and modern silhouettes, including deep halter-cut cholis paired with lehngas, farshi ghararas and classic saris.

[caption id="attachment_1532739" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

Contemporary silhouettes included flowing kaftans, jumpsuits and floor-kissing dresses. Bol star Humaima Malick was the showstopper and she donned an ivory and gold heavily embellished long trail dress.

[caption id="attachment_1532741" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

Designer: Shiza Hassan

Collection: Aroos e Shehnai

Shiza Hassan in all her simmering glory most certainly made a distinctive mark. For many who consider anything 'desi' a bit outdated, Shiza's designs are a gentle nudge to change that perception.

This was Shiza Hassan’s second year showcasing her bridal collection on the ramp. Aroos e Shehnai- Chapter II was a depiction of contemporary couture with a Persian twist.

[caption id="attachment_1532743" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

Shiza utilised shades of mint green, ice blue and peaches with gold and crimson. The collection was a combination of the traditional and the modern, heavily embellished with glittering Swarovski crystals and kamdani on rich fabrics such as tissue and velvet.

[caption id="attachment_1532744" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

The patterns in Aroos e Shehnai were inspired from the days of the Persian era, paying tribute to their heritage. Embroidered trousers, lehngas and embellished dupattas were a dominant part of the collection.

[caption id="attachment_1532745" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

Designer: Ali Xeeshan Theatre Studio

Collection: Lasting Loyalty

Bollywood stars ooze glamour on the Lakmé Fashion Week ramp

The day one finale saw Ali Xeeshan Theatre Studio showcase a one-of-a-kind bridal collection called Lasting Loyalty. As expected, it was hypnotic to watch Ali bring unimaginable design techniques to the ramp each time. The life-size portraits of models that the designer calls his muses were brought onto the ramps and painted exactly how the models had been styled for the show. Some of them wore oversized spectacles to add a touch of gothic glamour.

[caption id="attachment_1532730" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

Lasting Loyalty was based on luxe fabrics such as organza and raw silk and featured tilla-work, pearls, naqshi, pasham, as well as various old-school techniques. The colour palette included ivory, warm yellow, deep ruby, bright pink and purple.  The collection entailed a variation of lehngas, skirts and dresses across the range of twenty-four designs. Film-maker and ace photographer Abdullah Haris also walked the ramp for Ali.

[caption id="attachment_1532732" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

Ali’s ensembles had gorgeous multi-coloured shimmering, heavily embellished skirts and lehngas paired with cholis and net dupattas that were basically the highlight of the collection which also included sharply cut menswear line.

[caption id="attachment_1532733" align="alignnone" width="625"] PHOTO: PUBLICITY[/caption]

Have something to add to the story? Share it in the comments below.]]>
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			<title>5 dapper things to look forward to at PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2017</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1380510/5-dapper-things-look-forward-pfdc-sunsilk-fashion-week-2017</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1380510/5-dapper-things-look-forward-pfdc-sunsilk-fashion-week-2017#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Apr 17 06:41:33 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[our.correspondent]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=1380510</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[The wait is almost over]]>
			</description>
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				<![CDATA[PFDC (Pakistan Fashion Design Council) is set to roll out its 10th edition PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week (PSFW). Here’s a lowdown of our pick of the top five things we are most looking forward to at the upcoming fashion extravaganza.

Stage set for PFDC fashion week

1. Two ramps, one venue

With an endeavour to enable a focused audience, the shows have been divided between two entirely separate show spaces and two independent ramps within the same venue in their respective time slots [no coinciding or simultaneous shows]. For the first time, the audience will be able to pick and choose the shows we go to and get to view fashion the way it should be – a tightly edited and curated fashion. Hats off to PFDC for taking this evolutionary step!

2. Bench seats

In line with international fashion weeks such as Paris Fashion Week and London Fashion Week, the 10th edition of PSFW will see an immaculate arrangement of tiered benches instead of those acrylic chairs every fashion week rolls out. Fashion show producers from around the world are opting for a minimalist approach with this simple yet chic style of seating and it’s heartening that we will be seeing the same here in Pakistan.

PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2015

3. High-street luxury prêt showcase

Yet another first for PSFW is the showcase of high-street luxury prêt collections by the most coveted brands such as Cross Stitch, Ethnic by Outfitters and Sapphire.

4. Diverse designer line up

OSFW is set to showcase dynamic collections over three distinct categories: Designer Luxury/Prêt, Lawn /Voile and High-Street Luxury Prêt. Master couturiers such as Adnan Pardesy, Ali Xeeshan, Amir Adnan, Asifa Nabeel, Faiza Saqlain, HSY, Misha Lakhani, Saira Shakira, Saira Rizwan, Sana Safinaz, Sania Maskatiya, Shiza Hassan, Tena Durrani and Zonia Anwar will showcase their collections. Sought-after brands such as Cross Stitch, Ethnic by Outfitters, Generation by Khadija Rahman, Khaadi Khaas, March by Ali Merch, Noor by Saadia Asad, Rang Rasiya, Republic by Omar Farooq, Sapphire and So Kamal will also display their offerings at the three-day event. The fashion show will also comprise the Bank Alfalah Rising Talent section – a platform for aspiring designers.

First day first show : Sunsilk Fashion Week

5. Solo and Group shows

The introduction of the new format breaks down the standard format of Fashion Week ‘Days’ into a set of solo and duo/trio shows with two alternative ramps, more select seating and international protocols for the press and audience members, as explained by Saad Ali, the CEO of the PFDC, earlier.

Kicking off in Lahore on April 13, here’s to hoping it’s a fashion-tastic week!

Have something to add to the story? Share it in the comments below. ]]>
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			<title>PFDC gears up to showcase the most revolutionary fashion week yet</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1335320/pfdc-gears-showcase-revolutionary-fashion-week-yet</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1335320/pfdc-gears-showcase-revolutionary-fashion-week-yet#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Wed, 22 Feb 17 07:18:58 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[Umnia Shahid]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=1335320</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Saad Ali and Kamiar Rokni feed us some fodder on what to expect at upcoming show]]>
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				<![CDATA[Speaking of fashion game-changers, a couple forerunners jump to mind. Americans rightfully boast of Tom Ford and Alexander Wang. Karl Lagerfeld was another catalyst for change in the European world and  undoubtedly, we have an army of them in the West. But what does the Pakistani fashion industry comprise? Do we have what it takes to ignite a revolution?

Now this is where the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) takes the spotlight. Distinguished for setting benchmarks in the fashion realm, PFDC is sparking a ‘style uprising’ by revising the upcoming fashion week’s platform format. Being a fashion editor, I’m anticipating a highly conceptual show, focusing on a theme of sorts — both in terms of disposition and ensembles.

FPW 2016: Winning hearts, yet again

With my expectations soaring, The Express Tribune spoke candidly with Saad Ali, the CEO of the PFDC and Kamiar Rokni, the official PFDC spokesperson to feed us some fodder on what to expect.

“At the PFDC, evolution is at our core. The ultimate aim for our fashion platforms has always been the business of fashion. Keeping that aim in mind and the furtherance of it, we are trying to tale the platform to the standards and protocols of international fashion weeks,” asserted Saad. And there’s more: “The introduction of the new format breaks down the standard format of Fashion Week ‘Days’ into a set of solo or duo shows with two alternative ramps, more select seating and international protocols for the press and audience members,” added Saad.

Apparently, the two ramps have been designed to facilitate two shows simultaneously, meaning when the show in Hall A ends, there will be a break so that designers and press have a chance to interact and the next show will then start in Hall B. Clarifying further, Saad explained, “With the new format in place we endeavour to enable a focused audience who is attending to see specific shows.”

As to whether the fashion fraternity is supportive of this upcoming revival, Saad asserted, “It is a time of transition certainly, but the designers have welcomed it wholeheartedly — all in the spirit of evolution and a positive step forward.”

Jogging away from the past concept of shows being merely spectacles of entertainment, there is now an international team on board to ensure an all-rounder expression of fashion. Saad explicated, “We are working collaboratively with our team of experts in Pakistan and our new UK-based team that excels in lighting, sound, set design etc. They bring with them international experience and exposure that we urgently needed.”

What stood out at Fashion Pakistan Week

Divulging data on the aesthetic side of things at the 10th show of PFDC Fashion Week, Kamiar alleged, “The artistic aim is to create a more modern, international feel. We hope to give the shows a more individual outlook — this creates diversity in the presentation, as both spaces have diverse aesthetics, which is never a bad thing!”

Well known for being a mentor for budding talent, Kamiar gave us his take on the Bank Alfalah Rising talent that’ll be showcased, and how it has reformed from what it used to be. “The main difference now with the Bank Alfalah-PFDC Rising Talent relationship is that the designers are presenting collections especially curated for the runway — as mentored carefully by Maria B and myself. Also, there’s been a rigorous selection process to hand-pick this new talent,” he assured. “The mentoring has been more intense this time around and we’re hopeful to achieve fantastic results,” Kamiar reiterated.

We hope too that we’re in for an avant-garde surprise!

Have something to add to the story? Share it in the comments below. ]]>
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			<title>Pakistan grasped importance of finding own voice: HSY</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1064912/pakistan-grasped-importance-of-finding-own-voice-hsy</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1064912/pakistan-grasped-importance-of-finding-own-voice-hsy#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sun, 13 Mar 16 08:53:26 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[ians]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=1064912</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[HSY presented cropped jackets, safari suits for men, tunics and boot-cut trousers]]>
			</description>
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				<![CDATA[Designer, choreographer and host Hassan Sheheryer Yaseen (HSY) believes that Pakistanis have grasped the importance of finding their own voice.

"I think that Pakistanis have now grasped the importance of not just fashion but finding their own voice," Hassan Sheheryer Yaseen told IANS at the ongoing Pakistan Fashion and Design Council's fashion week.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BC4r7gyyuBA/?taken-by=theworldofhsy

HSY accentuates craft for TBCW

About his collection Be Yourself which embraces the spirit of individuality, HSY said, "I want all the women to have same kind of attitude. Men, women regardless of who you are, you need to have your own identity and be strong enough to be able to do that."

"I wanted to do a collection that was a little bit of everything. You should be able to put things together and you have to define yourself the way you want to be because everyone is beautiful. No one is ought to follow a certain trend," the celebrated designer said.
Based in utilitarian and luxe fabrics including mercerized cottons, chiffons, organza and silks, HSY presented cropped jackets, safari suits for men, tunics and boot-cut trousers," he added.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BC3Nn-0yuCs/?taken-by=theworldofhsy

What’s next in HSY’s bag of tricks?

When asked to compare the fashion industries of India and Pakistan, HSY said that the two were same but different as well. "We are incredibly similar, but we are also incredibly different."

"There are socio-economic differences; our sense of colour, our sense of style is also very different. I respect what they (Indian designers) do but I also love what we do," HSY, who looked dapper at the third-day of the PFDC added.

"It is all about fashion individuality. What makes fashion incredibly strong is when you tap into what you have," he said.

However, the designer completely disagrees that the market of designer wear was less in Pakistan. "Our collection in stores and what people wear is not different. I don't believe that is true at all," he said.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BC3NgYiyuCU/?taken-by=theworldofhsy

"Fashion is not necessarily about dictating terms," the designer said.
Talking about his connection with people, HSY who also hosts a famous talk show Tonite with HSY said that he likes to connect with common people.

"Through fashion, through my talk shows, through my philanthropy, I connect with people. I work for education, cancer, eye hospitals. This way I constantly stay in touch with people," he said.

"Beyond that we are working with indigenous embroideries and crafts with over 20 different villages across the country where we have empowered women by giving them money not as a hand-out, but to help them set up business," he added.

"I want to bring that craft back in the country. Why should we go and get embroidery designs done with machines when we have the craftsmen," he questioned.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BC3NtKLSuC4/?taken-by=theworldofhsy

PSFW 2016: Upping the style ante 

HSY also said that the heritage culture needs to be brought back to light. Other countries do not have what Pakistan offers, and what other countries offer, Pakistan does not have that. "We need to focus on what we do because what will make us unique is our own individuality," he said.]]>
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			<title>Stage set for PFDC fashion week</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1061769/stage-set-for-pfdc-fashion-week</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/1061769/stage-set-for-pfdc-fashion-week#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Tue, 08 Mar 16 16:37:26 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[Mehek Saeed]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=1061769</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Four-day event to feature summer/spring collections of designer heavyweights]]>
			</description>
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				<![CDATA[Fashion frenzy is set to take Lahore by storm as PFDC (Pakistan Fashion Design Council) rolls out its ninth prêt-à-porter week, the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week (PSFW). Scheduled to be held from March 10 to March 13, the event will witness designer heavyweights come together. The first two days have been dedicated to luxury prêt, with the line trickling into the latter half of the third day. While high-street brands will feature on both the third and the fourth days, the event will be wrapped up by a textile/voile show.


Here’s a rundown of what’s in store for all four days.

Pakistani designers impress at London Fashion Week

Day 1
Sana Safinaz will open the show with their ‘Sugar Rush’ collection which we’re told will have a ‘sporty luxe’ aesthetic that the duo hopes will be “unapologetically youthful, urban and modern”. Feeha Jamshed will be showcasing Bob Squad after a two year gap; a collection inspired by the psychedelic culture of late 60s and early 70s. Faryal Aftab of Muse just returned from Europe where she and her partner Moeed Yousaf were working on their upcoming shoes and accessories line. Talking to The Express Tribune, Aftab says, “My inspiration was Milan ... the city was electrifying. The night was young and beautiful. The music was on repeat. The night was love.” Her collection is titled ‘#LastNight’. Furthermore, ‘Sublime’ by Sara Shahid, will also be showcased after a long break; she has designed a collection inspired by a soft palette of pastels and whites titled, ‘Exhale’. For her collection ‘Moonlit Sahara’, Maria B’s has drawn inspiration from sandstone gray to vintage Russian jewellery and even roses in the moonlight.
Young designers like Unza Khalid, Hira Ali, Saiqa Raheem and Ghulam Dastgir will also get a chance to take to the ramp.

Day 2
Nomi Ansari will kick off the second day on a colourful high with ‘Joyride’ which he describes as “a vibrant reflection of what is happening around us”. We expect to see his signature colour riot in the form of a retro and fun collection. Ali Xeeshan will show ‘Voodoo’ which is his sartorial depiction of delirium, a journey from the lowest level of darkness to the highest point of joy. ‘Décorer’ by Sania Maskatiya is set to be a showcase of geometrics paying homage to the angular elegance of the Art Deco movement. This will be a fresh change from her collection of solids from the previous year. Mahgul is doing a full show for the first time and will launch ‘Oro’, her ready-to-wear line. “I’ve created an imaginary clan of women who live along River Indus. Their leader is called Oro,” she says. Mahgul has designed a casual lounge and sportswear line and we are especially looking forward to her collaboration with the eclectic jewellery designer, Zohra Rahman. While Nickie Nina will show ‘Flechazo’ (love at first sight) inspired by the rich culture of Spanish Metadoras, Karma Pink will unveil a collection titled ‘Studio 54’ that is inspired by a disco party.
Ali Xeeshan responds to creative concept gone awry

Day 3
Riding high on the launch of his megastore, Shamoon Sultan will show ‘Translucent’ under the Khaadi Khaas banner. The House of Kamiar Rokni will showcase their Fashion Scout, London collection along with a few more pieces. The collection was a take on separates using modern cuts with traditional techniques. Zonia Anwaar will show ‘Kievan’, inspired by the culture of the medieval Kievan Rus era. Saira Shakira are showing ‘Ysatis’ which is a journey of breaking free of stereotypes through clothing. Zara Shahjahan will show ‘The Sartorialist’, inspired by the famous street style photographer Scott Schuman, Kashmiri embroidery and the oversized phiran. Hassan Sheheryar Yasin will be showcasing his ‘Be Yourself’ collection inspired by the nonagenarian Iris Apfel; a woman with a distinct and eclectic fashion sense. High street brands including Hang Ten, DSS, Umar Iftikhar and Denizen will also be showcasing in the early evening.
Day 4
Deepak Perwani’s showcase is called the return of ‘D Philosophy’ which will start the closing day of the show. He will be followed by Al-Karam, Khas, Warda Prints, Ittehad Textile Mills, ‘Harmony’ by Hang Ten and Gul Ahmed. MBM, Shirin Hassan, Sobia Nazir and ‘HSY Limited’ will also be on show. Made in collaboration with Kashf Foundation, ‘HSY Limited’ will be styled in a military inspired way and displayed differently than it was at the foundation’s anniversary celebration. 
Published in The Express Tribune, March 9th, 2016.

Like Life &amp; Style on Facebook, follow @ETLifeandStyle on Twitter for the latest in fashion, gossip and entertainment.]]>
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			<title>Designer outlets reopen after PRA crackdown</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/952412/designer-outlets-reopen-after-pra-crackdown</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/952412/designer-outlets-reopen-after-pra-crackdown#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Mon, 07 Sep 15 16:34:29 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[our.correspondent]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=952412</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[PFDC say they had been in discussions with PRA to resolve matter when their stores in Lahore were 'unethically'...]]>
			</description>
			<content:encoded>
				<![CDATA[A host of designer outlets that were closed in Lahore, following a raid by the Punjab Revenue Authority (PRA) last week, have opened after the initial shutdown.

Umair Tabani of Sania Maskatiya revealed that their shop is now open for business. “We’re paying taxes on goods for all the cities we have outlets in,” Tabani told The Express Tribune. “The Government of Punjab has classified our ‘goods’ sales as service sales. We’re in the process of coming to a common ground with the PRA, where both parties are satisfied and our shop remains open.”

The outlet of Muse, another well-known brand from Lahore, remained closed till the filing of this report on Monday, but its owner is optimistic that the shop will reopen soon.“We took this matter to court and the verdict was in our favour. I took this route because we’re already registered with the FBR and pay taxes for the goods we offer, as opposed to services,” Mooed Yusuf of Muse shared.

Read: Fashion design outlets sealed for non-payment of taxes

Shirin Hassan’s outlet is still closed and she remains adamant that the PRA is asking for something  she deems ‘unreasonable’. “They’re asking for something very unreasonable and we’re not willing to give in to it. We don’t provide a service to any other company and would rather have the shop sealed for a few days than give in to something unjust,” said Hasan, whose legal team is looking into the matter on her behalf.

Stores of Zara Shahjahan, Ammar Belal and Nida Azwer have also reopened. The Pakistan Fashion Design Council was expected to release a joint statement on behalf of the designers later on Monday.

PFDC says shops sealed unethically

The PFDC, a united body for fashion retailers across Pakistan, said on Monday that they had been in discussions with the PRA to resolve the matter when their stores in Lahore were unethically sealed.

The Pakistan Fashion Design Council said that it had started the dialogues with the Punjab Revenue Authority (PRA) well before the sealing of the designer shops.

The council also said in a statement shared with The Express Tribune that it has been working in collaboration with a number of fashion retailers, designers with a team of seasoned tax lawyers and chartered accountants to formally address the issues relating to the tax.

Published in The Express Tribune, September 8th,  2015.

Like Life &amp; Style on Facebook, follow @ETLifeandStyle on Twitter for the latest in fashion, gossip and entertainment.

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			<title>PFDC announces PLBW 2015</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/923356/pfdc-announces-plbw-2015</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/923356/pfdc-announces-plbw-2015#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Mon, 20 Jul 15 18:10:26 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[our.correspondent]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[Four-day event to feature 17 bridal designers from September 15 to 18]]>
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				<![CDATA[Bridal season is just around the corner. The Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) recently announced the fifth instalment of L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week 2015, slated to take place from September 15 to 18 in Lahore, according to a press release.

In hopes of bringing forth a mix of traditional and contemporary bridal designs, and trending jewellery and make-up choices, the fashion showcase will be back with a revamped line-up spanning four days. This season, the event will feature 17 bridal designers, with evening jewellery fashion showcases for two days, and introducing an all-day pre-show exhibition space for added luxury brands and retailers. The event will also include a ‘Rising Talent’ section.

The event will be styled by the creative team at Nabila and NGents, with Hassan Sheheryar Yasin helming the choreography. The council will announce details regarding the list of participating designers, among other things, in August.

PLBW 2014 featured a myriad of trends and colours. From bridal wear to formal couture, the PLBW runway featured creations by designer heavyweights, such as Fahad Hussayn, Sania Maskatiya and Nomi Ansari. The Express Tribune had earlier reported that it was a great mix of old and new, featuring big names from both Karachi and Lahore, but there are some notable exceptions.

Élan was missing from the PFDC line-up for the first time ever, which left the fashion week significantly poorer. But Élan wasn’t the only major absentee. Kamiar Rokni, who wowed with his Oriental collection the year before, didn’t showcasing his collection either. 

Published in The Express Tribune, July 21st,  2015.

Like Life &amp; Style on Facebook, follow @ETLifeandStyle on Twitter for the latest in fashion, gossip and entertainment.]]>
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			<title>Will it be FPC or PFDC for Amir Adnan?</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/549654/will-it-be-fpc-or-pfdc-for-amir-adnan</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/549654/will-it-be-fpc-or-pfdc-for-amir-adnan#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Wed, 15 May 13 15:50:34 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[saadia.qamar]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=549654</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[I am a part of this industry and I know the business of fashion, says Amir Adnan.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Whatever happens in the fashion industry stays in the fashion industry. The invisible fence around this world protects any information from leaking out. But this time around, it seems like they’ve let their guard down. 

Founder member of Fashion Pakistan Council (FPC) Amir Adnan has decided to switch parties (or be a part of two?); rumours about him joining the board of Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) have been making the rounds. The Express Tribune gets to the bottom of it and discovers the truth.




It’s official. Amir Adnan has his feet in two ships. What’s unclear is whether he will juggle the two competing parties or pick one over the other. The designer’s colleagues reveal that he hasn’t officially resigned from FPC — everyone is in a state of turmoil. What is going on?

“I am a part of this industry and I know the business of fashion. So why can’t I support both councils?” asks Adnan defensively. “FPC and PFDC are two separate entities and are not competing against one another.” It’s essential that he leaves one party before joining the other, but Adnan remains a little clueless to the notion. “I don’t know the exact date of when the FPC post [currently holds] expires, but it should be round about the same time I take charge of the new one.”

Adnan reveals that no official paperwork has been done regarding his new position at PFDC. “Yes, I have become a board member at PFDC but for now, it’s all verbal. I haven’t been offered a designation [specifically],” he explains the current scenario. “Nothing is official until and unless they elect me into becoming a board member.”

CEO of PFDC Saad Ali shed some light on the subject. “I am not supposed to disclose anything about it yet but yes, Amir Adnan has signed the entry form and is a now corporate board member at PFDC,” he reveals, adding, “I am sure he has resigned from his post [at FPC]. It’s official that he is a member of PFDC now.”

There are two very interesting sides to this story. Chairperson FPC Shamaeel Ansari shares another set of facts starting with the most significant one: Adnan hasn’t resigned from FPC nor has he informed them. “As a professional, he should have informed one council of his decision and then joined the other; and it should have been in that exact order,” she says. “We can’t dictate [our opinions] on anyone. But I thought he was professional and that he would take the professional path.”

She further elaborates on the formal process of resignation, which she feels Adnan should have followed. “FPC is a registered company under Section 42 and any board member who wants to resign, has to go through a process of signing [specific] papers and needs to submit them to the Securities and Exchange Commission of Pakistan [SECP],” she says.

Legal expert Zara Siddiqui talks about the implications. “There are two primary things which need to be taken into account. One, you cannot create a monopoly and second, this practice [of holding two positions simultaneously] is unethical,” she says. “Since these are two competing bodies, Adnan needs to understand that he has to step down from one.” She feels there are certain confidentiality and non-disclosure issues which both councils maintain and thus, “It’s unfair as these issues will get juxtaposed in the open.”

Published in The Express Tribune, May 16th, 2013. 

Like Life &amp; Style on Facebook for the latest in fashion, gossip and entertainment.]]>
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			<title>New designers steal limelight at finale</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/542535/new-designers-steal-limelight-at-finale</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/542535/new-designers-steal-limelight-at-finale#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Tue, 30 Apr 13 15:48:24 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[momina.sibtain]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category><category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=542535</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Funky fashion and dramatic designs make the show worth watching.]]>
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				<![CDATA[The final day at Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) Sunsilk Fashion Week was packed with excitement as far as drama went. When it came to the business of fashion, the first act presented far better collections than the second act. Surprisingly, this year the emerging talent collection stole the show with their fun, creative and vibrant collections. The top three trends for the season will have to be monochromatic tones, lime green and everything striped.


Faiza Samee



Faiza Samee presented a collection of print-on-print. Her vibrant prints opened the first act of the finale with flared pants and gypsy tops. Ranging from monochromatic pants paired with funky prints, Samee made it all work. She is most definitely better at luxury prêt and bridals. Faiza’s prêt line is wearable and fun which most Pakistanis can relate to — not something we can say for other designers.

Maheen Karim



This designer opened her Paradise collection with a stunning monochromatic web-like printed dress on Fayeza Ansari. Maheen Karim’s infusion of brown tones into the monochrome added to the look and set her apart. She focused more on her swirly Roberto Cavalli-like prints and cuts. Only she could merge all the warm colour tones into one outfit and make it work. However, her embellishments need more structure and time. The collection overall was cohesive, with the elimination of the embellishments which weren’t as exciting as one would have expected from Karim.

ZONG promotes new talent



This segment takes the cake for creativity and structured designs. First up Mahgul for Nasreen Sheikh presented her Archival collection based on the images from the civil and military gazette. Appliquéd images on pants and sheer organza tops, the collection was monochromatic and made a statement. This no-fuss collection was simple and yet made the impact on the ramp that any collection needs to make.

Arooj Ahmed was another shining star in this segment with her funky prints. The colour palettes in the collection majorly consist of blues and oranges, with other vibrant shades used to accentuate the palette. Ahmed has played with the basic silhouettes by cut lines to make them more altered and inimitable, giving a contemporary look to nature’s beauty. Ruffled tops with almost a fan-like effect added drama to the collection and that is what one likes to see from an emerging young designer.

Mohsin Ali presented his Sustainable Fashion collection. The aesthetic inspiration for the women’s wear collection is drawn from traditional basket weaving which was reflected in the silhouettes and textures of the garments. He played around with woven fabric in white and grey but added character with his cane accessories. From the shoes to head gear, his collection was all about making a statement with the accessories.

Daniyal Mubarik’s collection titled Global Culture took inspiration from different cultures around the world and merged it together. Outfits with British notch collars blended with traditional Japanese kimonos and Indian saris mixed with Arabic turbans and African drapes among many others. Indeed, the depiction of different cultural motifs is demonstrative of the yin-yang philosophy and shows how seemingly contrary elements can exist in artistic harmony.

Khaadi Khaas



The second act opened with Khaadi Khaas’s tribal-inspired collection. While the collection had some great elements along with funky internal linings, there were some pieces that had the typical Khaadi aesthetic. The Afghan inspired jewellery deserved a shout out. Metallic belts and shoes were all the rave. While they kept up with the monochromatic trend, Khaadi Khaas incorporated blue accents merged with maroon in their collection.

Muse



Each year it seems as if Muse uses the same techniques to create new motifs. And while we all love recurring trends, there comes a time when these trends become redundant. Even though Muse uses top quality fabric, their latest collection European Palaces didn’t do any wonders on the ramp. The rosette filled blouses were done three years ago and now they have just become boring to see. With so much potential, Muse needs to step away from the yawn-factor and try something new and different.

Wardah Saleem



Wardah Saleem colour blocked her monochromatic aesthetic with vibrant prints. In her collection, she uses flamboyant colours like yellow and turquoise while infusing appliqué accents. However, the most interesting parts of Saleem’s collection were accessories and shoes. Multi-coloured accessories with Charlotte Olympia’s cobweb patterns on the shoes. It is fun to see how designers are now expanding their range into accessories and shoes to complement the look of their collection. From jelly sandals to formal shoes, Saleem had it all.

Ali Xeeshan



This designer closed the first act with his all white collection. Sometimes it is important to understand the extravagance that can be created with just one colour makes the impact one wants. What worked for Ali Xeeshan, apart from the drama, were individual pieces from the collection. The embroideries carried on from his bridal week collection, with a similar aesthetic. His over-the-top style might not be everyone’s cup of tea but it is undeniable that Xeeshan knows how to put up a great show.

HSY



PSFW came to an end with HSY’s dramatic collection. HSY knows how to rock an event. Male models walked out in I Love HSY T-shirts and the ladies in shirts with his signature emblem emblazoned on them. It was not the collection of the evening but HSY created drama with crushed chiffon, embroidered pants and Patiala shalwar-inspired jumpsuits. Male models came out carrying oversized travel bags that added to the collection.

Published in The Express Tribune, May 1st, 2013.                        

Like Life &amp; Style on Facebook for the latest in fashion, gossip and entertainment.]]>
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			<title>PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week Day Two: Outshines Day One</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/279644/pfdc-sunsilk-fashion-week-day-two-outshines-day-one</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/279644/pfdc-sunsilk-fashion-week-day-two-outshines-day-one#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sat, 22 Oct 11 15:13:46 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=279644</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Sania Maskatiya, Mohsin Ali  and newbie Irfan Ali reach new levels of wow.]]>
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				<![CDATA[&nbsp;

Sous Marine

After a beautiful traditional showcase at the previous fashion week, Nikki Nina’s aquatic collection nosedived this time around. Poorly structured, ill-fitted and carrying large ungainly stains, the collection was a sad testimony to the fact that the duo needs to get their creative apprentice Mohsin Ali back. Screen prints depicting life underwater was too literal an interpretation of the marine theme and sheer tops worn over tank tops and short shift dresses serenading as kameezes with slits over miniskirts, made for a haphazard presentation. They did, however, bring hemlines to a medium length, so kudos for that. Yet, the fact that the duo didn’t adorn their own collection for the finale walk was hint enough that they too felt this was a showcase that was just not good enough.

Hala-lujah

There was a pungent stench of deja vu emanating from Zainab Sajid’s collection that was reminiscent of Zaheer Abbas’s techniques of pleating and drapes with an addition of hefty tassles, and Nida Azwer’s civilisation collection with her use of Hala pottery motifs. It was laudable that she experimented towards pret given her a strong focus on bridals and although this is a start, one had hoped that she would have been more innovative and improved on her choice of fabric.

Drawing the line

A talent that never disappoints, Mohsin Ali’s show made a social comment with a symbolic opening of models drenched in black, making way for a lone, white-clad figure to signify hope emerging from a thick crowd of despondency. Although part of the collection was devoted to depicting darker times, the black in his ensembles coalesced merrily with bursts of colour in tie-dye and screen prints for a unique amalgamation. This had to be Ali’s most commercial collection, which he created deftly without losing his signature desi kitsch. Steering away from subaltern fabrics, Ali played with hynotising stripes in colour blocks and used taweez lockets as accents for a brilliantly constructed awami collection.

Suzani 

FnkAsia takes off from their wonderfully crafted ‘Sea Merchants’ collection to create a brooding winter look with their latest offering, Suzani. Although it is the season appropriate to be presenting a winter line, the fact that the fashion week was largely fixated on Spring/Summer, made Fnk Asia’s collection feel out of place. Also, while the basic motifs and general theme stays the same, Huma Adnan makes a sincere effort to create an array of statement jackets in velvet and linen for the winter. While the overall effect of Suzani wasn’t as fun and striking as her previous showcase, Adnan’s attention to detail in styling with complementary accessories like necklaces used as head bands and elf-like shoes made for an interesting presentation.

The Dilkash Collection

In her first solo exhibit, Sania Maskatiya showed her true mettle as a designer, who is urbane and classy and knows how to dress the modern Pakistani woman. Sleek and pristine in her cuts, much like Lahore’s Sara Shahid, Maskatiya proved, in this collection of block prints, balloon dresses, jumpsuits and round-hemmed chic kameezes, that she knows how to make women of her generation swoon. Impeccable draping and immaculately crafted silhouettes, with just the right amount of detailing using copper coins, Maskatiya proved that she knew where to show restrain and where to create effect.

Marachay

Newbie Irfan Ali’s 3D construction of a vibrant technicolour rural Punjab on fabric made for a fine debut if only it wasn’t so much like Mohsin Ali’s interpretation of the same theme. The 3D pockets with Rilli and blossom motifs looked too familiar in their use on Ali’s fanciful dresses, but when the same patterns were used on kimono-esque kaftans and kurtas, Ali managed to make them his own. One would like to see how this young scion manages to take a new dimension on rural heritage and how far he takes flight in the fashion scene.

Published in The Express Tribune, October 23rd, 2011.

For more pictures from the event, see slideshow here.]]>
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			<title>PFDC Day One sets the fashion wheel in motion</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/278957/pfdc-day-one-sets-the-fashion-wheel-in-motion</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/278957/pfdc-day-one-sets-the-fashion-wheel-in-motion#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Fri, 21 Oct 11 18:42:17 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=278957</guid>
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				<![CDATA[Day one was a mixed bag with some designers showing creativity, while others playing safe.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Pakistan Fashion Week opens with a burst of cuts, colours and a tinge of predictability.

Mast Patang

Akif Mahmood gained acclaim for bringing folk heritage onto the ramp and in the three seasons that he has shown so far, he stays true to that passion of creating themed collections focused on Pakistan’s cultural roots.  From a debut with his Kailash collection, Mahmood now took us to the famed rooftops in Lahore where kite festivals are held annually to commemorate the coming of spring. Haveli and kite motifs dominated a rather predictable collection of trench coats and open sherwani cover ups. It’s all well to work with themes, but it’s time Mahmood moved beyond and demonstrated some dexterity with his cuts and silhouettes to quench our doubts that he just might be a one-hit wonder.

Aurora Luminescence — The Glowing Murk

Debutante Zonia Anwaar, a recipient of the Lux Style Awards (LSA) academic scholarship, showcased a collection that played on waves and structured ruffles in shades of aqua and purple. A tad bit monotonous and ill-fitted, with the focus on detailing being the mushrooming troughs and crests, the showcase did not reveal the designer streak Anwaar is expected to display.

Neo Natives

Maria B’s Pocahontas-inspired collection of flared bottoms, jumpsuits and bubble tops — in asymmetrical cuts in colour blocks of earthy tones, scarlets and blues — was definitely her most pret-satisfying offering to date. The prints drew motifs from ancient cultures, from the Aztec to Persia, to lend the collection a cosmopolitan feel. Replete with hemp shoes and bags, the collection was a shout-out to the 1970s, with the sleek groovy look of long hair and braided headbands that was fun, supremely comfortable and ‘campus’ cool. This was a collection that will certainly heat up college grounds this summer.

Myth

Zaheer Abbas stayed true to his Issey Miyake-esque pleating aesthetic, which delved into elegant Grecian togas that sashayed on the catwalk with fragility. It was an immaculate collection with minimal details (dabka this time around, instead of the tiny bells that Abbas used previously) in a colour palette ranging from cream to burnt orange.

Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design

Hoodies, boxed broad ensembles and futuristic pieces characterised the students’ show, just like it does each year at the PIFD graduation. As always, the accessories made more of a mark than the clothes themselves, which lacked the structure and seamless fit that one expects from a designer. Yet as expected, it was the most vibrant show of the day with creative choreography (models were seen parading as puppets) and styling.

Foliaceous

Nida Azwer did jungle fever with a twist. Instead of a call to the animal kingdom, this was a call to the jungle itself — to the barks and foliage, whose textures she explored with cut-out fabric juxtaposed with flowy silk, leafy screen prints. Azwer used her signature gold embossing and her typical broad borders on the angharkhas, which she brought back in vogue from her very first showing.  Overall, the designer’s collection was very safe and commercial, and is more fit for the racks than the ramp.

Published in The Express Tribune, October 22nd, 2011.

A slideshow of pictures from day one can be viewed here.]]>
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			<title>Fashion Pakistan Council: Mixing business with fashion</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/278260/fashion-pakistan-council-mixing-business-with-fashion</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/278260/fashion-pakistan-council-mixing-business-with-fashion#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Thu, 20 Oct 11 16:12:55 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[saadia.qamar]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[FPC displays its designers’ collection at a stall set up at TDAP expo.]]>
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				<![CDATA[It was indeed quite a surprise when Karachi’s Fashion Pakistan Council (FPC) set up a stall at the Trade and Development Authority of Pakistan (TDAP) 6th Expo Pakistan, whilst TDAP has collaborated with Lahore’s Pakistan Fashion and Design Council (PFDC) to bring forth PFDC Fashion Week, which kicked off on October 20.


Just as Pakistan is multicultural with diverse ethnicities, there are various fashion councils that have sprung up in the recent past. From a fashionistas point of view, however, only two hold some legitimacy in the foreground, the PFDC and the FPC.

Fashion designer and CEO of FPC, Maheen Khan, who was present at the event, said, “The government is often initiating the marriage between the designers and textile mills. But setting up a stall has a lot to do with the fact that we need to learn about export marketing and the right product and processing.” Khan also added that, “If designers are given such platforms we will learn enough about the local trade fair so that when we represent Pakistan at an international event abroad, it won’t be a disaster.”

At the stall FPC showcased Maheen Khan’s line called Gulabo, Deepak Perwani’s casual line and accessory designer Mahin Husain’s handbags, amongst others, for the sake of export, which in Khan’s word should be more like, “a learning experience, rather than the concept of selling their product.”

Deepak Perwani’s Operation Manager Noreen Mujtaba revealed that they were placed at a TDAP sponsored event because, “Neighbouring countries like China and India are well exposed in the buyer’s market and foreigners need to know that Pakistan too has a good number of creative designers.”

When asked about the price tag of Deepak Perwani’s casual kurtis and handmade bags, Mujtaba said, “Export prices for international buyers are placed at lower bottom by our brand.” Mujtaba did not quote an actual price of the designer wear, nor did she place a price tag on the displayed products.

Accessory designer and FPC member Mahin Husain said, “This platform is a stepping stone for us. I have always believed that the tag ‘Made in Pakistan’ should come forward and hence I have deliberately kept the prices cheap and affordable for my leather hand bags. We plan to catch the buyer’s attention.”

Published in The Express Tribune, October 21st, 2011. ]]>
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			<title>Fashion collection: Mohsin Ali’s Hazara Heritage</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/267506/fashion-collection-mohsin-ali%e2%80%99s-hazara-heritage</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/267506/fashion-collection-mohsin-ali%e2%80%99s-hazara-heritage#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Wed, 05 Oct 11 15:52:12 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=267506</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Fashion designer claims he is ‘designing for a cause’.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Mohsin Ali’s eclectic, brooding collection, which dexterously combined elements of the subaltern Hazara culture and married it to their vagabond state, made fashion insiders giddy with a new prospect of a creative maverick in their midst and delighted audiences with its unique desi bohemian aesthetic. 


Even Britain’s greatest fashion authority, Hilary Alexander couldn’t resist the allure of his designs, and Parisian fashion consultant Alexandra Senes has been sporting Ali’s pieces in the world’s most chic city. What makes Ali’s designs so exciting is his manic sense of colour and fabric draped with sincerity of wanting to narrate the tales and toils of his people.

Designing for a cause

“I am redefining what people had left of their heritage,” he speaks, warm and aglow with passion. “Life is in such a state of flux that people are compelled to forget the old and embrace the new. Hence, I want to bring that organic feel back.” Even a cursory glance at Ali’s collections thus far, denotes that it is massively culled from the bazaars in Quetta and the razai fabrics and patterns that have been an integral part in the childhood of many in Pakistan.

Creative epiphany

It’s this distinctive interpretation of culture that makes Ali’s work stand out to the extent that every showing ensures acclaim from fashionistas and prime real estate in the country’s most fashion forward publication. Yet, the humble green-eyed-boy says, “You have to be a personality to carry off these clothes. It’s the person who brings it alive.” And that’s for sure, as your average begum cannot carry off a Mohsin Ali creation. A vision and a maddening sense of fashion is required to be able to carry his ensembles off. Although he has recently forayed into making regular shalwar kameezes, they too have an inimitable desi funk.

Although, by and large, his design sense is Quetta and Hazara-centric, Ali admits that he never fit in there. “I’ve lived a sheltered life in Quetta amongst simple people with simple ambitions, and felt quite displaced there. In Lahore, I fit like a glove.” A graduate of the Pearl Insitute of Fashion in Quetta, Ali narrates jokingly how his teachers and peers would be astounded by his work and would never believe it was his own. Eventually a friend pushed him to apply to Lahore’s Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design and from there on, from his shining debut at the graduation show; there has been no looking back.

Problems

The controversy over his Lux Style Award nomination that got cancelled close to the event has left him feeling bitter. “I respect the process, but not the results. I don’t think I will apply for any nominations anymore,” says Ali and then closes the case by adding, “You are your best judge and your biggest critic.”

Home is where the heart is

With the recent brutality meted out to the Hazara community, Ali’s personal story takes on a new and pivotal role; interestingly, his father is a religious scholar who runs an all-girls school in the region. “My father’s always said and insisted on one thing: if you want to do something, then you must do it extremely well and be very sure about it. And just to please him, I work as hard as I possibly can.”

Perhaps it is this unconventional thought process of his father that led to his own avant-garde fashion sense.  “He had no hang-ups about me pursuing something as unconventional as fashion designing, despite the fact that he wanted me to be a doctor,” says the young eccentric designer.
Ali’s next collection at the upcoming PFDC Sunsilk fashion week is also an ode to Quetta, reaped in from the blasts that shook the city on Eidul Fitr.
Published in The Express Tribune, October 6th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Fashion Week 2012: Karachi gears up for fashion fest</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/263200/fashion-week-2012-karachi-gears-up-for-fashion-fest</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/263200/fashion-week-2012-karachi-gears-up-for-fashion-fest#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Thu, 29 Sep 11 15:45:22 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[express]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=263200</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[The event will feature over 24 designers including both aspiring and established designers.]]>
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				<![CDATA[The Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) and Sunsilk have announced the next PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week, Spring/Summer (S/S) 2012, scheduled to take place in the metropolitan city of Karachi this October. A press release from the executive committee of the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week has declared the dates of the four-day event starting from October 20. The event will feature over 24 designers including both aspiring and established designers.


The designers chosen will be selected on the basis of their design, prowess and most importantly, their ability to produce ensembles for international retail. PFDC and Sunsilk have  taken a collaborative step to show the world that despite the unstable socio-political situation, Pakistanis can and will continue to nurture and promote their creative heritage.

“We endeavour to constantly further our vision of institutionalising the business of fashion,” said Sehyr Saigol, Chairperson of the Executive Committee of PFDC. She further added, “In order to grow towards the commercialisation of Pakistan’s fashion industry we must formalise the processes which includes regular and seasonal showcases, streamlining established brands and nurturing newer talents, providing retail avenues.”

PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week S/S 2012 will be staged at one main runway venue and will also include daily exhibitions of collections showcased, at the same venue. The event will be produced by Frieha Altaf of Catwalk Productions, styled by Sabs, The Salon for Women and Khawar Riaz for Men.

The October 20-23 event will include Adnan Pardesy, Hassan Sheheryar Yasin (HSY), Khaadi, Muse, Nickie Nina, The House of Kamiar Rokni and Zaheer Abbas, who have been selected through their shows on the PFDC Sunsilk runway at Pret-a-Porter Feminin in Paris.

In the PFDC event held in March-April, Pardesy gave denim a new dimension and life previously unknown in fashion. Through his collection, Pardesy proved his mettle as a designer who has command over his craft and created his most wearable collection to date. Meanwhile, HSY’s incorporation of phulkari on the sherwani as well as traditional bolero on a sequined pop orange jump suit stood out in the finale. Another designer who carved her niche was Maheen Kardar, who utilised the ramp to create the perfect childhood dream. As a celebration of Kardar’s growth as a mother alongside the development of her brand Karma, the presentation began in the most endearing manner with socialites and fashionable mothers and their little girls walking the ramp hand in hand with flowers in their hair. What really stood out was the outfit with denim encrusted with crystal princess motifs and floral print pockets.

Hence, with high standards set, expectations for the coming fashion week are also on the rise. However, we are yet to see who will shine in the upcoming event of glitz and glamour.

Published in The Express Tribune, September 30th,  2011.]]>
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			<title>Enchanted Palace: Stories from the past</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/258012/enchanted-palace-stories-from-the-past</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/258012/enchanted-palace-stories-from-the-past#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Thu, 22 Sep 11 16:01:45 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[rayan.khan]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=258012</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Designer Omar Mansoor on his inspiration for the London Fashion Week.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Given Pakistan’s current reputation, it’s always a relief when the country produces ambassadors of an image that goes beyond what is immediately broadcasted to the global media. These are our men and women of the arts, the creative minds who send waves all across the world.


Twenty-nine-year-old Omar Mansoor belongs to this select coterie of Pakistanis abroad. Operating from London, he carved a place for himself in Europe’s fashion scene — recently concluding his fifth London Fashion Week (LFW). Some other designers he shared the runway space with included international names like John Rocha, PPQ and Felder Felder.

Admiring theatricality, Mansoor often opts for strong themes (as suggested by previous collections) in homage to British theatre and John Milton’s epic “Paradise Lost”. Sticking with his penchant for local interest and history, Mansoor pulled out the big guns for LFW Spring/Summer 2012 with his ‘Enchanted Palace’ line that used rosepink tones to communicate the rebelliousness of Princess Charlotte and black for the tragedies of Queen Mary II, who suffered 14 miscarriages. However, despite that, nothing from Mansoor’s collection can be written off as ‘antiquated’. He certainly gets props for relevance: his line was in total accordance with the loose silhouettes and rosepink, ivory and black palettes that dominated LFW this year.

In an interview with The Express Tribune, the designer not only discusses his experience at the LFW, but also shares his opinion on the Pakistani fashion scene.

This has been your fifth LFW, how was it this time around? Was there any drama/backstage politics? 

The drama is something which we live with during the fashion week (laughs). No, no major drama this year. The models were very professional and did their best to carry the clothes well.

Tell us about working with that specific theme? 

Communicating the princess and queen was a challenge. Luckily I got special support from Historic Royal Palaces  and their curators helped me throughout my visits to collect research on the history of each character and the props related to them. This helped me sense the aura of these characters, which trickled into the collection’s pieces.

Your collection boasted a technical aspect as well, in terms of cut, style, fabric and embellishments. What can we expect from this collection?

The silhouette is very feminine and elegant. I worked with satin and silk chiffon for structure and flow. I haven’t worked with heavy embellishments much — except for the showstopper.

Following the show, what are the sales like? How has the response been?

The sales came out way better than expected, with buyers from the Middle East to Bermuda placing orders. And the reviews were amazing.

What are your thoughts on Pakistani designers foraying into the international fashion scene? Do you see Pakistan coming out as a strong competitor in western markets?

I think Maheen Khan, Umar Sayeed and Parwani are known for their signature styles — they’re really opening doors. In terms of western wear, I witnessed Iman Ahmed and Sadaf Malaterre’s collections at the PFDC Fashion Week, which could sell easily at high-end stores. So yes, I think the country is capable of impressing when it comes to making western wear.

 

Published in The Express Tribune, September 23rd, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Dressing up for the winter</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/250101/dressing-up-for-the-winter</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/250101/dressing-up-for-the-winter#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sun, 11 Sep 11 16:07:51 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[rayan.khan]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=250101</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[A style guide for men who want to keep trendy in the not-so-far-off cooler months.]]>
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				<![CDATA[While the summers make it all too easy to pull off the easy-going charm of a well-weathered tee, jeans and dark wayfarers, our man of winter is forced to pay attention to his sartorial choices — finding the right coat, blazer and appropriate layering are difficult feats to accomplish without the right kind of guidance.

The mainstream man faults when he turns to the de-facto ‘lumberjack’ look, so popular amongst the fashion phobic, and takes to the streets in chronic plaid, sweaters from high school and loose-fitting jacket/coats. This woodsman’s wardrobe may work on a moose ranch somewhere in Canada but, please, its 2011: the urban man no longer has an excuse to look drab or fashion-illiterate; he dresses appropriately for his city’s ever-evolving modish sensibilities.

Machismo is no longer primitive; but rather has been transposed onto a classier and trimmer playing field. Old school and antiquated elegance is all the rage this year.

For fall/winter 2011-12, designers have showcased a genteel and cultivated look: the man is understated and suave, swathed in neutral palettes, sporting dominating greys. In fact, the unifying trend off the ramps this year is the must-have gray jacket or coat, ideally double-breasted and well fitted.

Locally, Republic by Omar Farooq is a good reference point. The grey double-breasted fur coat from Farooq’s Autumn 2011 ramp collection at the Sunsilk PFDC Fashion Week typifies the rage this year.

Internationally, the trend goes even further and oscillates between Anglo-Saxon textures and the pomp of private school a la fitted blazers with emblazoned breast pockets.

The designer label Miharay-asuhiro channels the romanticism of Oscar Wilde in his winter collection, conjuring grey, genre-bending felted blazers accompanied by the scruff of un-ironed and loose shirts (for the debonair Casanova). Dolce &amp; Gabbana (D&amp;G) has also done a novel take on all things grey and double-breasted, a typically fifties offshoot accentuated with the Dickensonian flavour of coarser fabrics — all rendered acceptable by contemporary and experimental standards (not everyone wants to look like an extra from HBO’s “Boardwalk Empire”) vis-a-vis a clever interplay of grey, mature tones with vivid chromes. Turtlenecks have taken an experimental turn this season — the infusion of jewel-tones and glossy veneers evince quite the detour from the age-old and safe black or navy high-neck (ultimately, it’s difficult to look bad in even these).

Closer to home, one waits with a bated breath to see what our local royals will be pulling out of the hat this winter. Given the prevailing trends from Paris, New York and Milan, will Pakistan also see an influx of gray and classic revivals? Our sapling of menswear (western) will have to be complete with subtle palettes and ingenious renditions of Harris Tweed, and thematically experimental concepts that have already set the bar very high. It’s not exactly fallacious to assume that Omar Farooq — with his eye for market trends, attention to cut, detail and the impeccable (European imported) fabrics he works with-will take the lead.

Additionally, both Tayyab Bombal and Munib Nawaz may emerge from the upcoming bout of fashion week brouhaha as strong contenders. The former’s expectantly avant-garde line of attack should turn heads while the latter should have an easier time keeping up with this year’s criteria as his current collection of jackets and frayed grey turtleneck sweaters, though a little bulkier where the current fad leans towards slim fits, serve as ideal kindling for a fresh take on what it means to be suave and svelte this winter.

Published in The Express Tribune, September 12th,  2011.]]>
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			<title>Revisiting the sixties</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/244150/revisiting-the-sixties</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/244150/revisiting-the-sixties#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sat, 03 Sep 11 15:55:14 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=244150</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Fashionistas are now incorporating articles of clothing which are inspired by 1960s.]]>
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				<![CDATA[While we have flirted intermittently with the brazen bold prints, polka dots and bell bottom trousers from the 1970s and continue to explore the 80s with oversized tops and tights, it is interesting to note that the current generation of young adults (usually the most fashion savvy) have not yet delved into the 1960s.  Were it not for the hugely popular television series, “Mad Men” (which has managed to compete head long with modern day fashion’s most exciting broadcast representation, “Gossip Girl”), one may not have seen this era being resurrected — from our grannies’ closets to the ramp and the racks.


To give credit where it is due, the local fashion scene was quite pre-emptive with Feeha Jamshed trying to bring the gharara back into main stream fashion with her cotton printed variant of this regal classic and a few futuristic spacey pieces last year at the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2. And if one considers space fashion as a hallmark of the 60s, then Adnan Pardesy’s Guggenheim collection was it, while Ammar Belal’s Corporate Resort wear for women with pencil and miniskirts, dresses, high-waist pants and skinny ties were a more obvious interpretation.

The international fashion gurus soon followed — inspired by January Jones and the rest of “Mad Men’s” uber-stylish cast — when Miuccia Prada launched the Autumn Winter 2010 collection hailing the era of bouffant hair and pill-box hats (heavily patronised and gracefully adorned by the uber-chic Jackie Kennedy). The Prada collection had a trickle down effect which was observed recently at the London and Milan fashion weeks with labels like Jean Paul Gautier, Calvin Klein, Jil Sander, Versace, and Victoria Beckham getting into the 60s grove.

The 60s is an era of interesting juxtaposition and contradiction: fitted miniskirts coexist with sack-like shift dresses and full skirts, and this was perhaps the only period where fashion hadn’t courted seriously in a while. What’s more, the mass retail brand Banana Republic called shot gun on the trend and recently launched a capsule collection of 65 pieces with the “Mad Men” logo. When a look transcends from the screen to the ramp to retail, you know it’s made its way into popular culture and will soon scurry its way into your closet as well. The Banana Republic collection has been designed for both genders under the creative guidance of “Mad Men” costume designer Janie Bryant.

With the fashion season kicking off next month (when the country witnesses a swing of fashion weeks launched from every city, counsel and media body), would the 60s, a period considered to be one of immense prosperity and progressive thought in Pakistan make its presence on the ramps? A brand like Republic, already a strong and dependable label for the style-savvy male, is sure to benefit. But let’s see who successfully picks up on the trend in a more eastern aesthetic. Designer Zahra Shahjahan, who pleasantly surprised us all by showcasing an entire collection of shift dresses-cum-kameezes in phulkari with churidars when the entire industry obsessed over longer lengths, may just offer something new this season.

 

Published in The Express Tribune, September 4th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Pret a Porter: A fashion fiesta</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/228452/pret-a-porter-a-fashion-fiesta</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/228452/pret-a-porter-a-fashion-fiesta#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Wed, 10 Aug 11 15:08:32 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=228452</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Eight Pakistani designers have been chosen to attend Pret a Porter.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Fashion in Pakistan emerged from public oblivion when the fashion weeks kicked off with veteran designers (Maheen Khan, Deepak Perwani, and Rizwan Beyg) debuting in Milan in 2009. 

Two years later, eight of what PFDC’s French fashion consultant Alexandra Senes sees as the country’s finest, have been chosen to head to Paris next month. The list addressed as the ‘Super Eight’ by Senes, includes Pakistan’s most innovative and lauded talents such as Feeha Jamshed (TeeJays) and Kamiar Rokni, along with Adnan Pardesy, Zaheer Abbas, Muse, Shamoon Sultan (Khaadi), HSY, and Nikki Nina.


“Pret a Porter is the biggest women’s fair in Europe,” explains Senes in a nutshell of this regular fashion fair that hosts special trade shows for different markets. The Pret a Porter is scheduled from September 3 to September 6, out of which Senes has secured a Sunday 4 pm slot for an exclusive Pakistani exhibit.

Senes has been a regular guest at the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) fashion week shows and has seen a whole body of work that these designers have had to offer over the last two years.  She candidly admits that the selection of designers has been made on the basis of who excites her the most fashion-wise. Senes was seen sporting a Kami ensemble (“He is someone I really like and support”) and an Elan toga at Lahore fashion week in March (which makes Elan’s absence from the list rather curious given the brand’s very Euro chic sensibility).

Senes has also been very supportive of the younger brood; evident from the inclusion of Zaheer Abbas and Muse. “I really like Mohsin Ali also and wanted him to come, but he still needs time to get ready,” states Senes.  However, the choice of HSY and Nikki Nina – both very ‘active’ brands at the PFDC – is a bit awry given their deeply traditional aesthetic, which is hardly avant-garde.

“Paris is also about learning,” says Senes, and hopes that after this debut at Pret a Porter, designers will be able to do this on their own every six months. Senes has also been promoting Pakistani brands consistently at parties and fashion events in Paris, so much so, that her friends now say ‘you’re Pakistani’.

“I have picked up people for their character and the personality that they bring to the fore,” says Senes, who is quite upset that Feeha Jamshed will not be able to attend the fair due to personal reasons. “Feeha breaks the stereotypes that we have here of brown-skinned Pakistani women. She looks very cosmopolitan and the manner in which she dresses, she could easily be from anywhere in the world,” she adds.

The final cut, however, includes a healthy mix of young and mature designers, western and eastern designs as well as a careful balance of Karachi and Lahore (so as not to accentuate the already brewing fashion politics between the two cities). She is very apprehensive though; “Just three more weeks to go and nobody’s ready!” she cries. The fashion consultant adds that she does not know the response Pakistani designers will receive. “Even though nobody really sells the first time around, I haven’t seen anything they are bringing so I can’t assure you if they can sell,” she says.

Senes designer friend Isabella Ballu, had been guiding the designers on how to fine tune their goods for the Parisian market. Adnan Pardesy, for instance, had to reduce the grammage on his denim designs and Kamiar Rokni, who already has an agent in France and has shown in Paris, has realised that “the West appreciates our embroideries but they don’t wear it.”

Despite how disorganised designers’ business structures are, Milan gave Pakistan the fashion week culture; so let’s see what Paris has to offer.

Published in The Express Tribune, August 11th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Make way for kids’ couture</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/222014/make-way-for-kids%e2%80%99-couture</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/222014/make-way-for-kids%e2%80%99-couture#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Mon, 01 Aug 11 16:20:29 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=222014</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Nida Azwer launches her new clothing line for children.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Her collection at the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) Sunsilk Fashion Week had a fair share of hits and misses, yet designer Nida Azwer won over both critics and fashionistas when she brought children from the Save Our Souls (SOS) village on the ramp. 

Onlookers’ hearts melted as they swooned over the delectable little models sporting Azwer’s miniature Mughal pieces. That, perhaps, was an eureka moment for other designers who also may have already started considering devoting their attention to this line of clothing.


Earlier this year, one saw the astute business woman Maheen Kardar of Karma launch her line for ‘little women’ and make a splash at the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week round three in Lahore. Kardar’s giddy girly show elicited widespread acclaim from even the likes of Britain’s fashion authority Hilary Alexander.

This weekend Azwer, who had been quietly designing for her clients’ kids, finally decided to go public with her new move. “Fashion week was a nice teaser and now I’m officially launching my kids’ line,” says Azwer.

Ranging from Rs2,000 to Rs12,000 and catering  to ages from three months to 12 years, Azwer’s kids collection is essentially formal wear. “Kids normally just wear eastern wear as formal wear,” she rightfully points out. “The kurtas, angharkas and ghaghras are doing really well.”

True to her usual sophisticated ethic, Azwer’s kids’ line is mostly in ivory and gold with pastels that have her signature embossing and fine embroidery. One sees how cleverly she has managed to improvise though: A robot is embossed on the back of a kurta which also has robot accents on the inside of the collar; another kurta sports a delicately embroidered truck on the front pocket. Another one has simple open-ended threads as a final finish and a white chikan kurta has gold blockprint all over and is fashioned like a Lucknow-style angharkha for men. Each piece can ingeniously be replicated for an adult version and Azwer admits that often they are sold in sets for parents and children.

“Designing for children is much harder than designing for adults,” she admits. “It’s a lot of hard work to get the same kind of fit for kids as we do for adults and the finishing is rather tricky as well. Yet, it is a lot more fun to design for kids,” says Azwer.

Azwer recounts how a client’s child was so forthright and independent regarding her clothes that she would personally come and pick out clothes for herself. “Kids today are so precise about what they want that they don’t let their moms pick for them. A few walked in today and were so excited to go to the trial room and try clothes out themselves.”

Given that few options exist for kids to find age-appropriate quality eastern formal wear, one would not be surprised if soon enough all designers launch a children’s wing. The West, on the other hand, considers children an independent buyer group as a result of which a growing number of brands — including Hermes, Ralph Lauren and Burberry — have a collection dedicated to kids. Here in Pakistan, it is a fresh albeit lucrative concept that plays out adorably on the ramp and it will be interesting to see how other fashion biggies interpret their collections for their mini clients.

 

Published in The Express Tribune, August 2nd, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Shamaeel Ansari: Clearing the air</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/215875/shamaeel-ansari-clearing-the-air</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/215875/shamaeel-ansari-clearing-the-air#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sat, 23 Jul 11 17:03:15 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[saadia.qamar]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=215875</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[FPC Chairperson Shamaeel Ansari breaks the silence after two controversy-ridden months.]]>
			</description>
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				<![CDATA[Fashion Pakistan Council (FPC) claims it is moving towards progress, reiterating that there are no musical chairs going on in the council. An insightful and in-depth discussion with chair person Shamaeel Ansari helps us get a better look at the whole picture.


With dirt being thrown around and allegations being hurled in various newspapers, constant press calls to the Fashion Pakistan Council members were largely unattended. However, after more than two months, Ansari finally decided to speak up. “Fashion Pakistan Council is a registered body. There is a procedure and a timeline that we follow. We did not rush into things as we’re a democratic body, requiring everyone’s consent before making any public comments. We were waiting for the paperwork to be completed before speaking out,” said Ansari.

There were allegations that the council’s accounts were mishandled and responding to which Ansari said, “It’s wrong to accuse us. There’s no misappropriation of accounts. It’s just that we’ve taken time to do the paperwork, which we hadn’t done before!”

Speaking on the democratic nature of workings in the council, the designer highlights that in Fashion Pakistan Council there is a process of elections that is in place. “After every three years we have elections and positions holders of this elected board take their respective seats. It is on this platform that we encourage fashion designers to learn about the business of fashion, how to give back to the profession, to learn about the industry and to air their views.”

However, the council has been mired in issues in recent months, which Ansari calls “teething years”, pointing out that all organisations have their share of problems in their initial years. “We have to put the system in place despite what media has to say. Everything needs to be transparent,” she adds.

Regarding the controversy surrounding Amir Adnan’s resignation, who called it quits as the CEO in May this year, Ansari said, “Even Amir Adnan pitched in around 50 per cent of his contribution and that counts.” However, with Maheen Khan holding the seat now, Ansari feels there is faster movement and progress.

But with rumours suggesting that the governing body is loose, some people have even suggested that the council should shut down. Reacting to that, Ansari says, “There’s a passion behind it. A lot of equity is as well. It’s truly got the best board. It’s worth taking it forward. We hope that we will work to put the best and many of the best, in this group, too.”

Interestingly, there are two major fashion councils in Pakistan — the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) in Lahore and Fashion Pakistan Council (FPC) in Karachi — and others have popped up in Islamabad and Peshawar as well. “It’s sad that there are two councils. However, since these two have been there from the beginning, they are the genuine ones. The new councils, however, offer nothing besides fashion weeks, events and shows,” added the designer, regretting the emergence of fashion councils in every nook and corner.

When asked when the next fashion week will take place, Ansari smiles and says, “Hopefully in Karachi in December this year.”

 

Published in The Express Tribune, July 24th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Summer style: Keeping your cool</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/180893/summer-style-keeping-your-cool</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/180893/summer-style-keeping-your-cool#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Thu, 02 Jun 11 17:07:06 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=180893</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Designs at PFDC Fashion Week show how to be stylish in sultry weather.]]>
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				<![CDATA[As the temperature soars and weather gets humid and annoying, the overwhelming heat definitely makes your style quotient trickle down.

Sassy and savvy, our style picks from PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week show you how to stay ‘cool’ in the summer without having to look like a rag doll, no matter what part of the globe you decide to hit.


 

Published in The Express Tribune, June 3rd, 2011.

You can view a slideshow of our style picks here]]>
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			<title>Collection: Fit for a bride!</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/178314/collection-fit-for-a-bride</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/178314/collection-fit-for-a-bride#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sun, 29 May 11 17:10:49 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[saadia.qamar]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=178314</guid>
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				<![CDATA[Ensemble displays Fahad Hussayn’s trousseau collection.]]>
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				<![CDATA[At The House of Ensemble, exhibiting his bridal collection titled Fahad Hussayn’s Trousseau, on the evening of May 27, the young designer once again brought in ‘a contemporary element in the fashion world’.


His was an entire collection, a tribute to the Rajput Princess Mirabai who comes from Ratan Singh’s family.  “She was a mystical figure, a singer, who was not greatly loved by her family, for [taking up] singing.”

But this inspiration is not new to him for, earlier on, he has done collection on Noor Bai, a singer belonging to the era of the Mughal court. Come to think of it, why is every other character inspired royalty? To this, Hussayn answers: “I am a reader. I read a lot of history books and get inspiration from characters. All these interesting characters get explored and a story of my clothes is made through them.” But he insists, he is a culturally-sensitive person, and asserts, “Now Mirabai wore this choli and lower-cut outfit, which I believe cannot be worn here in Pakistan. I need to know my limits, style and particular culture that I cater to, you have to keep it real. Hence these clothes charm my clients.”

About the outfits, he adds: “I give people a variation of what they can have hence, for them, these beautiful bridal collections are what I offer them.” With extensive embroidery, it is the sacha gota or what we call the woven metal technique that charms his customers for a complete ethnic look.

Currently in stock, Fahd Hussayn’s prêt line starts from Rs2,000 and goes up to Rs12,000.

Present at the launch, was socialite Nazneen Tariq who said: “This designer Fahad Hussayn came out very late in our midst. I love his collection and am really inspired by the fact how ethnic he has kept his collection and charms everyone.” He says that he does bridal collection twice a year and often just before the wedding season. Though it was a multicoloured collection, the focus was towards either all whites, or black and even pink. To this he says: “My black comes from the PFDC fashion week collection and the pink line is purely prêt.” For him: “Runway is a canvas and gives a license to the designer to create. For me, my bridal collection is my bread and butter. Prêt is a market driven collection, look in the local elements and you will see certain areas and be able to create.” He says: “I am currently exhibiting at Ensemble and will stock here soon.” And finally what is the Mirabai collection to him: “It’s very me! No matter how hard I try to detach myself from Rajasthani culture, I simple cannot.”

Published in The Express Tribune, May 30th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>The metamorphosis of Hamza Tarrar</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/177198/the-metamorphosis-of-hamza-tarrar</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/177198/the-metamorphosis-of-hamza-tarrar#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Fri, 27 May 11 17:31:32 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=177198</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[When ten other showrooms who opened side by side to mine with the same look, I knew it was time for an overhaul.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Once a permanent feature of Lahore’s fashion circuit, interior designer Hamza Tarrar seemed to have sunk as rapidly into oblivion as he has re-emerged. He entered the fashion scene with great aplomb last summer, when he launched a rather extravagant show room of designer furniture that housed brands like Kenzo, Dolce and Gabbana, Versace and Fendi amongst others. There was much cynical speculation about this young boy, but his oodles of talent shone through repeatedly after his grand debut: At Ammar Belal’s stunning La Musee, where he designed twelve different rooms, at the chic VIP lounge he created at Lahore’s debut fashion week as well as the  beautiful Eden like stage he created for Karma’s show at third instalment of fashion week.


After a recent stint at the hospital, however, where he had a near life and death battle brought on by a severe attack of pneumonia and a host of other health problems, Tarrar has a new perscpective on life, and even bigger plans, it seems..

“All the time I was in the hospital gave me the time to think over my life and the direction I was going in, both personally and professionally. My showroom was shut down for two months during my illness as well. And as I recovered, I realised that I had been given a new life, and hence decided it was time to change everything,” shares Tarrar. From 170 lbs he came down to a meagre 100, and jokes that only women’s jeans fit him now. But despite his characteristic flamboyance, he seems to grown much too frail. “I started with re-doing my home, and ended up getting a new house which reflects the change in me from an ice queen, to a man who wants to settle down.”

Amongst several of Hamza Tarrar’s signature styles, such as the iconic chairs and the black and red gothic romance look, one interior design statement gains most prominence: The sheer white drapes with a circular white lounge, and a suspended crystal ball chandelier in the centre. “When ten other showrooms who opened side by side to mine in Defence with the same look, and designers who redid their studios in the same style and falsely claiming that I had done it for them, I knew it was time for a complete overhaul,” says Tarrar. Although the white look has become rather ubiquitous, Tarrar claims to have only done it for two clients apart from the restaurant Lucianos at Ammar Belal’s.

“It’s not just about new beginnings but also that I have learnt much about people’s tastes and what they want. So now I will be displaying a lot more of my own stuff, which does very well since it is more affordable than the designer brands I house,” says Tarrar, of his new direction in life. Staying in line with this new vision, Tarrar finally got a space to showcase his work in Gulberg, which is the main shopping arena in Lahore. Instead of opening up yet another large plaza, he chose to become a part of the stunning bridal studio, Tehxeeb, where he has ingeniously created three packages for rooms for brides.

“Just give us an empty room and watch us work our magic,” states Tarrar, as he describes his three tiered packages, where his team and himself will do up everything from the ceilings and floors to the towels and the potpourri. The Platinum, starting from Rs2 million and up, will create a room using only high end designer brands from Casa Hamza such as Versace, Kenzo, Fendi and the like. The Gold, which shall be from Rs10-15 lakh will be a blend of designer wares along with Tarrar’s own furniture. The Silver, ranging from Rs5- 10 lakhs will be a room done entirely with Tarrar’s own line, and given his creative exuberance, any bride who wishes to be different would opt for Tarrar’s own expertise. Also with the rising prices for every commodity, especially for luxury goods, the silver package is a great deal. Forgo a jewellery set and opt instead for a chic designer room.

But that’s not all . A luxury brand that understands client relations well, Tarrar will gift each bride a lovely diamond token from Damas. A jewellery set for the platinum bride, a bangle for the gold, and a pendant for the silver. “We want out brides to feel special in every way, and weddings are all about give and take, so this is our way to say thank you for choosing us, “ says Tarrar, who also promises that none of these presents will be tiny or frail trinkets, but something substantial that these brides can actually wear.

But it’s not just furniture that Tarrar has been doing. Given his meticulous attention to detail and design, he has begun to do bespoke weddings, “just two in a season”, he states firmly, where everything is created from scratch and is unique to that event only. “From stitching the Quran cover for the rukhsati to training the domestic help to lay out a table perfectly, to cards and stages, we do it all,” says Tarrar, and since such micro management takes intense effort he just does a maximum of three in a year.

 

Published in The Express Tribune, May 28th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Amir Adnan resigns as CEO of Fashion Pakistan Council</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/169779/amir-adnan-resigns-as-ceo-of-fashion-pakistan-council</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/169779/amir-adnan-resigns-as-ceo-of-fashion-pakistan-council#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 May 11 15:49:53 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=169779</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Will the council survive this resignation, and will the industry dynamics remain unchanged?.]]>
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				<![CDATA[It was inevitable, they’re all saying, some in hushed whispers, others more blatantly: It was only a matter of time before designer Amir Adnan would resign as CEO of the crumbling Fashion Pakistan Council.


The organisation may have been the first to kick start the concept of fashion weeks in the country, but as more players entered the arena, it became clear quite fast which would have the strength to last.

Ever since Adnan took the reins, he had been stating that an enormous amount of legalities and paperwork  were bogging the council down, keeping it from moving on with its objectives. “I have been trying for the last six months to cover the backlog. I can’t do it anymore because I just don’t have those kind of resources, time or man-power. Plus, all of this work pertains to the previous council members and I don’t have much information on them,” he explained.

A seasoned player in the market, who is managing not only his own label, but also lending support to his wife’s label FnkAsia, it’s quite easy to see that his hands are full. “Just because I can’t do it doesn’t mean I should hold onto the office, and not let anyone else attempt it,” spoke Adnan candidly, as he dropped the bombshell that his resignation as CEO also means his departure from the council, despite the fact that he is a founding member.

Adnan has been an active part of the fashion week scene throughout the year, with FnkAsia showcasing at the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week, as well as the Islamabad Fashion Week. With outlets all over the world, the man is only interested in the business that it can yield him. “Having spent time in the council and as an observer for the last few years, the output of designer wear is very limited in a market which is very small. From an economic stand point, all this exposure has lead to diminishing returns,” he says, citing that expecting a two-year-old to give a matriculation exam is ludicrous - an allegory to the situation of the fashion industry at the moment.

“This country just needs one fashion council, and at best, two fashion weeks in a year,” he says, voicing what nearly everyone in the industry, save those clutching onto power, have been saying for the past three years. Of course, there’s no guessing which council has the technical, commercial and design prowess to carry the mantle.

So will Adnan be joining the ranks with the PFDC? He firmly denies the suggestion. “Joining PFDC is not a relevant situation right now, nor it is a consideration. I showed at the last fashion week that they held and will keep supporting them. I don’t see the Lahore-Karachi divide. It’s all about Pakistan, and if someone is doing something well, we should all just join hands and promote it,” says Adnan who, from day one as CEO, kept insisting that he would welcome unity between both councils. The future seems rather bleak for the council: With trumps like Adnan Pardesy, Feeha Jamshed, Rizwanullah and Zaheer Abbas showing with the PFDC, Fashion Pakistan has lost its star power significantly.

While Adnan has been forthright about his resignation, Shamaeel Ansari, the official spokesperson of the Fashion Pakistan Council has refrained from making any statement saying that “the process of new elections needs to be discussed with the legal advisors, and since we still have a lot of paper work to do, we cannot comment till all of it is resolved.”

Veteran designer and board member Maheen Khan will now take on Adnan’s post as CEO.

Expressing her views about his departure, Safinaz Munir of Sana Safinaz said: “I am very sad to have him go. I’m really going to miss him. His clear and precise thinking was of great value to the council”

How successfully the council manages to stay afloat with its administrative mess, lack of funds and constant musical chairs vis-a- vis a council like the PFDC, that is growing from strength to strength with the right corporate connections, unity and design prowess, only time will tell. Meanwhile stakeholders in the industry still hope and pray for a single platform.

Published in The Express Tribune, May 17th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Our very own Tyra Banks</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/168036/our-very-own-tyra-banks</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/168036/our-very-own-tyra-banks#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 May 11 19:16:32 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[saadia.qamar]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=168036</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Aspiring to be a model? Here’s your chance!]]>
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				<![CDATA[In the 1980s, the aspiration to become a model was relatively rare and, well, frowned upon as well. But some determined women took the bold step and pioneered in the field.


One such woman is Frieha Altaf, whose name is synonymous with modelling. After she launched her career in this field, she took quick strides and, in 1993, started her modelling agency called Cats.

Cats is credited for introducing those faces that launched a thousand ships in this small fashion industry. From Vaneeza Ahmed Ali and Tooba Siddiqui to Fayeza Ansari, just to name a few. Cats Modelling Agency has not just been involved in bringing the models to the ramp, but also in creating celebrity status for them.

Today, Cats is involved in furthering this cause and, in collaboration with Veet, has introduced a model hunt, which is now in its second year.

Speaking to The Express Tribune, Altaf said: “We are not just introducing models, but also training them as per international standards, which is the motto for Cats.”  Along  with Veet, Cats has explored immense potential in the fashion industry, identifying new faces and making the annual success of the event a ritual.”

Altaf rightly believes that her agency has not just “created models, but celebrities”.

Last year, at the Veet Miss Super Model Contest, 10 girls were short listed from a pool of 300 applicants. Saima Haroon became the winner of the first Veet Miss Super Model Contest in 2010. Haroon was the face that was seen at the opening of the Gulabo store launch and was part of the PFDC Fashion Week, as well.

This year, buzz has it that the event is supposed to take place in the third or fourth week of May and Altaf promises: “Veet Miss Super Model 2011 is going to be a bigger and much more glamorous event. This year, the event is on a mega level and includes participants from Lahore as well. Above all, Veet Celebration of Beauty — in its sixth consecutive year - includes a famous international designer and three international models, making the event a much awaited experience for the audience.”

Altaf feels that this is a “fabulous opportunity” for any girl who dreams of becoming a super model, as the agency gives “fresh faces a chance at success with hands on training and exposure”. Altaf states the fact that this is a country where: “there is no training institute for aspiring models to go to, people don’t have many options. Cats Modeling Agency is by far the only agency that has taken up this challenge and managed to train new models.”

Frieha Altaf handles the whole process with delicate care, and once the Veet Miss Super Model contest is over, it is a new beginning for the new face that has entered into the small scale fashion industry. “Putting the models in events, shows, introducing them to agencies, designers, getting their shoots done etc, these are all a part of Cats Modeling Agency’s responsibility,” says Altaf.

She warns though, that this opportunity is essentially meant for a girl who takes this responsibility seriously. Having a positive and very professional attitude is imperative. “In our industry, most aspiring models have no training and there is a total lack of exposure. It is essential to have the right attitude above all. Through experience and expertise, I will try to guide them in this field.”

 

Published in The Express Tribune, May 14th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Fast and furious</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/168039/fast-and-furious</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/168039/fast-and-furious#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 May 11 19:05:05 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=168039</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[The Pearl Continental showcased a vibrant collection of attire with automobiles.]]>
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				<![CDATA[The idea of vintage cars and fashion sounded rather ‘racy’ (pun intended) and adventurous for an establishment as sophisticated as the Pearl Continental (PC) to put up with. Much to the dismay of aficionados of the odd like myself, there was hardly any convergence of the two ‘fast items’. The automotive beauties stood pristinely outside the ballroom, awing many a hapless man who entered. It was quite a sight to observe men swooning and ogling at the Ford Mustang from the 1960s, gawking lustfully at the Studebaker, Hupmobile and the Humber Pullman as they stood in the company of an Austin Princess amongst a bevy of other classics.


Inside the ballroom, beauties of the mortal kind romped under the spotlight. Yet many bemoaned that there seemed to be no connection between the cars and the fashion. However, Alia Tariq, the public relations director at the PC, rose to the defence: “Fashion and cars do have a lot in common. The young sporty looking, yet classic cars represent the pret line of work, while the vintage classics relate to the traditional bridal couture. Vintage cars add a new dimension to the whole experience and were a great attraction for the people.”

While the event was held to launch a new sunscreen, SpectraBAN by Stiefel, the fashion show made no reference to the brand itself, apart from gifting a generous basket of goodies to the women in the hall. The show featured two of fashion’s most exciting talents: Ali Xeeshan and Munib Nawaz, designers who are known for being eccentric and energetic on the ramp. “To associate these designers with the new product seemed appropriate because they are equally popular among the target audience the brand is catering to — women on the move,” said Tariq. “Besides, one needs to encourage these designers as we see the more established names left, right and centre already, all the time.”

Munib Nawaz opened for the night, doing what he does best: presenting a line of daring clothing in lusciously hued kurtas and blazers for men. Nawaz is known for his magic with men, but for the first time, he chose to venture into women’s wear by presenting a three-tiered showcase of western and eastern casuals and an eastern formal line for women.

Interestingly, the female models donned the male kurtas, opening up a new market for Nawaz which goes in line with the androgynous look for the season. But androgyny aside, many women, particularly from an art background, have been known to sport their signature loose fit male kurtas. In his resort collection for women, Nawaz, a true maverick, remained restrained and conservative in his monotone choice of colour for women and instead went wild with a techno acid pallete of reds and oranges for men’s blazers. Xeeshan brought his most celebrated collection, The Phoenix, onto the ramp with variations in style and silhouette, incorporating prints and shawls that he had showcased at his most recent showing at the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week. The first half of his collection featured his pret line in his noted crushed silk look with tunics and jumpsuits, while the second half was a formal presentation of the bridal and trousseau wear that Xeeshan does for Crimson’s clothing line. While the clothes were marked heavily with Xeeshan’s signature edgy style, with each passing presentation, it has become clear that the man is a genius with accessories. Whether it’s faux parrots or the more practical, yet stunning mirror and gota jewellery that Xeeshan’s used for Fashion Week and the Bridal Couture Week, he’s certainly got a knack for creating a perfect awe-inspiring look. This time around, the eccentric craftsman utilised ordinary kaam walay pearls to create mughlai jhumkas and maatha patis for a glorious regal bridal look.

In spite of a satisfying fashion presentation, one couldn’t help feel disappointed that the vintage cars were not used more creatively for the show. Perhaps they were too valuable to become a more integrated aspect of the fashion showcase, yet one hopes that other’s pick up on the idea and deliver a more conceptual show in the future.

 

 

Published in The Express Tribune, May 14th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Celebs on the ramp</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/166439/celebs-on-the-ramp</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/166439/celebs-on-the-ramp#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 May 11 16:38:46 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[saadia.qamar]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=166439</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[When celebrities showcase outfits,the prestige of the runway is elevated]]>
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				<![CDATA[RECAP: It is December 2006 in Karachi. It is the Lux Carnivalle de Couture, an annual fundraiser event for the Teacher’s Resource Centre. 

One local designer Rizwan Beyg is party to the event and two Indian designers are also there. Enters Tarun Tahiliani, an Indian designer, with local models adorning his outfits and then a Bollywood star in their midst appears, Shilpa Shetty as the showstopper, sums up the collection and one can’t help notice that the crowd goes mad cheering the Bollywood diva. At this very same event Bollywood actress Urmila Matondkar, a vision in a white dress with glittery embellishments, closed the segment for Indian designer Manish Malhotra.


Likewise celebs from the Pakistani entertainment industry have also had their fair share of experiencing the runway. Shaan modelled for Umar Sayeed at the TRC Carnival de Couture earlier in 2010. At the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week in November 2010, designer Sahar Atif’s label Saai showcased the pop duo Strings who sang live on the ramp!

The 2010 PFDC Fashion Week also witnessed Lollywood actress Sana displaying Shaiyanne Malik’s outfit. Hajra Hayat’s collection at the same event featured Lollywood actor Moammar Rana and his wife. On the second day of the event Resham walked on stage dressed in a pink sequinned outfit for Lajwanti’s finale piece. Reema decked up in a bridal outfit, dazzled the runway for the HSY collection. At the Dubai Fashion Week last year, Ali Zafar walked the ramp for HSY and received much applause. Since fashion weeks have become a regular fixture, several Lollywood stars have taken to the ramp.

When the Bridal Couture Week 2011 took place this year in April, the third day’s event introduced Deepak Perwani’s chic bridal collection and the first face which came forth was, none other than, renowned fashion photographer Tapu Javeri .The showstopper for Perwani’s segment was none other than the Pakistani starlet Mona Lisa, who’s recently appeared in Bollywood and gained wide recognition.

When celebrities walk down the ramp, how does a local, grossly underpaid model feel?

Talking to The Express Tribune Frieha Altaf, former model and now CEO of Catwalk Productions (an event management company) says: “I would imagine that the next goal for each model would be to become a star and a showstopper”. She further added that: “Nothing sells more brands than a Bollywood star. Even multinationals in Pakistan are using Bollywood stars to sell their brands, for instance: Katrina Kaif for Lux and Veet!”

What is a designer’s focus when they bring forth a first face or a showstopper in the form of a celebrity? Is it for creating hype about the label or to gain fame? Altaf adds: “The designer looks for his or her muse, the inspiration, the perfect fit. That is the criteria and also affects the marketability of the product.”

Zhalay Sarhadi, now an actor but previously a model says: “I took it as a job, but I feel when celebrities walk down the ramp, I never used to get intimidated by them, I am in no competition with them. I used to model to satisfy my creative talent.” Why do designers take to celebrities for a first face or a show stopper?  Sarhadi says: “[It’s a] theatrical gesture as that personality will grab all the attention. The chief ambition of the designer is to promote, his or her product, for that, celebs are just a means to an end!”

On similar lines, Rubya Chaudhry, another model says: “It’s always delightful. It’s very sweet and nice [to share the ramp with the celebs].” For she believes, “There is no such insecurity, until and unless you have something personal against the celebrity.” Chaudhry feels secure in her skin.

But Syed Rizwanullah, the fashion designer who often models for other designers, has a different version of the story to share: “Modelling is not an easy job. The models don’t take it very well. You must remember there are two types of people: those who know how to walk the ramp and those who don’t know how to, but walk the ramp anyway!”

He says: “People believe in star power, it adds that extra buzz to the illusionary world of fashion that we all live in.” Moreover Rizwanullah says: “Look, I am a designer but I often walk the ramp for the other designers, I do it with such respect that the rest of the models love me for it.” More so, “When celebrities participate it is all about them, when it should mostly be about the designer. Here in Pakistan, the models are not treated with respect, people treat them like cheap labour, when they should be treated like a flower.” Rizwanullah believes: “The ramp is a different world, it might not ask for beautiful faces but it does ask for confidence.”

The final word comes from Frieha Altaf. When asked which celebrity has the star power to be a show stopper and the next big thing for fashion shows here in Pakistan, she replies without hesitation: “Shahid Afridi, for sure.”

Published in The Express Tribune, May 12th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>FnkAsia: Ahoy Captain!</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/163249/fnkasia-ahoy-captain</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/163249/fnkasia-ahoy-captain#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Fri, 06 May 11 17:23:45 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[saadia.qamar]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[FnkAsia’s latest collection is inspired by sea merchants and the ocean.]]>
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				<![CDATA[The Spring/Summer Colle-ction 2011 of designer Huma Adnan’s pret wear label, FnkAsia, which made its debut earlier this year at the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week in Lahore, is now out in stores.


Fashion is about inspired, but wearable pieces. The success of a fashion label is apparent when its design philosophy becomes an emblem of the design house, a statement that becomes the talk of the town. Such is the case with FnkAsia.

“Juicy,” is how Adnan describes the season’s collection which consists of short kurtis and sleeveless shirts in playful colours. “The colours I chose for this summer, such as red, purple and banana yellow, are very fruity and they represent the season in a very fresh way. It’s all about having fun and creating a playful look that’s all your own.”

About the design philosophy and the inspiration behind it, Adnan says: “The design theme this season is sea merchants, bringing a riot of richness from the ocean floor and taking inspiration from the many wonders of nature found in vibrant corals, florescent sea urchins and wild anemones. The brand plays the role of a sea merchant, dredging the ocean surface for these treasures and carrying them across runways.”

Stylistically, Adnan says: “We have experimented with a lot of different cuts and lengths. People love the fresh new look.”

“The whole summer we will be doing extensions of the runway collection. At the moment, we have taken out 12 designs in the market here in Karachi, shortly to be followed by other outlets in the country and even those located abroad.”

The collection primarily uses cotton fabric. “With the heat catching up by the hour, the only answer is cotton,” says Adnan.  “We have used fabric with a high content of cotton thread. Embroidery is the essence of any FnkAsia style. People adore our embroideries and this time round we have specifically used our new accessories line in our collection as add-ons. We have played with different locations on a top, not necessarily focusing on the neckline.”

The price range is Rs2,000 and up, but with the general public eager to go for a designer collection lawn this summer, how exactly is she hoping to get the people to buy the FnkAsia cotton collection?

Huma Adnan aptly points out: “There is no comparison between unstitched fabric and a pret line. Pret wear is always preferred because it is more convenient and cutting edge. You wear what you see. With lawn fabric, you are totally dependent on a local tailor for the finish, fitting and even the designing. It’s more like buying groceries and then cooking at home versus going to a restaurant!”

The brand primarily draws younger clients. “FnkAsia as a brand endorses and feels proud of being a totally Pakistani brand. It caters to our native style; hence our youth should feel connected to their homeland and still be dressed to rock the world. FnkAsia designs for the hip and trendy and those who want to make a difference. The age does not matter.”

After this truly inspired collection from the sea, Adnan plans to go to the villages!

“FnkAsia wants to get the local culture into mainstream fashion through the craft of the village women. FnkAsia was the very first brand which screamed ‘Pakistan’ when it was launched seven years ago and will continue to do so. It is a brand which will proudly carry with it the sentiments of the women living in villages through their proud crafts.”

 

Published in The Express Tribune, May 7th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Day two of BCW: Stars are born!</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/156366/day-two-of-bcw-stars-are-born</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/156366/day-two-of-bcw-stars-are-born#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Mon, 25 Apr 11 16:47:19 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=156366</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Lesser known designers dazzle with their exquisite bridal ensembles.]]>
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				<![CDATA[The second day of Bridal Couture Week (BCW) followed the same format as its first installment: Day two was reserved for low key names in the business of bridal fashion. With a ramp cradled on both sides with crystal tear drops, some of which also hung majestically from the ceiling, the stage was set to dazzle. While many did not expect unknown names like Mona Imran and Shireen Hasan to make an impact, they delightfully surprised us all.


Mona Imran and Shireen Hasan, who have been working for a significant ten and seven years respectively, may have a loyal clientele, but are not well known beyond their cherished cliques. A public platform, such a bridal week, allows for such names to emerge into the spotlight and if they have the design prowess to hit a chord with the discerning fashion crowd, their businesses and brands will grow, along with a greater awareness of their product.

Imran opened her show with adorable little girls sauntering onstage and created a ‘wow’ moment with this concept, which is becoming quite a rage these days. Karma’s show at the recently concluded PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week, capitalised on the concept and delivered a stellar show, as did a recent charity fashion show. By including children in her show, Imran made an important business move that proved that she’s a designer that one can depend on to cater to the whole family.

Imran showcased a vibrant and tasteful trousseau collection replete with lovely bridals in a wide palette of colors ranging from black to pastels to the ubiquitous shaadi red. The show concluded with the reverberating beats of live dhols.

Shireen Hasan worked exclusively with block prints, an ever green aspect of formal wear in Pakistan. She demonstrated her dexterity in creating vivacious ensembles using traditional block print motifs as the central focus of her work. From bold fuchsia maxi dresses to ponchos and traditional formal wear, Hasan showed a range of attire for young brides to wear at their dholkis and wedding parties.

Relatively well known brands like Lajwanti and Hajra Hayat also showcased on day two. Both brands stood out for bringing Lollywood onto the catwalk. Resham made an appearance yet again for Lajwanti, but this time in a red number that didn’t quite do justice to her, especially compared to the previous scintillating pink from the first BCW. Even the cherubic faced film actor turned television anchor, Noor took to the ramp for Hajra Hayat, a brand that may not be ‘it’ for bridal wear, but made an impact with Noor’s appearance.

The night, however, belonged to Zainab Sajid, whose intricately worked garments and breathtaking bridals, albeit very Sana Safinaz inspired, were not only beautiful to behold but were impeccably stitched and finished. And with the star of the moment, Humaima Malik, who sizzled on the ramp wearing Sajid’s garments, the designer emerged that evening as the ‘go to person’ for a spectacular bridal jora. And this is precisely why it is crucial for bridal weeks to allow lesser known talents (even if those in attendance complain about not seeing bigger banners strut their stuff) to take the stage, so that gems like Sajid can shine.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 26th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Bridal Couture and Business:  A Match made in Heaven</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/150097/bridal-couture-and-business-a-match-made-in-heaven</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/150097/bridal-couture-and-business-a-match-made-in-heaven#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Fri, 15 Apr 11 16:32:39 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[express]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=150097</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[PFDC collaborates with cosmetic giant to announce the PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Couture Week, spearheaded by renowned event managers J&amp;S and local fashion channel Style 360, debuted last year in Lahore. Now, just when Bridal Couture Week is set to commence its second season this weekend in Karachi, the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) has decided to steal a bit of their thunder.

PFDC announced its own version of the same — the PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week. Slated to be held by the end of September this year, it will host four days of shows with four shows daily, including jewellery shows.


Since the trend of fashion weeks took off in the country, the PFDC, through its consistency and efficiency, has proven itself to be by far the most credible fashion platform in Pakistan. As a council they have understood the most vital lesson vis-à-vis the business of fashion — to form links with corporations involved in the business of beauty and glamour. They have Sunsilk on board for their fashion week, and they have now forged a most pertinent alliance with the leading international cosmetic brand, L’Oréal Paris. This coalition should have been formed earlier in the fashion game, but better late than never.

The women heading both entities are powerhouses in their own right: PFDC’s Executive Committee Chairperson Sehyr Saigol rules the roost where local fashion is concerned, albeit with an iron fist, while Musharraf Hai, the managing director of L’Oréal Pakistan, is perhaps the only woman to have headed a corporation in Pakistan and stands as the personification of the modern Pakistani woman — successful, committed and focused.

“There’s a natural synergy between Musharraf Hai and the fashion community. She’s the ultimate woman and I am personally very excited and motivated to work with her,” said Saigol, after announcing the partnership at a press conference held at the PFDC’s own outlet.

“It’s good that this has finally come together after speaking about it for so long. With 70 per cent of the population under the age of 30 years, the bridal market is a huge arena for growth,” said Hai.

The collaboration between these strong women will be interesting for all fashion insiders who are waiting to see how the dynamics play out. Their alliance sends a vital message of empowerment and growth and makes sense, as bridal fashion will always be synonymous with women.

Hai was quick to point out that “fashion is not frivolous but a lifestyle and culture” and has great business potential, particularly with regards to bridal wear.

When asked why she didn’t join hands with those who have already come up with a bridal show and exhibit concept, Hai responded, “So what if there are two different companies doing it? Is there only one shampoo in the market, or one cellular company?”

Some fear that the bridal couture industry isn’t large enough to support a large number of players, and this collaboration may further splinter it instead of building it. Hai pragmatically squelched the thought by stating, “Let a thousand flowers bloom. The larger the number of players entering a market, the more it grows. I am just applying basic business logic to the beauty and fashion industry. The real question to ask is, who will be able to sustain this process for the next 50 years?”

A loaded question indeed. With only a small pool of designers and related personnel in a fashion industry with limited resources, there is little doubt where they will sway.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 16th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>PFDC: Time to redesign?</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/146379/pfdc-time-to-redesign</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/146379/pfdc-time-to-redesign#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sat, 09 Apr 11 18:08:16 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[The face of fashion needs a makeover to meet demands of the global fashion market.]]>
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				<![CDATA[It’s been three seasons since the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) launched its fashion week.

In the two years since they’ve been in action, they have managed to establish themselves as the most credible fashion platform in the country. A marked achievement, particularly in light of the avalanche of fashion weeks over the previous two years, and even more so at a time when the equally credible Fashion Pakistan week has floundered.


“We will be back in action and hold our fashion week in the second half of the year any time between July and December. Some pending paper work is holding us back,” said Amir Adnan, CEO of the Fashion Pakistan council whose retail brand FnkAsia showed at the recent leg of the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week. “A council is not anyone’s private property,” defended Adnan, saying that there’s no need for pettiness and one can and should show at other fashion weeks. “The purpose is to promote fashion and not a council,” he concluded.

From their inception, fashion weeks in the country have been touted as trade and business events even though the initial start was rather bumpy on the financial front. In terms of business the last PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week got 17 designers under the retail brand Labels to open their doors to well-heeled clientele at Dubai’s Studio 8. There were also announcements of designers stocking across 42 Hang Ten stores, the absurdity of which the council probably realised soon enough and the matter was shelved. This year however, the PFDC managed to secure the Expo Centre, a venue that spells trade, to signify the seriousness of their intent to promote the business of fashion. An exhibition hall was situated right next to the show area and in an effort to make linkages with local textile empires, voile shows were held in the afternoon where big guns like Bonanza and Bareeze participated.

Yet the handful of local fashion buyers that the country has were perplexingly absent. While Zahir Rahimtoola of Labels, the largest fashion retailer in the country completely stayed clear of the event, Asad Tareen of the Designers, Zeba and Shehernaz Husain of Ensemble and Zara Raza of L’atlier showed up briefly and that too to support their designer friends. “All the fashion weeks in the country at the moment are geared towards image building and press mileage. There’s a lot of theatrics on the ramp and a rethink is required on the business front to bring ramp wear to the level of street wear in the country,” said Rahimtoola.

With marginal foreign buyers at each season, the need of the hour is to strengthen the position of loyal buyers by creating hype for them about the designer’s collections with a clear flow of business information and feedback and a space for them to interact with designers. Pakistan is still viewed largely as a basket of embroideries and embellishments by the international fashion community, buyers and media alike. The core purpose of venturing into the indigenous market is to assess what crafts can be lifted and merged with foreign market demands. While at the PFDC’s showcase in November, Nalini Aubeeluck, a Mauritian designer and retailer, although bowled away by the rich embroideries that she felt were “so detailed and beautifully accomplished”, felt that they wouldn’t work in Mauritius as “people in my country don’t wear such clothes. The designers that could possibly work are Sara Shahid of Sublime, Zaheer Abbas and Sadaf Malatere, if their prices are flexible enough”.

Moreover, showcasing talent that does not have the production capacity to meet demands is further damaging to the cause of business of fashion. Brands such as TeeJays that have met with well-rounded applause from local and foreign attendees are nowhere to be seen after the shows. Without even a press kit or a business card, it is a futile attempt to present clothes that buyers would flock towards but can have virtually no access to. Sure, talent needs to be nurtured and encouraged, but a fashion week platform if not utilized properly is a waste of time and resources for all parties involved.

If the PFDC intends to use the fashion week as a platform for cultural exchange and a reflection of Pakistan’s soft power, and there is no reason why it shouldn’t. But if that is an important concern, then it is time to deliver conceptual shows rather than the usual run of the mill catwalk to thumping music. The one show that people will remember, including Britain’s greatest fashion authority Hilary Alexander, from this round of the PFDC is Karma’s, for its frothy dreamlike enchantment depicted the mother daughter relationship in all its sweetness and finery. The man who brought the dream to life, Hamza Tarrar, is an interior designer par excellence who was responsible for creating a chic retro lounge for the media and designers to mingle over cocktails and sushi. Here is a man that understands glamour and his creative insight into fashion will only add to the grandeur of the game.

And it’s not just Tarrar. There’s Zain Mustafa who works exclusively with Nabila and would have to be coaxed into fashion and the incredibly talented Athar Ali Hafeez who mentors and is friends with many young designers. From amongst their own, PFDC has a powerful tool in HSY who is a personification of the quintessential showman. From choreography and styling, to the general mechanics of a show, HSY knows how to deliver a class act and render a memorable performance. Perhaps it is time for HSY the designer to step back and HSY the visionary and brand-maker to step up. With his brand now working with the precision of a well oiled machine despite his perennial absence due to his constant globetrotting, there is no man better suited than the veritable HSY to give an image make over to many designers who, although established business wise, need image make over’s. “I feel my vision works and if others egos are strong enough to get under our label then we are launching HSY Management Services soon to lend support to designers who want to become as big as us.”

Given that this season we saw a host of designers walking for each other such as Khadija Shah of Elan for Ali Xeeshan and Nikki Nina for Rizwanullah, if this camaraderie can be translated in a more tangible way, as challenging and ambitious as it may sound, then PFDC can be a powerful unified force.

 

Published in The Express Tribune, April 10th, 2011]]>
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			<title>All for one, and one for all</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/146378/all-for-one-and-one-for-all</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/146378/all-for-one-and-one-for-all#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sat, 09 Apr 11 18:07:45 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[mohsin.sayeed]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=146378</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Fashion journalist Mohsin Sayeed’s take on a Pakistani fashion council in an ideal world.]]>
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				<![CDATA[While a number of people fell for Tribune’s April Fool’s prank hook, line and sinker, Fashion Pakistan and Pakistan Fashion Design Council took it so seriously that it defines a new level of seriousness. 

I must say, this was the only uniting factor for both the councils. A prank. Got them together to co-write a letter that said that in fact they are not together — still with me? It made me think if they can write a letter demanding a public apology and threatening legal action in case of noncompliance, why can’t I take it seriously too? Delayed reaction, I agree, but still better than no reaction. I thought what I would do IF I ever have to head a fashion council.


Aren’t we all allowed to dream, and take ourselves seriously? So here’s my wish-list/plan for a council and fashion week under my brilliant exemplary leadership, adding that chances of this materialising are as bright as Pakistan being declared by Transparency International to have cleansed itself of all things rotten or becoming a secular, stable, cleansed of Taliban-mindset, progressive democracy…

1. I shall run the All Pakistan Fashion Council (APFC) like a proper company with properly supervised marketing, research and development departments. The council will have a board of designers serving as the face responsible just for the fashion; they will not interfere in the management and running of the council. Sales of collections and confirmed orders and follow-ups will be announced to keep track of business growth and annual reports will be published to document that growth. The APFC will be the single most powerful collective bargaining body, promoting and negotiating deals and rebates for the designers. A tax holiday period will be negotiated with the government of the day for growth and progress to take it from a cottage industry to midscale industry.

2. Initially, the APFC will hold just two fashion weeks a year: Spring/summer and couture. Pakistan, with its rich textile tradition and cotton as one of its major crops, is famous for hand-woven and cotton textiles. The world is looking for our crafts structured with a global appeal. We must build upon our strengths and take it from there. Autumn/Winter will be added to the calendar at a later stage.

3. I will invite IMG Fashion, which owns and operates fashion events around the world, back. It is all well and good to get international press, but to be a global player, a global partner is a must. IMG can pave the way for our designers to show in fashion weeks that matter. IMG can help one approach Colin McDowell who has successfully launched many successful initiatives in scouting and promoting young talent.

4. I will drum this deep into everyone’s psyche: A fashion week is not an entertainment event. It is a serious business-to-business and business-to-consumer affair. Major attendees will be representatives from banks, business houses, buying houses, textile companies, garment manufacturers and buyers. A sprinkling of celebrity and leading socialites who further fashion business and are brand ambassadors will be invited to add the required glamour. However, relatives, friends, and oglers will strictly be kept out.

5. I will forge ties with Trade Development Authority of Pakistan (TDAP) and take over its fashion department. The TDAP with its huge budgets reserved for promoting Pakistani products wastes money favouring politicians and their ‘friend’ designers taking ‘exhibitions’ abroad (read having paid holiday at taxpayer’s expense). I will ensure budgets are spent on two global events over the next decade: London Fashion Week, where the world comes to scout fresh talent, and one in South East Asia either Tokyo or Hong Kong, so we can capture the regional markets. The TDAP will be made to play a more active role in forging ties with various domestic and international manufacturers.

6. I will prioritise wooing buyers and press from Africa, South America, Middle East and South East Asia to gain a foothold into their respective markets. While buyers of mega retail stores such as Harrods, M&amp;S, Saks, Barneys, Neiman Marcus and Harvey Nicholas will be approached, presented various designers’ portfolios and invited to the fashion week, stores like Browns, Villa Moda etc . will be equally focused for small consignments. India is a huge market too. Various platforms like the Pak-India Business CEO Forum will be roped in to facilitate business and media participation to make inroads into the Indian market.

7. Pakistani manufacturers once got orders from leading international brands, and a few still do. Those manufacturers will be requested to come forward once orders begin pouring in. I will find garment and accessory manufacturers in the largest industrial estate in our own backyard —China. Forming ties with manufacturers there will facilitate our designers to accept large orders and deliver on time.

8. I will organise regular seminars, workshops and talks for the benefit of council members. Members will be kept updated on global fashion, business trends and developments through a periodic publication. The publication will also be used to introduce new collections and fresh talent, which will help discourage pay-to-enter backdoor practitioners. Edited by incorruptible journalists, The Independent will only publish commissioned editorials.

9. To stop infiltration of garbage in the name of fashion, I will institute a blind jury system for the selection process. Potential/willing participants will submit mini collections of six outfits without labels and their identities will be kept strictly confidential to avoid favouritism, lobbies or brand power influencing the jury. The jury will consist of seasoned, fearless and competent professionals who have no fear of being outcast and not invited to parties and shows. It is a very difficult job to find such professionals but I am an optimist despite my reputation. This will successfully close doors on sisters of venue owners who threaten to pull the plug on a fashion week if the sister is not allowed being on the ramp, as well as stylists pretending to be fashion designers. The idea is to showcase the BEST, not the MOST.

10. I will make it mandatory for designers to show full collections instead of just 20 pieces. Shows will not be crammed into one, painful never-ending slot blurring it all into a haze. They will be scheduled an hour apart at least and the allotment will be decided through a ballot, not tantrums. All the designers will be treated equally. To project a professional image, designers will be encouraged and facilitated by individual PR companies and professionals to have press kits, media interviews and buyer appointments. Proper media talks will be organised after each show in separate reserved areas. Similarly, a buyer’s lounge will also be created for private buyer-designer meetings. Exclusive media lounges will be arranged to help media professionals file stories in time.

12. I will not allow any sponsored prize/award for best-dressed person simply to appease clients during fashion week. There are professional ways to advertise and brand one’s product. Also, there will be no awards for best designer(s) of the week. This is not a school competition. No long-winded mutually-gushing, teary-eyed speeches by the chairperson and her/his cronies. It’s not an awards night. Flowers too will not be presented to ANYONE. A fashion week is about the promotion and business of the fashion industry, not individuals.

13. I will ensure that only fashion journalists are accredited to attend the week. Cheap-dollar variety war/political correspondents searching for a sensational story and/or highlighting only sleeveless-and-backless-dresses-and-smoking-models-in-terrorism-and-Taliban-stricken-Pakistan kind of superficiality will be kept strictly out of the week. Those whose motto is “the more crises this country has, the more money I make”. I wish I could name them.

To sum up, I believe after aesthetic sense, two senses are critical to hold in fashion: sense of humour and sense of rumour. If blessed with these three, anyone, and I mean anyone, can become a great designer. Designers applying for membership of my council will be tested on these three senses. These will come in handy when dealing with media and avoiding embarrassingly self-important and serious letters and statements containing threats of legal action. The motto of the council will be: Izzat zillat aani jani cheezain hain, insaan ko fashionable hona chahiye. 

Published in The Express Tribune, April 10th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Ahan: Reviving rural artistic traditions</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/143547/ahan-reviving-rural-artistic-traditions</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/143547/ahan-reviving-rural-artistic-traditions#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Tue, 05 Apr 11 17:27:39 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[Inspired by the ‘one village, one product programme’ the project aims to protect and promote local craft.]]>
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				<![CDATA[One of the important features that the Pakistan Fashion Designers Council (PFDC) Sunsilk Fashion week highlighted as its main concern was to project and revive rural artistic traditions. 

The fact that Pakistan is a treasure trove of craft is something we all know. But where these little gems of art are hiding, in which valley or village, how to pluck them out and incorporate them with modern life and its trends, is a Herculean task. “The levels to which urban Pakistan has reached is unfathomable by rural Pakistan,” says the designer Sahar Atif of Saai, who has been working extensively with rural women in an effort to revive traditional embroidery. “To bring these people to the forefront is not something individuals can do single-handedly,” asserts Atif who is grateful to the government organisation Aik Hunar Aik Nagar (Ahan) for providing her with the network to reach out to rural artisans.


While the PFDC has always stated its commitment towards the revival project, it was only at its third season, that one was able to physically assess the inroads that an establishment like Ahan has made. Their stall took centre stage at the exhibition area and carried remarkably creative handicrafts crafted from the usual ubiquitous materials that one often sees as heritage crafts: Cushions, throws, rugs, pottery — but all fashioned in a rather contemporary ‘cool’ way. Even with a hurried glance one could assess that truly serious work towards innovation is being done, and Pakistani handicrafts are no longer cobwebbed in the vestiges of time.

Inspired from the ‘one village, one product’ programme initiated in Thailand and Japan, Ahan began working along a similar paradigm. With five years since its inception, Ahan has been working exclusively in rural areas with an emphasis on technology enhancement, capacity building and product development. Thus far the organisation has managed to create hubs for cross stitch in Haripur in Khyber-Pukhtunkhwa; lacquer work/jundi in Silawali in Punjab; Kundan and sterling silver jewellery, and phulkari in Bahawalpur; cane work from Mianwali in Punjab; and pottery and ceramics in Fateh Jung.

The organisation’s first step towards innovation was to involve senior fashion designers and artists such as Rizwan Beyg, Deepak Perwani, Amir Adnan, Nilofer Shahid and Noor Jehan Bilgrami. Although one can visibly measure the designer’s creative input in the artisan’s crafts, there is always a deep seated mistrust of government organisations involved in such programmes and with fashion’s leading names involved, one cannot help but be skeptical of how much of business and finances actually manages to trickle down to the grass root levels. “Rizwan Beyg alone has generated nearly Rs5 million for the local communities that he has worked with,” said Naveed Shiekh, the regional manager Punjab for Ahan.

To date, Ahan has provided 20,000 metres of ajrak to Nishat Linen and Generation and 5000 metres to Gul Ahmed. “We began working with the big textile businesses and educated them that this can be a vital aspect of their corporate social responsibility initiatives,” spoke Maroof Afzal, the CEO of Ahan, identifying that the retail brand FnkAsia sources their colourful funky bangles from Dadu in Sindh. “We are a not-for-profit organisation and work with a 60 to 40 sharing ratio between the designer and the artisan,” explained Afzal. “Due to the frequency of work these artisans have become small factory owner’s in-turn employing 30 to 40 people and have reached a position whereby they negotiate their own rates of work with us. Usually, we provide all the necessary raw materials and they set their own labour charges,” said Afzal.

“Our vision for this year is to open our own stores across Pakistan starting from one in Lahore at the end of April at Xinhua Mall, then in Karachi, and also tie up with Trade Development Authority of Pakistan to lend us space in embassies all over the world to display our products,” said Afzal, who is now steering Ahan towards a more visibly commercial path. With the PFDC, Ahan has begun a process of profiling all the embroideries and embellishments from around Pakistan, which designers will pick and choose and accordingly furnish a whole collection using that particular craft.

While despite being a government organisation, Ahan has managed to take innovative steps to promote livelihood and protect dying and ageing crafts, it is also the responsibility of art and design schools such as the Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design, Asian Institute of Fashion Design, National College of Arts and Beaconhouse National University, to instill community-based learning programmes in their curriculum, as a sort of community service. Groups of students must work with clusters of artisans in rural areas, identified by Ahan, that require groups to train, educate and guide them. Revival of craft is a national project where everyone, but artists and designers in particular, are important stakeholders. This process will educate not only upcoming talent on the riches of the soil but empower rural craftsmen as well.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 6th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Fashion Pakistan/PFDC rejoinder</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/142948/fashion-pakistanpfdc-rejoinder</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/142948/fashion-pakistanpfdc-rejoinder#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Mon, 04 Apr 11 19:41:44 +0500</pubDate>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=142948</guid>
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				<![CDATA[We take strong exception to false, incorrect, baseless, inaccurate statements and information based on conjectures.]]>
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				<![CDATA[We, the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC), Fashion Pakistan (FP) and Libas International, are writing to you in complaint of the false story published in The Express Tribune’s Life &amp; Style Pages dated April 1, 2011.

We take strong exception to the false, incorrect, baseless, inaccurate statements and information based on conjectures and surmises, supported by statements of renowned industry personalities, which have been reported as established facts without soliciting our, or indeed anyone’s, confirmation as to the authenticity or veracity of the contents published in the aforesaid story.

This story is misleading and, in fact, represents a complete falsification of material. It also used and distorts a logo (of Libas International) without the consent of the logo copyright holder (Sehyr Saigol), infringing copyright and intellectual property rights therein.

Further, the story published has portrayed us as non-law abiding citizens and has exposed us to the threat of possible legal action by falsely reporting that the PFDC and FP are merging.

Amir Adnan (CEO of FP), Sehyr Saigol (Chairperson of the PFDC), Kamiar Rokni (member of the executive committee of the PFDC) and Hassan Sheheryar Yasin (member of the executive committee of the PFDC) shall hold your newspaper liable for any consequential damage to their reputation, and would like to strongly establish herewith that any and all information attributed to their names within this piece is false and a misrepresentation of fact and of their nature.

It is disappointing that a well-reputed newspaper such as yours has overlooked ethics and relevant laws, especially those pertaining to libel, and has published this story. We demand that you tender an apology to all the parties misrepresented and misquoted herewith and publish the same, along with a retraction of all misinformation and misquotations.

Sehyr Saigol

PFDC chairperson (executive committee) and publisher, Libas International

Saad Ali

CEO PFDC,

Amir Adnan

CEO, FP

&nbsp;

Editor’s note: The story in question was published by The Express Tribune on April 1 solely as an April Fool’s Day joke. The story was, therefore, deliberately tongue-in-cheek – and a clarification was published the very next day on the pages, explicitly explaining the issue to this effect. The piece was run in good faith and the humour was not intended to malign any organisation or individual; however we regret if it has done so.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 5th,  2011.

&nbsp;]]>
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			<title>Indo-Pak diaries: ‘Mumbai se aya mera dost’</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/142849/indo-pak-diaries-%e2%80%98mumbai-se-aya-mera-dost%e2%80%99</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/142849/indo-pak-diaries-%e2%80%98mumbai-se-aya-mera-dost%e2%80%99#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Mon, 04 Apr 11 16:46:00 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=142849</guid>
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				<![CDATA[When all roads were leading to Mohali, we were creating our own inroads towards a deep friendship.]]>
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				<![CDATA[The atmosphere was electrifying when this little coterie of journalists arrived from India at the apogee of the epic Indo-Pak match — a memory that we now wish to forever banish from the deepest recesses of our mind. 

So sure we were of our win, that days prior to the match we had managed to intimidate the Indian fashion media in attendance, for whom, for the first few days since their arrival, fashion was all forgotten in the ebbing passion for cricket.

“You guys will win yaar,” said Shilpa Raina of the Indian news agency, IANS.

“We have great players, but there’s no cohesion like you guys have, you are a team,” she assured me repeatedly, stating that there really is no competition and that victory was ours. And while March 30 was a day we had jokingly decided not to meet, since we were enemies on the field, I took Raina all the way across to the inner city to marvel at the eclectic magnificence of Cuccoo’s Cafe, admist Lahore’s maddening traffic.

When all roads were leading to Mohali, we were creating our own inroads towards a deep friendship.

After several trips to Liberty Market and Anarkali, the conclusion was that “the shopping isn’t as great as Karachi,” spoke Raina candidly, but sighed that, “Lahore is a beautiful place to enjoy food and friends and just be at peace at oneself, and soak in the culture. It has a lot of the old city charm.”


In the quest for some culture but just when the match was about to begin, Elle India’s Chinmayaee Manjunath and her husband, Aman Khanna of the Times of India, were searching for an ‘auto’ to head out exploring a local rustic café; snapping away at trucks to capture Pakistan’s famed and unique truck art and immortalising scenes of peaceful coexistence of the Gurdwara and Badshahi Mosque in the inner city. “I love the truck art here,” spoke Manjunath. “It’s just fabulous! Being in Lahore on the day of the match makes me so aware of Lahori hospitality. We watched the match with two families and had a wonderful time. And at the end of it, people were congratulating us warmly, which was touching. Most of all, I think it reminded me of our shared heritage and history, and made me aware of how deep the ties between the two countries run” she said.

While it was a bitter pill to swallow, even for a non-cricket crazed fan like myself, the match was all the more exciting because those we were competing with were amongst us. As a gesture of peace and support for Pakistan, Amit Roy, a senior journalist who has worked prolifically and written for The Telegraph as well, wore a green tie every day to the fashion week. “I was quite upset actually that Pakistan lost,” he lamented. “It would have been a great victory for the country.” And if anyone thought Roy was just being a gracious guest, he dispelled the thought by stating something as profound and controversial as suggesting a breakdown of the borders! “I firmly believe that we should abolish the need for visas between the two countries,” stated Roy adding that art and cultural activities, such as the fashion week, should be encouraged between the countries to neutralise the negativity that the nations may feel towards each other. He was especially keen on generating a flow of young journalists across the border to experience, what he calls, “the astonishing beauty of Pakistan.”  As a journalist who has done immense work on Indo-Pak issues, Roy aptly identified fashion as a starting point towards building bridges.  “Fashion should be used as a tool of soft power by Pakistan,” said Roy perceptively. “Pakistan has great fabric and makes exquisite clothes; combining that with how beautiful Pakistani women are, makes it a great package that has great potential to completely over turn the stereotypes that people have of the country.”

Coming to Lahore for some like Khanna, was a homecoming of sorts — his family hails from this historic city. And with a keen sense of the camera, he was able to detect and capture how “India is such a part of people’s consciousness here. The whole cityscape is identical to that of Delhi or Mumbai, but although Delhi and Lahore share the Punjabi character, there is gentleness in the city that is amiss in the aggressiveness of Delhi,” Khanna pointed out. “The warmth and hospitality even from people we don’t know has really touched us as well as a unique ownership that everyone here has for the city of Lahore”, added Khanna’s wife who was bowled over by Saieen Zahoor’s performance at Peeru’s Cafe, arranged especially for the international media by the fashion council. “There was such divinity in his performance”, she spoke wistfully.

Hosting the PFDC Sunsilk fashion week in its home town, made it possible for this otherwise esoteric event, to have far reaching effects on cultural exchange and growth than just being a fashion and business event, a feat that the council could not have achieved in Karachi with its cosmopolitan character. In spite of the fact that the council in an effort to remain fair to both cities, has once again announced that it will return to the city by the sea for its second biannual round in November. It is perhaps wiser to stay rooted to the historic and cultural city of Lahore where they can deliver a more wholesome Pakistani experience to their foreign guests.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 5th,  2011.

This article has been revised to reflect the following correction:

Correction: April 5, 2010

An earlier version of this article incorrectly stated "So sure we were of our win" as "So sure we were of are win".]]>
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			<title>Fashion’s best foot forward: The PFDC finale</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/141717/fashion%e2%80%99s-best-foot-forward-the-pfdc-finale</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/141717/fashion%e2%80%99s-best-foot-forward-the-pfdc-finale#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sat, 02 Apr 11 17:52:19 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=141717</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[The final day of the PFDC Sunsilk fashion week was a star-studded fantastic showcase, here are the highlights.]]>
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				<![CDATA[The PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week made up big time for the lukewarm collections and environs on the last day of its showcase. With a fantastic line-up of easily the very best that the industry has to offer, it was a night that had stellar collections in quick succession.

The buzz and energy was infectious as the venue bubbled over with people, and the vibe energetic from the fresh pool of talent that always astounds one as they hit the ramp.


 

Adnan Pardesy

Adnan Pardesy gave denim a new dimension and life previously unknown in fashion. A ubiquitous fabric, but notoriously difficult to fashion well, Pardesy proved his mettle as a designer who has command over his craft and created his most wearable collection to date. To use denim to create garments that correspond to dominant trends in pret wear like the flowing kameez with a floating hemline was sheer genius. He used the age old techniques of pleating and pin-tucks but added interlocking and zippers to add more texture to his garments. The zips added to the construction of the garments, such as a full skirt and a kameez with adjustable lengths on the sides by either taking the zip up or down. This ingenious technique allowed garments to be more than just what they were fashioned out as; treat each piece as you wish.

Personal favourite: 

The skirt and kameez with zips along the sides.

Trend alert: 

Denim churidaar.

Crimson by Ali Xeeshan

Always over the top and flamboyant, Ali Xeeshan never compromises on the outlandish grandeur of his presentation. But even as he debuted, one wondered, if he would ever be able to make clothes? His last collection ‘The Pheonix’ quenched all doubts when he worked with crushed fabric and innovative cuts to present a prêt savvy line of tops and kaftans. Yet apart from his psychedelic printed saris, his present collection did not offer many clothes. Yes there was a hint of The Pheonix with a crushed fabric maxi dress and a few voluminous pieces that combined his peacock screen prints and shawl fabric with the crushed fabric, but on the whole there was nothing remarkably new for Xeeshan to offer except for the few pieces of bridal wear that he added from his line for Crimson. The styling of the show, as always, was incredibly flashy and given Xeeshan’s creativity in this department one wishes he would venture into making accessories and lend a hand to primping collections for the other designers at fashion week to add a bit of the ‘razzle dazzle’ he possesses.

Personal favourite:

Bringing the veil back for brides -- instead of a cloistering cloth veil, a sheer net one that adds to the radiance of a bridal ensemble.

Trends:

A sheer ‘paloo’ (sari trail) beneath a printed one, as a double ‘paloo’ on a sari.

TeeJays

To resolutely work with local fabrics and just cotton bare of any embellishment, to create ensembles that exemplify ‘awami’ cool and yet have the ability to reign at any ramp or red carpet, is nothing short of sheer genius. With each showing, Feeha Jamshed has consistently proved how well she deserves her father, Tanvir Jamshed’s mantle to carry his mission of affordable fashion for the masses. Relying only on cuts and silhouettes, Jamshed is a master craftsman who spins trends with each piece that she artfully creates. Whether its initiating the jumpsuit back into the Pakistani fashion scene or bringing wide palazzos to merrily co-exist with the latest obsession of churidaars, or predicting the print on print trend even before it hit the global catwalk -- Jamshed has a real pulse on fashion, on what is relevant now, and how to make it our own. With this collection entitled Freedom, Jamshed has given women the freedom to wear what they please: pants, shalwars, tunics, maxis and even ghararas.

Personal favourite: 

A virgin white cotton gharara cum cargo pants ensemble.

Trend Alert: 

Cotton ghararas; buttons lined on the side of a tunic; wearing a button down kameez the other way around, with the collar and buttons at the back instead of the front.

FnkAsia

A brand that has consistently worked towards the development of true street wear, FnkAsia presented its most coherent collection to date. It was fun and spot on with trends for the season. Carrying forth from its last showing at fashion week in Islamabad, the brand presented a wide spectrum of colours and designs, particularly with a focus on providing multiple options in lowers.

Personal favourite: 

The printed bubble poncho and the marigold body-suit.

Trend alert: 

Detailing and embellishment on the ends of the churidaar.

Ammar Belal

To survive creatively and business wise for someone like Ammar Belal who steers away from gauche bling and traditional wear, is a mammoth task. Yet Belal manages it with such grace to represent collection after collection of unconventional clothing that push boundaries of style without compromising his design philosophy. In his most wearable collection for the Pakistani market, he picked up on the oft used safari theme but ensured that it remained true to his aesthetic. Structured and safari chic, he also dabbled in equestrian fashion and worked with linens, cottons and suede to give a unique twist to how a tryst in Africa would be ala Ammar Belal.

Personal favourite: 

Sequined tights in leopard spots.

Trend Alert: 

Safari suits for women with suede accents.

HSY

A master showman, Hasan Sheheryar Yasin understands the business of glamour and fashion like none other. Incredibly suave and an astute business man, he has built a brand that personifies traditional glam. As a choreographer he knows how to put up a show and enthrall audiences. With HSY, one always expects fireworks and he never disappoints. With a live DJ and drum beats, HSY took us on a Voyage Nationale that depicted the various crafts of Pakistan; an apt move to do so just when the PFDC has also begun to work with local artisans through a Saarc initiative titled Sabah. In line with the philosophy of strengthening livelihood programs, HSY also dexterously used the Swati hand embroidered bags by Krizmah to accessorise his collection. However despite all these efforts, it was clear that HSY is a brand that makes breathtaking bridals but cannot merge quintessential local craft like mirror work very well onto garments. The brand stands for opulence and the crafted embellishments stuck out like a sore thumb on otherwise luxurious garments. What did work though was the incorporation of phulkari on the sherwani as well as traditional bolero on a sequined pop orange jump suit.

Personal favourite: 

A royal purple gown with cut work motifs all along the skirt.

Trend alert: 

Coats on saris.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 03rd, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Spring Festival at Grandeur’s door step</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/141093/spring-festival-at-grandeur%e2%80%99s-door-step</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/141093/spring-festival-at-grandeur%e2%80%99s-door-step#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Fri, 01 Apr 11 18:48:53 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[saadia.qamar]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[The fashion exhibition at Grandeur continues till Saturday, April 2.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Neshmia Ahmed’s Grandeur celebrates Spring Festival. The gallery, which usually exhibits art, this time brought forward the work of up-and-coming fashion designers on Thursday evening, March 31.


The designers whose works were exhibited were relatively new in the industry with one exception of Shafaq Habib, the jewellery designer based in Lahore.

The visitors who thronged Grandeur flocked to Habib’s jewellery designs. The stalls displaying fashion collections were hardly noticed by the attendees. Habib’s jewellery featured an intricate blend of deep gold, encrusted mostly with turquoise or white pearls which charmed everyone, young and old alike.

Sanam Qureshi, who is set to get married in July, said: “I love jewels. Whenever Shafaq Habib is in town, I try to buy something from her exhibition. Now that I am getting married this year, I  plan to buy more for the wedding.”

Talking to The Express Tribune, Habib said: “My designs are unique and the colour combinations are different.”

Giving details of the gems used in her designs, Habib said: “The stones come from around the world, but most of the pearls used are from Japan.”

Commenting on the issue of piracy, she said: “My designs are being copied excessively in the market but a copy is a copy and the original is something totally different.”

Habib went to Egypt in November last year and about 40 of her designs exhibited at the event had their inspirations from the same place.

Other fashion designer labels at the event included Fida Arshad, Nadia Rehan, 4tu by Umbreen &amp; Arooj and Jashan by Javeria Khan; however, the labels offered nothing unique.

Of the collections exhibited, two things stood out: The tunics by Jazz and Syshara clutches.

Ayesha Bhagat of Syshara said: “I am a designer by passion. I have exhibited my clutches and bags, but I plan to pursue my passion further and get involved in designing shoes now.” Bhagat’s collection comprised of formal and bridal clutches.

Sharing her thoughts on the exhibit, Bhagat said: “At the exhibition itself, there has been a good amount of sales and I am hoping that the business venture will grow.”

Tunics by Jazz is run by Yasmin Ali Zaidi and started off in Dubai in 2009. About her label, Zaidi said: “I believe tunics are a global trend. I focus on tops because I personally feel one can repeat jeans or trousers, but one must have a new top for every occasion!”

Unlike many other designers, Zaidi sees a future of fashion here in Pakistan and has moved to Karachi with the intention of expanding her clientele base.

The exhibition is open for general public till this evening, April 2, at Grandeur gallery located in Zamzama.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 02nd, 2011.]]>
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			<title>PFDC day two: All frill no thrill</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/141118/pfdc-day-two-all-frill-no-thrill</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/141118/pfdc-day-two-all-frill-no-thrill#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Fri, 01 Apr 11 18:13:01 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
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				<![CDATA[Day two didn’t quite have the buzz of fashion week, live qawaali from Imran Aziz Mian made the evening bearable.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Day two didn’t quite have the buzz of fashion week, but, the divinely decorated French vanilla Karma cupcakes in the front row and a spectacular Eden erected on stage made up for the dull environment.

While we pretend we didn’t even notice who or what Sarah Salman did, let’s at least acknowledge the live qawaali of Imran Aziz Mian that made the whole experience of watching a redundant Asifa and Nabeel collection more palatable.  Following are those who made it to our fashion desire list.


Karma: Girls just wanna have fun

Fantastical and magical with bubbles floating in the air and a make shift garden in bloom, Karma utilised the ramp to create the perfect childhood dream that brought Elizbeth Lawrence’s following quote to life: “There is a garden in every childhood, an enchanted place where colours are brighter, the air is softer, and the morning more fragrant as ever.” As a celebration of Maheen Kardar’s growth as a mother alongside the development of her brand Karma, the show began in the most endearing manner with socialite’s and fashionable mothers, and their little girls walking the ramp hand in hand with flowers in their hair and baskets with bouquets in their hands. In a show of fashion solidarity designers Maria B and Sara Shahid, models Natasha Hussain and Fia, shared the ramp with their little ones. The whole presentation was very sweet and nostalgic as models pranced, danced, kissed and hugged recreating the adage that ‘girls just wanna have fun.’

When the euphoria of the dream waned away, it was clear that Karma may have grown as a business with multiple extensions as Karma Red, Pink and Princess, but the design sense had remained stagnant. The clothes appeared mostly as Barbie’s costumes but then who doesn’t want to dress up like Barbie? From the fashion presentation standpoint Kardar had thrown in many pieces together that had to be deconstructed, according to one’s personal taste, and then each piece taken as a separate. Given the theme of the show however, the pairing worked.

Personal favourite: 

Denim encrusted with crystal princess motifs and floral print pockets and the styling of the segment.

 

Trend alert: 

Sequined flared bottoms in bright hues.

 

Asifa and Nabeel: Enough of shaadi wear at fashion week!

Asifa and Nabeel simply recreated what they sell: Clothes that women who aren’t terribly conscious about making a true fashion statement would wear at weddings just to fit in with the general trends of the floating hemlines and angharkhas. Theirs are clothes that don’t particularly belong on a fashion week ramp and should be reserved for showings at bridal events which is where their true market is.  

Personal favourite: 

None. 

Trend alert: 

None.

Akif Mehmood: Rustic cool

His inspirations may come from the underlings of society, but he’s definitely not one himself. Akif Mehmood (along with his compatriot, the maverick, Mohsin Ali), are set to rule the industry. If you have Hilary Alexander — fashion writer for The Telegraph, nodding perceptively, then you certainly have made it. While Mehmood’s debut Kalash collection flooded publications, his second offering shows equal promise of warming the most frigid of fashion critics. Creating a patchwork of indigenous fabrics and juxtaposing it with civilisation motifs and upholstery fabric, Mehmood  stayed true to his aesthetic of looking inward and creating pieces that are truly Pakistani. The general look of the collection in terms of the cuts and silhouettes was reminiscent of his previous work, but that’s just fine for a raw designer trying to gain a foothold in the industry.

Personal favourite: 

The well structured coats both short and long, lined with desi patterned fabric, ensure the winters won’t be drab.

Trend Alert: 

Pockets strategically used on the behind and front of coats; the use of upholstery fabric for skinny pants and coats.

Rizwanullah: Fashion and drama, two sides of the same coin

Rizwanullah exemplifies what it means to be ‘in fashion’, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that you should also be able to make good clothes. Always out to shock audiences with his personal style and grooming, Rizwanullah managed to deliver two interesting collections previously with henna embossed on garments and a monotone tribute to the urban violence of Karachi. With his third showcase of a unisex collection, he seemed a bit all over the place with what he wanted to put across. It was a haphazard show of grungy black short dresses and slashed tights along with a ‘ralli’ gharara and wedding wear derived from Sindhi dastarkhans and truck art motifs and embroidery which someone aptly commented as Deepak Perwani meets Gulabo.

Personal favourite: 

The top with keys and other hardware dangling and the ‘ralli’ gharara.

Trend alert: 

Using ‘ralli’ bed spreads to craft garments . The sindhi dastarkhan emblems foray into shaadi wear, particularly, for mehendi’s.

Republic: The gentlemen’s club

With impeccable taste, elegant tailoring and a pulse on international trends, Republic has consistently proven to be ‘the’ brand for the dandy in all men. Crisp, sleek and sophisticated, Republic encourages men to experiment, but knows exactly to what extent the average modern man is willing to extend his wings into the unchartered territory of personal styling. While the brand took risks with colours at its last showing, their autumn/winter 2011 collection, the looks were more restrained inspired from the 30s quiet grunge.

Personal favourite: 

Animal skin bags and travel totes spell taste like none other when it comes to men.

Trend Alert: 

Skinny leather pants; quilted jacket juxtaposed with fabric for a coat on coat look; leather bands on cuffs.

Sara Salman: An uninspiring recall to the vintage

Sarah Salman took us back to the 1940s and it was a memory that didn’t quite bring back any desire to revisit the past. With garments that were so passe with mirror work on white, the collection offered nothing new. The fact that the designer didn’t even walk onto ramp wearing her creation but let her daughters wear them was a perplexing statement in itself. 

Personal favourite: 

None.

Trend alert: 

The cuffed churidaar.

Sadaf Malaterre: Trembling romance

Sadaf Malaterre went monotone after her previous rainbow showings which may have been a great thing since she was able to effectively demonstrate her skill of crafting a killer dress. Draped, sexy and feminine, each dress was an ode to the woman who needs no overt fashion statement to express her sensuality. And with gentle specks of crystals sprinkled along hemlines, Malaterre presented the perfect ethereal collection that personified the unique paradox of trembling fragility and personal strength of the cosmopolitan woman.

Personal favourite: 

The toga-esque short dress that requires oodles of grace and elegance to pull off.

Trend Alert: 

A sequined halter sneaking through a sheer, soft coloured full sleeved top.

Khaadi: Nothing khaas 

You could be forgiven for thinking that Shamoon Sultan used his finale show mostly, and quite unfairly, as a launching pad for his lawn, while textile gurus like Al Karam and Gul Ahmed were given designated spots in the afternoon to showcase their lawns at the voile shows. This is not to say that he didn’t do a good job — he did. In his classic Khaadi boho-desi-chic styling. The initial pieces that took to the ramp continued the tradition of controlled and sophisticated bohemia and offered an array of 70s attire: jumpsuits, summer dresses, kaftans.

 

Personal favourite: 

A belted rainbow top heavily embellished with hand embroidery ala Khaadi style.

Trend alert:

Sheer chiffon cover ups and boleros instead of dupattas; multiple hemlines akin to a peasant skirt/dress.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 02nd, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Fashion Exclusive: The Ultimate Merger</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/140527/fashion-exclusive-the-ultimate-merger</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/140527/fashion-exclusive-the-ultimate-merger#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Thu, 31 Mar 11 18:31:03 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[express]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[Lahore based Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) and Karachi based Fashion Pakistan (FP) to become one.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Day two of the PFDC Fashion Week 2011 has brought in startling news of the merger of the two fashion councils that represent the fashion industry in Pakistan, the Lahore based Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) and Karachi based Fashion Pakistan (FP).

One Council To Represent All
Chairperson of the Executive Committee of PFDC, Sehyr Saigol, and the newly appointed CEO of FP Amir Adnan have joined hands to announce that the two councils will now be working from a single platform named All Pakistan Fashion Council (APFC)
Fashion First

Speaking to media personnel, Saigol explained, “All the designers are part of the Pakistani fashion community, the APFC will provide a platform for them on the whole. We need to bring in business for our fashion industry through our fashion weeks. Previously, with so many fashion weeks per year, we were just holding star studded events that rake in money for advertisers, hoteliers and the media — but not for fashion”

Gulabo Ka Libas

This news is bound to reshape the fashion industry as we know it. To mark this merger, the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week has decided to end with a grand finale show that will jointly showcase Saigol’s Libas and Maheen Khan’s Gulabo, which industry veterans have affectionately termed ‘Gulabo Ka Libas’

All Pakistan Fashion Council

CEO

Maheen Khan

Chairperson for life

Mohsin Sayeed


CEO

Sehyr Saigol

Board Members

Hassan Shehryar Yasin

Nomi Ansari

Sonya Batla

Sana Hashwani

Maria Butt

Maheen Kardar

Shela Chatoor

Rizwan Beyg

Shamaeel Ansari Umar Sayeed

Secretary

Frieha Altaf

Public Relations officer

Aamina Haider Isani


Published in The Express Tribune, April 01st, 2011.

Update April 4, 2011: This report was a hoax as part of an April Fool's day prank.]]>
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			<title>For a perfect wedding, Bridal Couture Week continues</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/139946/for-a-perfect-wedding-bridal-couture-week-continues</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/139946/for-a-perfect-wedding-bridal-couture-week-continues#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Wed, 30 Mar 11 18:47:08 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[saadia.qamar]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[Karachi will host Style360 Bridal Couture Week II, to be held between April 22 and April 24 at the Expo Centre,]]>
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				<![CDATA[Fashion is really on a roll. With half the industry designing lawn (the exhibitions aren’t over), the third instalment of PFDC fashion week kicked off yesterday.


Style360 Bridal Couture Week 2, 2011 (BCW2) has been planned for April this year. This time, the city of Karachi will host the event scheduled between April 22 and April 24 at the Expo Centre, according to a press briefing held on Monday, March 28, at the Pearl Continental Hotel, Karachi.

Speaking at the press conference, Duraid Qureshi, CEO, Hum Network said: “Weddings hold a special place in our culture. My wedding was relatively a simple affair but, in today’s world, it has to be a perfect. From jewellery to designers, to event planners, everyone is involved in making it a big event.”

Qureshi further stated: “We have been encouraged by the response received at BCW1 held in Lahore last year, which is why we now plan to have it here in Karachi.  18 - 20 fashion designers will be participating in the bridal week. Apart from this, the general public, too, will be welcomed to participate in various activities taking place at this mega event.”

Spotted at the event was model and designer Vaneeza Ahmed Ali. As general manager Style360, she will be involved in the production and choreography of the event. Sharing more details with The Express Tribune, Ali said: “The event will bring forth new and exciting trends that will come about this season. People will get a chance to interact with designers and other people associated with the bridal industry.”

Bushra Iqbal, Brand Manager Pantene said: “The tagline for this years event remains ‘For a Perfect Wedding’. This event will ensure that what a girl really dreams of having on her wedding day can come true and get what it really takes to make a wedding perfect. BCW1 was a huge success. This one will definitely be a mega event. It will give people a recipe for making their own, or their children’s wedding, a success.”

Compared to India where the bridal industry stands at $23 billion today, Pakistan is yet to acknowledge the commercial streak of weddings on which a huge amount is spent every year. BCW2 will provide a great platform to the general public to mingle with jewellery designers, fashion designers, event planners and caterers.

 Published in The Express Tribune, March 31st, 2011.]]>
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			<title>First day first show : Sunsilk Fashion Week</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/139906/first-day-first-show-sunsilk-fashion-week</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/139906/first-day-first-show-sunsilk-fashion-week#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Wed, 30 Mar 11 18:46:09 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[No showings on the second day of the Sunsilk Fashion Week to respect Pakistan India World Cup semi final match.]]>
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				<![CDATA[There was none of the hoopla and eager anticipation that invariably accompanies the opening night of a fashion week as the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) Sunsilk Fashion Week commenced at the cusp of the Pakistan India World Cup semi-final in Lahore. Designers and fashion journalists had already given their ultimatum that there would be no showing (and certainly no viewing either) on the designated second day of the week that clashed with the epic match. And the spill-over effects of that nervous alacrity could be felt as the PFDC’s round three began in a rather damp manner.

Nikki Nina

It is has become customary, it seems, for Nikki Nina to open the event each time and while one expects the brand to falter every time, its spring/summer 2011 collection pleasantly surprised us all. Retaining their general aesthetic of combining block prints with indigenous embroideries culled from Sindh in their signature palette of black, green and fuschia, the collection came together beautifully in a harmony that would previously get smothered under confused styling (Fez hats from last year anyone?) and jarring designs. After two ungainly attempts at fashion weeks, the label may just emerge this year with a solid identity and even dictate trends with the striking sheer block print churidaar with muted gold embellishments at the edges, amongst an array of lowers like harem pants and the dhoti shalwar, and the double kameez with a shorter hemline on top of a longer one.

Verdict:

Yet in spite of finally creating a collection worthy of the ramp, why will these women not wear their own clothes for the final walk, particularly when they have eventually managed to get it right?

 

 

Yahsir Waheed

Yahsir Waheed rose to critical acclaim in their previous showings but completely lost the plot in round three. Waheed shot himself in the foot with his Gandhara inspired velcro jumpsuits, the 80s awami shalwar kameez and summer dresses that attempted a play on fabric and textures but just got it all wrong by trying to show a collection that was neither autumn/winter and not quite spring/summer either..

Verdict:

From a designer as seasoned as Waheed, one expected a lot more than merely pasting a large Buddha face at the back of capes and hoodies. 

 

Sublime

Sara Shahid of Sublime closed for the night in a vibrant carnival of colour reminiscent of Basant in yellows and oranges that celebrated every kind of Pakistani woman: the veiled and the unveiled. The message of a peaceful coexistence for both kinds of women in tolerance and harmony was reflective in the spectrum of attire that Sublime offered: a summer dress, a halter top, a kameez and even a burqa- but all drenched in colour. 

Verdict:

But, if only, Shahid would have experimented more with cuts, she needs to push her creative boundaries, a showcase of floor length gowns in single tones took away from the profound impact that her burqas had made. 

 

 

Saai

Sahar Atif’s label Saai came into the spotlight for reviving traditional crafts such as chikan kari in a more contemporary aesthetic. While her last showing focused on texture and creating meticulously pleated fabric, she went back to her intended focus of revival of craft in her third fashion week showing to bring kashmiri embroideries to the fore. To dramatise the collection for the ramp, Atif crafted garments around orbits ala Judy Jetson.  

Verdict:

The idea was novel and could have worked as a unique amalgamation of futuristic fashion with traditional craft but it just didn’t come together as coherently as it should have with the cut work and mediocre finishing. Even the pertinent choice of the rustic Arieb Azhar fell flat with the hall acoustics.

The young blood

 

While the more established names demonstrated hits and misses, it was the younger lot that made one sit-up and notice the exciting direction in which Pakistani fashion is heading. Each is distinct in their own way, the new fashion brood: Muse, Fahad Hussayn, Burhan Khan, Zaheer Abbas and the brightest of them all, Mohsin Ali, stole the night with their inventiveness.

&nbsp;

Muse

Muse retained its minimalistic chic look by focusing on effective colour blocking and pleating ala Issey Miyake that lent structure to the whole collection. With immaculate tailoring and finishing, the brand made its mark for clothes that were clean and sleek and personified elegance for the woman who truly understands that less is more. 

 

Zaheer Abbas

One wished however that Zaheer Abbas’s collection wasn’t so reminiscent of Adnan Pardesy’s ‘Plathonic’ that for a moment made one question whether Pardesy is showing his previous collection again. But, while Pardesy relied entirely on quilting for its powerful effect, Abbas made the collection more wearable and incorporated elements such as draping with volumes of fabric, from his first showing at the Fashion Pakistan Week.

Sublime offered a summer dress, a halter top, a kameez and even a burqa- but all drenched in colour. 

 

Beekay

BeeKay’s ingenuity could be seen in how effectively he managed to curtail the urge to go wild with a punk, goth, tar collection that was replete with jackets, hoods and leather boots with models stomping onto the ramp to disturbingly mind numbing eerie music. This is the kind of edgy fashion that no one has attempted so far — given Burhan Khan’s controlled construction; he is bound to go far in providing appropriate clothing for boys like himself who cannot do the ‘nicey-nice’ fashion. 

 

Fahad Hussayn

Fahad Hussayn and new kid on the block, Burhan Khan of BeeKay, both did a purely raven collection that was edgy and rock chic in their own distinct way. While Hussayn used his classic black and gold pallete with his signature motifs, he added gold origami flowers to encrust his garments. Always theatrical and towards the macabre, Hussayn doesn’t become morbid even though he did showcase a model completely sheathed ala McQueen. There are always layers of meaning in Hussayn’s work, which he symbolically demonstrated as a model did a strip tease of sorts as a glove flung here, and a jacket flung there over the audience’s heads. 

 

 

Mohsin Ali

If there was one collection that wowed us that night, it was Mohsin Ali’s. His show was spectacular, with a collection that carried delicious coats and cover ups in pop orange and mustard, lined with Ali’s personal obsession of ‘razai’ fabrics. Generally considered as gauche and gaudy, razai fabrics have hardly made a successful transition into high fashion, but with Ali’s magical touch it becomes alluring in its contrasting shiny vitality. From his crushed fabric togas and tops to his khaddar under shirts and asymmetrical thick coats, what was remarkable about the collection was that it could easily be replicated for the spring/summer with its array of colour and ingenious construction.

Closing the show with a dramatic presentation of fashion’s most exciting couple; designer and model Rizwanullah and model Fayeza Ansari, Ali demonstrated his feel for the local fashion industry and showed that with his insight and creative acumen, he is set to be in line with the titans. This one’s for the urban gypsy lurking in us all, begging us to shed our cloaks of conventionality. Now, if only, one would have also been given a press kit with the show. 

Published in The Express Tribune, March 31st, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Green fever</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/138965/green-fever</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/138965/green-fever#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Mon, 28 Mar 11 18:02:47 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[ali.usman]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[Ali Usman searches for the best seats from where to watch the match between Pakistan and India can be found in Lahore.]]>
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				<![CDATA[March 30, the day of what promises to be a historic match between India and Pakistan, stirs furious debate everywhere. Who is better positioned to annihilate the other? Should work places remain open? While the first won’t be answered till the final wicket stands, in answer to the second, India has already declared the day of the match an official half day. Closer to home, most businesses plan to remain closed. Even PFDC Fashion Week has been delayed by a day in consideration of the match. So now, the burning question arises, where to watch the match?


In Lahore, Ahmad Hasan, a cricket fan, has arranged a private screening of the Pak-India semi final match on a projector. Hasan is not alone to have arranged a live screening of one of the most crucial matches in cricket history.

“Watch the Pakistan-India semi final at Maisonette Platinum Hall. Air conditioned hall, hi-tea, DJ, underground bands, face paintings, food stalls, discount coupons.” This is what a message from Ahmad Hasnain reads, who has also arranged a live screening of the semi final. Cricket fever is at an all time high and many are terming the Pakistan-India game  ‘a final before the final’, while doctors and psychologists fear an increase in the number of high blood pressure cases, heart attacks and, in the worst case scenario, divorces.

The cinemas in Lahore, however, have responded to this problem well and major cinemas in the city will not screen any film on the day of semi-final. In a rare move, all these cinemas will host ticketed live screenings of the semi-final.

“Nobody wants to watch a film on the day of the semi-final. Even the most die-hard fans of the cinema are dreaming about the Pak-India cricket match where even Prime Minister Yousaf Raza Gillani will accompany his Indian counterpart Manmohan Singh. Major cinemas including Sozo World, DHA Cinema, Cine Star and Metropole Cinema have decided to screen the Pak-India match on Wednesday, March 30. The screening will be ticketed, I feel people will have more fun watching cricketers in action on the silver screen rather than watching showbiz stars,” All Pakistan Cinema Management Association Chairman Qaiser Sanaullah told The Express Tribune.

Event manager Husna Khan, who has also arranged a live screening of the match, said, “A lot of celebrities including Sophia Mirza, Tony and several others are expected to come to watch the match at the screening that I am arranging. Everybody will watch the match while wearing green shirts to support the Pakistan team. The cricket fever is at an all time high, but I think people shouldn’t take the match as war, rather they should take it as the game it is. Yes, emotions are running high, but taking the game as a game is perhaps the best thing one can do to support the players who are already under immense pressure.”

Public screenings of the semi-final match serve not only to add to the fun, psychologists believe they can also help avoid many untoward incidents. Speaking to The Express Tribune, psychologist Amjad Tufail said, “It is very helpful if people watch this semi-final in groups. We fear greater chances of heart attacks, depression and even divorces on that day. If someone watches the match in a group or with friends and family, he/she keeps diffusing the anxiety by talking. Things as simple as discussing of different shots in a critical situation during a match are very effective in tackling tension and anxiety. My younger son takes cricket very seriously and often gets depressed if our team doesn’t do well. On the day of the semi-final, I plan to watch the entire match with him to keep him cool and relaxed. This exercise is helpful for all, and I think public screenings are a good solution to the tension problem as far as this semi final is concerned”.

Only time will reveal the victors of this match. What one does know, however, is that the hype of this match will always be remembered in the history of cricket and entertainment.

Published in The Express Tribune, March 29th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Wild cards of PFDC fashion week</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/138062/wild-cards-of-pfdc-fashion-week</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/138062/wild-cards-of-pfdc-fashion-week#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sat, 26 Mar 11 16:31:33 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[With PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week at the cusp of commencing its third round, ET combs the fashion week’s host city.]]>
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				<![CDATA[With the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) Sunsilk Fashion Week at the cusp of commencing its third round, The Express Tribune combs the fashion week’s host city, Lahore for its most exciting talents. Fresh off the board, these designers are incidentally all male, with unique design sensibilities and are set to prove their distinctive mettle in a fashion week studded with fashion bigwigs.


Who: Ali Xeeshan

Background:
Quirky and fun, Ali Xeeshan was a breath of fresh air wafting away the stale stench of overdone looks the year he debuted in 2009. Although he showed a supremely extravagant Mughal inspired dramatic collection, he fine-tuned himself at his third showing with ‘The Phoenix’ that saw Xeeshan rise as a talent that one could possibly bank on. This time around he intends to demonstrate that he’s not all theatrics but means business as well. With a collection titled ‘The Paradox’ — a tribute to the PFDC as a platform for fashion talent. “From the flamboyance of HSY to the simplicity of Saai, the collection is a personal celebration as well, of my own growth as a designer in the past year,” says Xeeshan of his inspiration. He had introduced an entire line of funky crushed tops last time and will incorporate elements of the same since he intends on launching himself in Lahore, Karachi, Islamabad, Dubai and India simultaneously in April.

What to watch out for:
Psychedelic prints and embroidered shawls utilised craftily in clothes that are flamboyant, fun and very local.  

Who: Akif Mehmood

Background: 

There is absolutely no way one could have missed out on Akif Mehmood’s Kalash collection which was plastered in every publication that covered fashion week in its last round. Immensely popular, the collection had a raven canvas to display Kalash’s embroidered traditions. It catapulted Mehmood into the fore of fashion that got the young graduate to designing the line for PFDC’s chair person, Sehyr Saigol’s  Libas. However unlike fashions other two finds, Mohsin and Xeeshan, Mehmood represents a calmness that despite this winning debut collection, had many fashion insiders fear he might just be a one hit wonder. Retaining the structure that his clothes had with the ‘Kalash’ collection, Mehmood is set to prove the skeptics wrong with his latest offering that focuses on gypsies and beggar women. Although he’s chosen an oft used theme, he is confident that his styling and use of fabric will make it distinctively ‘Akif’. Unlike the previous showing the emphasis this time is on the fabric instead of the embellishment.

What to watch out for:
A distinguishing patchwork of fabrics and textures that lend the label ‘Akif’ its very Pakistan feel.

 

 

Who: Mohsin Ali

Background: 

“I can’t do pretty, pretty fashion. It makes me ill,” exclaims Mohsin Ali whose thesis ‘Homeless Hazara’ earned him recognition as a designer who went back to his roots and presented a relevant social commentary via clothes that are indigenous and idiosyncratic. Mixing fabrics that one normally discards as clothing for the poor and bringing nomads in their true form to the ramp, Mohsin made his mark as a creative maverick who always made clothes that reflected his identity: “I want my clothes to project who I am and where I’m coming from,” he asserts. This time around Mohsin intends to spin a weave on ‘Fables and Dreams’ by retaining his individual aesthetic but molding it towards a western feel. “These are clothes for the woman who is patriotic but has accepted globalization,” concludes Mohsin of his autumn/winter offering.

What to watch out for:
The use of ‘razai’ fabrics with hand woven ‘khaddars’ and motifs that symbolise the heritage of northern Pakistan.

 

 

Who: Burhan Khan

Background:
He’s worked with the Japanese designer, Aminaka Wilmont, shown at Barcelona Fashion week and twice at London Fashion Week and is set to bring a completely unexplored aesthetic to Pakistan. On the surface Khan’s work seems very ‘goth’, with Nirvana playing in the background in his studio and a black elephant husk in the lobe of one ear, you can be forgiven for thinking that he might take a turn for the macabre, but that would be too simplistic and not seeing Khan’s true intentions.  Although Khan says that he is “inspired by a lot of weird things” the looks for his purely tar collection are not as crazy as one would assume. Yes there are zips and hoods, but they are so well-structured they can be intense as well as temperate. The ability to restrain the urge to go crazy ala McQueen is what impresses one about Khan.

What to watch out for:
A variety of different lowers and jackets. Post apocalyptic and futuristic.

Published in The Express Tribune, March 27th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Size does matter</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/135928/size-does-matter</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/135928/size-does-matter#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Mon, 21 Mar 11 16:48:40 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[A new multi-label store housing 40 designer brands is launched in Lahore.]]>
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				<![CDATA[With fashion on an all time high, the concept of the multi-label store has also faced a sudden explosion. Labels in Karachi may have pioneered the trend more than a decade ago, but with the fashion councils firmly establishing their tentacles on the business of fashion, they each now have their own self titled stores to boot: Fashion Pakistan Lounge and PFDC The Boulevard.

In came a franchise from across the border as Ensemble and yet another store with roots in Karachi, The Designers. The idea of a multi-brand store may appear run of the mill to many, yet the room for expansion still exists, and it is on this leap of faith that Ali Raza of the brand ‘Crimson’, gave his multi tiered store a complete over haul to accommodate an impressive list of 40 designers from Karachi and Lahore. From creative maestros like Athar and Sabeen and Ali Xeeshan to stalwarts like Rizwan Beyg, Portfolio is an ambitious undertaking of a vast stock of fashion’s crop.  “I am not a designer,” says Raza.

“I am a business man and understand that in every industry there are certain models for success. For fashion at the moment, the business model of the multi label store is it. There are 10 million people in Lahore and just two multi-label stores. So, room for expansion certainly exists.” While it seems that this ubiquitous business model may implode, something as basic and key as location may become the cornerstone to success for Portfolio. “It’s all about the quantity of designers showcased and how one can control the quality of their output that will determine the success for any store,” says Raza.

So far none of the multi- label stores are situated at the heart of MM Alam road. The new Vogue Towers is boasting of opening soon.

Its chic and sprawling interiors, along with a selection of designers that offer a wide selection of causal and formal pret, with a designated section for men’s ‘sherwani’s’, Portfolio is set to be a trousseau mall unto itself. “We are just making the market more competitive by creating a space where designers will rub shoulders with all kinds of talent young and old. Whosoever can impress a buyer with their product and price will sell,” says Raza. “It’s all about providing the perfect product in a stimulating environment.”

Yet what is remarkable is that someone as young and raw as Ali Xeeshan was single handedly managing Raza’s previous enterprise ‘Crimson’. While formerly the brand occupied the premises entirely, it will now just have its own upper level.

Such trust in the capabilities of a novice is quite surprising. “Xeeshan can handle my team better than I can,” explains Raza, adding astutely that there will be no conflict of interest and design, citing the examples of Karl Lagerfield for ‘Chanel’ and Tom Ford for ‘Gucci’, who managed both tasks dexterously. Raza intends to launch Ali Xeeshan ‘properly’ he says, after the hooplah of the upcoming PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week dies down.

Published in The Express Tribune, March 22nd, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Trend report: Princely prints</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/134984/trend-report-princely-prints</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/134984/trend-report-princely-prints#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sat, 19 Mar 11 18:47:46 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[iman.pasha]]>
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				<![CDATA[Go wild with head-to-toe prints for maximum effect, or keep things subtle with just one or two patterned pieces.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Vibrant prints and quirky patterns ruled the spring summer catwalks injecting the runway with a healthy dose of much needed colour after a gloomy winter. 

Florals, fruit, animal, polka dot, digital and ethnic inspired prints all cropped up, making this the best time to dig out a few old favorites from seasons past. With PFDC fashion week round the corner promising exclusive voile shows and lawn exhibits causing traffic jams; go wild with head-to-toe prints for maximum effect, or keep things subtle with just one or two patterned pieces.

The young and the brave

Nomi Ansari and Wardha Saleem: With a colour sense that could make a rainbow shy both these designers recently unleashed their psychedelic lawn prints. Ansari left no stone unturned with prints ranging from loud bold geometric designs to intricate filigree. Saleem and her love for all things bright was present not just in her print designs but in her catalogue and her striking billboards. So, for the young and vivacious these two designers are a safe bet.

Mary Katrantzou: Mary’s exquisite digital prints have made her one of the most in-demand designers around with collections stocked at the foremost designer emporiums and featured in every worthwhile fashion publication under the sun. This season the young designer brought stunning, interior-inspired prints in eye-catching summery shades.  She’s added a modern twist to ladylike style and has pieces to suit all body types. If you’re bold enough go for one of her sculptured pieces or mix a delicate print top with some elegant cigarette trousers.  Mary’s pieces are a sure shot way to set you apart from the crowd.

The bold and the beautiful:

Sana Safinaz and Gul Ahmed: Sana Safinaz is as much a brand as Gul Ahmed, and that’s not me making a tall claim, the designer duo proved their entrepreneurial prowess by launching their collection to packed halls at the Expo centre. Just that, in and of itself is a testament to the beauty of their designs. Although, textile giant GulAhmed didn’t form any designer alliance, they had multiple designers design garments using their fabric. The brand is a household name and the brand had a huge variety of prints … variety enough to please almost everyone.

Diane Von Furstenberg: Diane’s signature printed wrap dresses have always been a wardrobe essential amongst the fashion elite for decades, this season she pulled out all the stops to bring us some of the most vibrant prints seen. With the revival of her vintage collection, she has us all going gaga over her retro inspired collection. Offered in a variety of styles from jumpsuits, skirts, dresses to swimwear, we are spoilt for choice.

A variety of both body-conscious &amp; figure hugging shapes have been introduced. For those who don’t have the courage yet to pull of one of her signature prints, many fabulously on-trend printed accessories from bags to laptop cases are available.

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Iman’s Dos:


• Bright, colourful prints are the perfect summer statement

• Invest in printed trousers and wear with a simple t-shirt

• Clash colour’s and prints for the ultimate affect

• Print maxis are the best way to say cool and chic this summer

• Printed accessories are a hot statement this summer

Iman’s Don’ts:

• Invest in a printed jumpsuit if you’re on the voluptuous side. It will enhance the parts you hate

• Wear very loud prints if you’re petite. Find ones that don’t over take you.

• Buy printed jeans. There is nothing tackier

Published in The Express Tribune, March 20th, 2011.]]>
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