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			<title>PSFW: Reporting fashion — one tweet at a time</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/543500/psfw-reporting-fashion-one-tweet-at-a-time</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/543500/psfw-reporting-fashion-one-tweet-at-a-time#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Thu, 02 May 13 15:12:07 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[Salima Feerasta]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=543500</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[The major players of the show tweeting in real-time made virtual reporting a treat.]]>
			</description>
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				<![CDATA[A fashion week creates buzz like nothing else — the celebrities, the dramas, the gossip and of course the fashion. Reviewing it online via live stream and Twitter couldn’t be the same — I was expecting a very bland experience. No chats with the movers and shakers of the business, no people-watching and none of that peripheral experience that adds to the charm of a fashion week. How wrong I was!


Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) Sunsilk Fashion Week’s live streaming worked almost without a hitch, but what made the experience amazing was live tweeting from the venue. Lots of bloggers posted pictures of who was wearing what and also tweeted about the ambience. Most of the major players were tweeting in real-time during shows and this along, with private messages from close friends on-site, made virtual reporting a treat. The only thing I missed was trying out the Magnum bar and getting my hands on some of the goody bags.

https://twitter.com/andleebXPOZE/status/329202687897894912

PSFW was the most hyped fashion week of the year. Its stellar line up had fashion-lovers drooling and designers looking over their shoulders at the competition. Day 3, in particular, had Rizwan Beyg, SanaSafinaz, Layla Chatoor, Nida Azwer and Karma. Designers had to be on top of their game to make an impression.


Layla Chatoor , Karma. PHOTOS: SHIAFIQ MALIK/EXPRESS
So, the question is: did it live up to the hype? Not quite much! There was a lot to love about PSFW; although there was marvelous fashion, a few major names disappointed and there was a glaring divide that was hard to ignore. There was a huge gap between two distinct interpretations of what luxury prêt should be. For one camp luxury prêt was all about experimenting with prints, cuts and silhouettes. There was embellishment, but it definitely took a back seat. For others, however, luxury prêt was all about embroidery and bling — that, too, lots of it. For the Pakistani market, as a whole, neither camp was wrong but it made reviewing PSFW an uphill task — a case of comparing apples to oranges.

There were also several standout collections. Rizwan Beyg’s collection was one of the most stylish renditions of truck art ever.
https://twitter.com/tammyhaq/status/328511843259805696

SanaSafinaz’s sensual sophisticated collection, with Balenciaga-inspired jackets and embellished pants, was a major hit. Karma’s Art Deco Gatsby collection was cohesive, blingy and beautiful. It was also one of the best-styled ramp shows.

Fahad Hussayn and Ali Xeeshan, however, were a triumph of styling over everyone else. I loved what I could see of the clothes but the dramatics eclipsed the clothes to a degree. HSY’s show strayed into this territory though his glamorous sexy yet unmistakably Eastern prêt was a treat.



Élan’s opulent Oriental collection and Shehla Chatoor’s alluring Soigné collection were detailed and masterful. Sania Maskatiya and Maheen Karim produced brilliant chic resort collections. Layla Chatoor’s Ayesha collection was intricate and attractive, while Feeha Jamshed took black and white to a new level. Misha Lakhani’s styling lacked the wow factor but the clothes themselves were gorgeous.

There were flashes of brilliance from many of the other designers, but often there was a lack of cohesion and editing in their collections. The ramp is an unforgiving platform — the best collections stay true to their inspiration while showing variety and flair.

Unlike others I didn’t have much complaint about the fact that most of the clothes were not wearable. Ramp wear doesn’t really need to be wearable — it’s about showcasing a designer’s vision, craft and creativity. While Khaadi Khaas and Faiza Samee showed very wearable collections, others will no doubt tone down their collections for customers. Maskatiya, for example, will surely produce kameezes from her Aghaaz collection that will appeal more to her core clientele than the peep-shoulder tops would.

However, one major complaint that I had during the four days of fashion week was the lack of time keeping. It was practically midnight before the evening came to a close — every night. It was exhausting even from the comfort of my own home. For models photographers and press on site however it was a grueling four-day marathon.

Oxford-grad Salima Feerasta is a social commentator and lover of style in any form or fashion. She blogs at karachista.blogspot.com and tweets @karachista

Published in The Express Tribune, May 3rd, 2013.                       

Like Life &amp; Style on Facebook for the latest in fashion, gossip and entertainment.]]>
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			<title>Truck art, silhouettes and the Gatsby girls</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/542111/truck-art-silhouettes-and-the-gatsby-girls</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/542111/truck-art-silhouettes-and-the-gatsby-girls#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Mon, 29 Apr 13 16:23:05 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[momina.sibtain]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category><category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=542111</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Rizwan Beyg, SanaSafinaz and Karma bring out the glam.]]>
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				<![CDATA[The excitement and energy at Expo Centre mounts up as Day 3 of Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) Sunsilk Fashion Week kicks in. 

With HSY pumping the beats and team Lotus ushering everyone to their seats, Day 3 was exciting and fun, with some great collections.

[embed width="625"] http://vimeo.com/65044826 [/embed]


Zonia Anwaar



The designer’s Baronial Kremlin collection was highly safe and slightly bland. She had used a wide range of colours – from corals to the on trend green with cowl backs. However, the designer needs to experiment more. With her second year showing at PSFW one would expect this young designer to let loose and experiment with cuts and styles. While there was movement and fluidity in the fabrics she had used, the collection bored the audience, as there wasn’t any variation.

Rizwan Beyg



This designer’s collection paid homage to the artisans of Pakistan with a fantastically fun collection. Even though truck art is overdone and over with, Rizwan Beyg’s collection pumped new life into truck art. Thigh-high boots with intricate truck art done stole the show. While the gypsy style tunics ranged from vibrant solid colours, the spunk was added by the shoes and handbags. Beyg really pushed his boundaries and created an entire range of handbags and shoes. From peep toe sandals to sky-high wedges ­— he had it all. It is tough to use multiple loud colours together and pair them with loud accessories and still make it all work. The truck art satchel would have to be one of the most on trend accessory on the ramp.

Being one of the only designers so far to have presented a menswear line also, Beyg used the same truck art theme on leather pants, belts, briefcases and shoes. Beyg’s collection set the bar very high for the first act and sadly his creativity could not be matched.

Nida Azwer



She presented her 1880s-inspired collection using floral and animal motifs. With silk being her primary medium, Nida Azwer presented prints incorporating floral and animal motifs. One can never go wrong with Azwer’s prints – especially the ones with a Parisian or French aesthetic touch to them, which were pretty. Azwer has been known for her screen prints and block prints, but it will be interesting to see her incorporate more elements in her collection.

While the prints were funky, the cuts were safe and wearable. Overall, the collection was pleasing to the eye.

Mohsin Ali



The Nokia Fluorescent by Mohsin Ali closed the first act of the evening, but it was hard to figure out what was happening on the ramp. While the designer worked with geometric prints in neon and fluorescent colours, he had also used geometry in his cuts. With the exception of one well structured, monochromatic geometric, off-shoulder dress, the rest of the collection made one dizzy with busy prints. It was hard to digest that this collection came from Ali, who is known for making things work.

What killed some of the outfits would have to be the oversized embellished flowers, either on the back or the front of the outfits.

Layla Chatoor



Layla Chatoor opened her show with some pieces that would be better suited for bridal week than prêt but she moved into some printed silks and embellished outfits. Some snake print slithered its way onto some of the outfits but sadly, it just didn’t work.

From embellished capes to silk dresses, Chatoor’s line needed more structure and cohesiveness. Better luck next time.

Sana Safinaz



The duo opened the second act with a bang! With their new store already launched in Karachi, they are every girl’s newest best friend; offering clothes which might just kill. SanaSafinaz’s collection made you want to jump up-and-down gleefully. It was by far, the best collection of the second act of the evening with no one even coming close to stealing their thunder. This resort chic collection had it all, from peek-a-boo shoulders to over-extended bell sleeves with no fuss, clean cut designs that were stylish not just on the ramp but even on the street.

Hues of lime green, rust with black-and-white, SanaSafinaz had a loud floral/tribal-esque aesthetic touch to their collection.

Adnan Pardesy



Adnan Pardesy’s collection was by far one of the worst of the evening. Pardesy is known for his cuts and pleats and somehow everything in this collection was a miss. The designer presented multiple versions of white gowns with metallic accents. His collection titled Ellipsis was heartbreaking.

It did not make you wait for more or even for it to be continued.

Karma



The Gatsby collection by Karma was a breath of fresh air. The ’1920s romance came alive on the ramp as Maheen Kardar pushed her limits and put out one of the best collections the design house has ever created. With the exception of four outfits that pulled the collection down, Karma’s collection was flawless, innovative and uber trendy. The monochromatic embellished pants and dresses were dramatic, en vogue and very Gatsby! From the embellished head gear to the encrusted cigarettes Karma could do no wrong on the ramp. She had not just taken an idea but also understood the philosophy of the era she was representing and as a result put out a collection that was sound and very well thought-out.

Chunky pearls and diamantes, Karma had played around with a new aesthetic which worked for the design house.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 30th, 2013. 

Like Life &amp; Style on Facebook for the latest in fashion, gossip and entertainment.]]>
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			<title>PFDC Day 2: Slight lull in print fever [and fashion]</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/541721/pfdc-day-2-slight-lull-in-print-fever-and-fashion</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/541721/pfdc-day-2-slight-lull-in-print-fever-and-fashion#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sun, 28 Apr 13 17:11:04 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[momina.sibtain]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
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			<description>
				<![CDATA[Day 2 dipped in terms of the wow factor, but there were some interesting collections.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Day 2 at the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) Sunsilk Fashion Week had more misses than hits, and was  largely unexciting after a vibrant first day. 

Here’s the breakdown:


Feeha Jamshed



An ode to the classic black and white combo can only be so appetising, especially if it’s mostly light cotton fabric on a ramp that has seen some beautiful digital prints on silk. But among the shiny silks and carousel of colours, Feeha’s collection hit the spot by being edgy, wearable and well-stitched. Fusing ’50s and ’60s fashion with ’90s style, Feeha’s neatly tailored safari suits, dresses, shoulder-bearing tunics and funky pants made a fashion statement and were a refreshing break from printed silks and embellishments. There was even a lab coat-inspired shirt paired with a belt, echoing a signature Feeha Jamshed look of the wide silhouette narrowing at the waist in order to keep the outline feminine. Leather hints on pockets and jackets were interesting, and we wish that she had played with them some more. Standouts included skeletal cutout backs, a pair of futuristic silver harem pants and a funky pair of pants layered from thigh to ankle. The collection was a nice change from her jumpsuits which we loved but are bored with.

Ayesha Hashwani



Ayesha has set the bar high for herself when it comes to presenting fashionable collections. With excellent draperies, cuts and a knack for making her outfits work without making a fuss. She presented long bell sleeves, different coloured linings, monochromatic pants and tasseled fringes. While the collection was not cohesive, the shaded purple cape and pants with a tasseled fringe was simple, understated and stylish — easily the biggest hit of the collection.

Shehla Chatoor



Shehla’s prints and cuts lit the ramp on fire and set a high standard that some designers could not meet later on in the evening. The Greek-inspired collection had an entire set of dresses, togas and leather shorts. Lime green is the ‘it’ colour of the season and Shehla Chatoor made sure that this delicious green made a statement in her collection. Fia walked out wearing a gold mesh dress draped with lime green and detailed with gold leather. Peek-a-boo shoulders, wrap dresses and gladiator sandals completed the perfect resort collection.

Fahad Hussayn



It was high drama on the ramp for this designer, with a morbid, ghastly vibe delivered by eerie headpieces. Models balanced elaborately made headpieces with eagles and other small birds, as well as folded metal leaves that completely covered their eyes. The attractive digital prints in watery hues also incorporated birds’ wings on dresses, kimono-type shirts, chiffon dresses and jackets. While there was a lot of theatrical styling, the cuts and drapes were forgettable. What did stand out were the men’s waistcoats; digital prints in blues and greys on white, stitched neatly into fitted waistcoats. We can see fashion savvy ladies rocking these too! Fahad Hussayn’s showstopper was an over-the-top dress embellished with metal and which showed that he is not afraid to take risks but often ends up creating pieces that leave us wondering who will wear them.

Somal Halepoto



This designer presented a collection with a Sania Maskatiya gone wrong feel to it. Showing colour blocked outfits paired with prints, Halepoto showed boyfriend blazers, ponchos, chiffon tops, culottes, capris and kameezes. With a Zara-like aesthetic, the collection had some interesting elements that were worth noticing. The biggest hit of this collection out have to be the wooden bib and metallic collars.

Nickie Nina



The designer duo closed the first act of day two with their Byzantine and Medieval heraldry collection. Metallic accents, deep V backs, stripped and sheer pants, and cutwork were all the rage for Nickie Nina this season. The gold and white slinky jumpsuit and the detailed cutwork they presented were the best elements from the collection.

Yahsir Waheed



This designer’s over-sized pants were not flattering on models who have slim figures — we can’t imagine what they would look like on regular ladies who have a bit of meat! While the cotton and chikan pant suits and kimono shirts didn’t quite work well for this collection, his tribute to Pakistani folk art in the form of digital prints was interesting. Prints in neon green, blue and a deep pink made for attractive dresses, shirts and tunics. Standouts were a kimono-type shirt with phrases such as the typical ‘dekh magar pyaar se’ written in Urdu, as well as a knee-length dress that had beautiful eyes printed on them. We wish he had played with structures and silhouettes instead of doing the over-sized pants which were far too baggy to look good.

Asifa &amp; Nabeel



This collection was the best the designer duo has ever put out — after some questionable fashion choices in the past — but it still needed a great deal of editing. Inspired by the work of determined young artist Omar Rehman, who suffers from cerebral palsy, the duo used the muted and somber colours of Rehman’s paintings in their collection. Lace, embroidered borders and cutwork were all used on chiffons and crepe silks in beige and white with some moss greens. Short, A-line shirts without slits, asymmetrical chiffon tops and strapless shirts with capes dominated the ramp. The vibe of the collection was soft and feminine, but the finishing needed work as some camisoles were too large for the shirts and one or two outfits were not over-locked. Nevertheless, it was great to see the duo present a fashion-forward collection that is wearable.

[embed width="625"] http://vimeo.com/65044826 [/embed]

Published in The Express Tribune, April 29th, 2013.                     

Like Life &amp; Style on Facebook for the latest in fashion, gossip and entertainment.]]>
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			<title>PFDC Day 1: Feast your eyes on print-mania!</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/541298/pfdc-day-1-feast-your-eyes-on-print-mania</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/541298/pfdc-day-1-feast-your-eyes-on-print-mania#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sat, 27 Apr 13 15:18:46 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[momina.sibtain]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category><category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=541298</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[Élan and Sania Maskatiya were the best of the night.]]>
			</description>
			<content:encoded>
				<![CDATA[Print, print and more print is what Day 1 at the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) Sunsilk Fashion Week entailed.

In a nutshell, this season seems to be headed towards extravagance via prints and solids with minimal to no embellishments. It is without a doubt safe to say that PFDC knows how to put on a show. Here’s the breakdown:

Tapu Javeri



Fashion Week in Lahore opened with a bang with Tapu Javeri’s Tapulicious collection. Collaborating with Sadaf Malattere, Wardha Saleem, Adnan Pardesy and Rizwan Beyg, the collection had signature elements from each of the designers. Sadaf Malaterre’s fringe paired with Adnan Pardesy’s structured pleats wrapped with Wardha’s psychedelic prints, the collection was eye-catching with a number of hits-and-misses. While Fayeza Ansari sporting a funky eye patch was edgy, Mehreen Syed’s showstopper dress looked like a bad costume choice for Dracula-land. From Patiala shalwars to Western short dresses, the collection had a mixture of cuts and colour combos; however, the lime green mini dress was by far the best thing to come out of the collection.

Sublime by Sara Shahid



Lahore’s go-to-prét designer showed her latest collection titled NOW, featuring primarily solid neon-coloured outfits that were simple, wearable and bang on trend. Cybil’s outfit with solid block prints stood out and the wrap-around-neck hugging halters were a hit. Sara played a lot with drop shoulder tops and flowing drapery, which were plain and pretty. However, the chunky elastic bands in the back of jumpsuits looked slightly tacky. What did not work in Sublime’s favour were the black-and-white striped shirts with pink embroidery.

Sania Maskatiya



Aghaaz was one of the best collections of the evening, inclusive of macaroon colours with a hint of neon. Sania Maskatiya is one designer who not only understands print the best, but also has a knack for producing some of the best print-on-print we’ve seen so far. Maha Burney’s styling with the chain wrapped buns and plaits were a hit. It was hard to find anything amiss in this collection and with the exception of two outfits, the entire collection was spot on. Kudos to Maskatiya for incorporating the lacha in her collection. It was refreshing to see the traditional female village-wear be translated onto the ramp, revamped by Maskatiya. It is hard to pick a favourite, but the peek-a-boo mustard top paired with dark blue pants would have to be one of the best outfits in the collection. With Kiran Chaudhry as the showstopper, Sania Maskatiya’s show came to a smashing end.

FnkAsia



Unfortunately, this brand was neither funky nor Asian. Even though the collection was better than what we have seen come out from FnkAsia in the past, it was hard to understand the design concept. With a few hits and a lot of misses, FnkAsia’s saving grace had to be the very first sari on the ramp — a monochromatic blouse paired with a loud colour block sari. Another piece that stood out was the lime green and black top that was not just complementary but bang-on trendy. Humaima Malik’s showstopper red dress was an interesting piece coming from this fusion line, but not well draped.

Élan



The first act of Day 1 at PSFW closed with Élan’s thundering collection, Ode to a Nightingale. Inspired by Keats’ poem, the collection is an expression of transcending the human condition of despair and monotony and feeling one with the nightingale in its blissful state of freedom and happiness. Carrying on with her love for the orient, designer Khadijah Shah took her collection from last year further by developing more structured prints. Élan has always been known for its luxury prét, and not only were the prints luxurious but her cuts wer equally fascinating. Funky geometric accessories added to the entire look of the collection. The biggest hit of the collection would have to be the balloon skirt. It is well-structured and flattering — it might not appear on the racks, but fashion-forward ladies will definitely want to be seen in it. The showstopper dress worn by Mehreen Syed was one of the only embellished pieces; however, with this collection Élan’s prints stole the show and upstaged the showstopper.

Misha Lakhani



The newest sensation on the block presented a very wearable, laid-back collection. Misha’s collection had Karachi’s quintessential no-fuss element, with a major focus on cuts and her signature high-slit shirts with unfinished edges. From toga-style maxis to open window backs, Misha also experimented with sari-like draperies. What funked up Misha’s collection would most definitely be her gota embellished duppatas and casual flip-flops. But the designer’s strongest assets are luxury prét and formal wear; sadly, Lahore missed her beautiful embellishments.

Akif Mehmood



This designer really needs to either snap out of the tribal zone or learn how to make it work to his advantage. With the sacrificial cow-inspired aesthetic, this collection would have to be one of the biggest disappointments of the evening. Only two separate pieces from the entire collection were worth looking at — one being a pair of rust pants with appliqué work and the other a pair of monochromatic pants.

Maria B



Maria B’s collection closed the first day of fashion week. The Lahore-based designer has been in the industry for over a decade now and has shifted her focus to prét. While it was nice to see Maria B do something different for a change, she played it safe with cuts and colour options. The collection got a little monotonous and boring towards the end. We saw cotton prints stitched as jumpsuits and shirts. The collection on its own resembled Muse’s lookbook but the styling of her show was distracting — large aviators killed the look of the collection.

[embed width="625"] http://vimeo.com/65044826 [/embed] 

Published in The Express Tribune, April 28th, 2013. 

Like Life &amp; Style on Facebook for the latest in fashion, gossip and entertainment.]]>
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			<title>PBCW Day 3: Bridal regality and clumsy couture</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/540028/pbcw-day-3-bridal-regality-and-clumsy-couture</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/540028/pbcw-day-3-bridal-regality-and-clumsy-couture#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Wed, 24 Apr 13 16:06:06 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[saadia.qamar]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category><category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=540028</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[With the good, the bad and the ugly, Pantene Bridal Couture Week kept us hooked till the very end.]]>
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				<![CDATA[There was the expected high drama on the ramp when the curtains came down Pantene Bridal Couture Week Day 3. With the good, the bad and the ugly, the show kept us hooked till the very end. Here’s the lowdown:

Sana Abbas



The opening pieces of this designer’s collection showcased bridals themed on a pastel palette. With soft hues like beige, baby pink, light blue and white, Sana Abbas’s collection was designed for a graceful bride. There was kamdani on the dupattas, and cleverly done gold wire work on the long coat-like kameezes. Abbas fused peach with undertones of reds and maroons in her pishwas-cut kameezes with jamawar appliqués on the hemlines, paired with mint green Dhaka pajamas. The dresses with paisley motifs had a touch of regality and looked majestic on the ramp.

Nadya Mistry



When will this eyesore of a mystery be solved? The designer failed to impress on every level with her over-the-top, it’s-so-gaudy-my-eyes-hurt collection at a show which was about bridals. It was like the Garden of Eden from a nightmare, with butterflies literally flying out of the outfits along with peacocks, hummingbirds and all things you see in your backyard. With the right recipe for a ramp disaster in hand, Mistry showcased net chooridars, glittery mermaid-inspired lehengas and off-shoulder cholis full of coin-sized sequins. While we laud her for producing well-stitched albeit complicated pieces, we seriously wonder who will ever wear them.

Mifrah Gul



Debuting on the ramp, Mifrah Gul, who has been designing for years, is on the top of her game. Gul did not play with a lot of colour and her collection mainly featured shades of beige and off-white, with hints of maroons and peaches for both men and women. Some of her clothes had ruffled ends, which looked like ghararas, something which was brilliantly experimented and created a beautiful illusion. With reversed jamawar appliqués on the dupattas, Gul’s clothes were embroidered with a mix of dabka, zardozi, zari and stones — very wearable! The stunner that stole the limelight was a black sari embellished with lots of silver sequins.

Deepak Perwani



Boasting a successful journey of 20 years, Deepak Perwani’s collection featured gold block-printed fabric. Onlookers were treated to back-to-back solid hues of yellows and reds and shades of orange. From the slender chooridars to the magnanimous ghararas and farshi shararas, Deepak’s collection was ceremonial to the core. The embroidery, although intricate and light, looked appealing. In men’s wear, Deepak showcased structured sherwanis, paired with bright rust kullas and dhooti shalwars, which looked very classy. Deepak’s collection was indeed a feast for the eyes. The cherry on top were the showstoppers, the lovely Zeba Bakhtiar and the dashing Wasim Akram!

Hassan Shaheryar Yasin (HSY)



HSY’s collection had a signature grand appeal. From his immaculately done up sherwanis to ghararas with extensive silver wire work, everything was stunning. Using kundan with beadwork, dabka and zari, the outfits were something that a bride would love to wear on her big day. Keeping it traditional, HSY accessorised the outfits with batwas.

Haute Couturiers



A total of 14 couturiers displayed one statement outfit each. Ranging from dark, striking colours to soft, pastel hues, the overall collection was a bit muddled. It started with designer duo DnF’s off-white sherwani, followed by Ishtiaq Afzal’s spectacular red lehenga and choli. Musarrat Bushra’s contemporary off-white and turquoise farshi gharara was the best among these, followed by Naureen Arbab’s maroon and brown gharara. Arsalan Iqbal, who designed a gaudy royal blue sherwani, almost made the male model look like a bride. Tabbasum Mughal, Wasim Asghar and Wahaj M Khan’s outfits failed to make a mark.

Lights, camera, music!

The eve was topped off with an enthralling performance by Hasan Rizvi of BodyBeat, alongside Anoushey Ashraf, Komal Rizvi, Hina Bayat, Javed Sheikh, Kiran and Teepu. The foot-tapping Bollywood medley, which sent the crowd’s adrenaline soaring, left the crowd roaring for more.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 25th, 2013. 

Like Life &amp; Style on Facebook for the latest in fashion, gossip and entertainment.]]>
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			<title>PBCW Day 2: Lehengas, cholis, jewellery and music</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/539450/pbcs-day-2-lehengas-cholis-jewellery-and-music</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/539450/pbcs-day-2-lehengas-cholis-jewellery-and-music#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Tue, 23 Apr 13 15:48:30 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[saadia.qamar]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category><category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
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			<description>
				<![CDATA[Bridal fever in full glory.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Pantene Bridal Couture Week (PBCW) Day 2 was no less entertaining than the night before. The trend-setters of the fashion world have learned how to enthrall audience, if not with their collections, than at least with practiced performances. 

While most designers stuck to the bride-and-groom ramp walk, Madiha Nauman added a bit of masti in it. An added fun-factor was that Pakistani pop-rock band Fuzon performed in the middle of two showings.

Yasmin Zaman



Zaman is clearly a risk-taker designer. Her bridal collection was more fantasy wear since no bride would dare to dress in a lehenga choli that leaves her looking like a belly dancer. There was also Chinese embroidery in almost every outfit, but sadly this look didn’t gel well as a desi bridal collection. While the colours and style of work were refreshing, the collection is best suited for a honeymoon at a resort location — not for dinners or parties or even formal wear for young brides-to-be. Though the sexy outfits made bold statements, they seemed more Western and it is doubtful that a bride would dare to experiment with such look on her wedding day.

Hina Butt



With just two years of experience, Hina Butt stood out with her brand Teena. The collection had a regal touch, achieved with gota, kora, dabka, and stones which were extensively used. The necklines were heavily embellished and Hina’s sherwanis and ghararas brought out the traditional, festive look. She definitely managed to create an appeal that nobody else did either on Day 1 or Day 2. The blue, grey and red gharara, paired with royal blue jamawar sherwani looked magical, as did other combos like maroon, cream and gold coloured bridal wear. Apart from this, her collection was made in fabrics like net, satin and jamawar — all of which made a wearable combination. In one particular outfit there was a complete floral landscape that was eye-catching.

Madiha Nauman



Opening with a song from the Bollywood classic film Umrao Jaan, Madiha gave her collection the shahi-mujra touch. The designer’s colour sense was brilliant; she played with shades of mint green and deep magenta to maroon, purple and cream. Combinations using black, red and deep gold primarily consisted of Dhaka pajamas, heavily embellished silk and chiffon tops and jamawar trousers. There were detailed outlining of gold wire work in the necklines and the sleeves. The approach remained traditional wear for the bride, engaging in better colour schemes and sexier cuts.

Lajwanti



Shawana Afzal’s Lajwanti collection was surprisingly good. Though it is often reviewed as gaudy, Lajwanti was still the most awaited collection at PBCW. The designer used deep gold and shimmery embellishments, copper wires and sparkly stones which were especially prominent on the necklines. With lehengas, cholis, shararas and saris, Lajwanti displayed its delicate bridal look with an improved design sense. It’s about time! With 16 years of experience, it is expected that the designer experiments with different colour combos. The designer’s choice of textures, styles and cuts were noticeably different from past collections.

Anjalee &amp; Arjun Kapoor



The much talked about Mogul Opera collection was Indian to the core. It was said to be a jamawar collection, but the jamawaar lay hidden under the numerous layers of net. The collection seemed more like bright coloured gowns. The screaming pink and orange shades gave the collection that typically Indian bridal effect. Largely embossed silver glittery work is probably said to be their version of a regal look — but for the fashion-conscious in Pakistan, the duo failed to impress. The cuts and styles were the saving grace of the designers.

Maliha Sheikh



The jewellery designer’s collection consisted of over-sized statement pieces. She brought in the funky element with her multi-coloured, chunky necklaces. The bold jewellery can be worn with simple or single-colour outfits — a must have piece for a bride-to-be! Maliha’s choice to use giant-sized emeralds and rubies turned her pieces into stand alone cocktail accessories. The collection we adored included chandi balis, Kashimiri-Punjabi teekas, maatha-pattis, long dangling earrings and Hyderabadi saath lara style necklaces.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 24th, 2013. 

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			<title>PBCW Day 1: Desi thumkas meet beastly and beautiful bridals</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/538964/pbcw-day-1-desi-thumkas-meet-beastly-and-beautiful-bridals</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/538964/pbcw-day-1-desi-thumkas-meet-beastly-and-beautiful-bridals#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Mon, 22 Apr 13 16:04:16 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[saadia.qamar]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category><category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[Here’s our review of the saviours of the night, and those that left us gawking in horror.]]>
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				<![CDATA[The very filmy and drama-packed Pantene Bridal Couture Week (PBCW) opened on Friday evening at the Expo Centre. 

As always, the host Hum TV lived up to expectations set by previous installments, in that there was very little to offer for those who have a discerning eye for fashion, but lots of hulla gulla and naach gana. Here’s our review of the saviours of the night, and those that left us gawking in horror.


Asifa &amp; Nabeel



With 13 years under its belt, this designer duo failed to make a major impression on the finale of the first night. Traditional silhouettes with a modern touch here and there played with layers in satin and net. Ghararas and shararas, dominated the ramp for this collection, in whites and pinks. We wish they would take some risks instead of playing it safe, which was borderline boring at PBCW.

Amna Ajmal



This was another collection that seemed like a potpourri of anything and everything. If there was red, it was too much red; if there were contrasting colours, they failed to complement each other. How do solid browns work with tea pink or shocking pink?! Over-the-top embellishments made the designs lose clarity and dignity, and a lack of consistency with borders left things falling in a jumbled up manner. The only thing that was present uniformly throughout was silver wire work. The rotten cherry on the cake, however, was the tail coat with a big fat flower stuck at the very end, making the trail look like fungus growing in a pond. Even the menswear was abysmal, with a jamavar sherwani paired with a pair of jeans!

Mona Imran



Mona Imran’s collection centered on kaam dani and kora dabka work on long coats, ghararas, shararas and some lehenga-choli sets. The colour combination was interesting, varying between black, off-white and bright hues. While her bridal collection was overall more palatable than her ready-to-wear collection at Fashion Pakistan Week 5, there were some elements here too that left one wondering if the pieces were incomplete. An outfit modeled by Ayyan had a moonlight tank top instead of a kameez, which looked quite odd when paired with the heavy, multi-coloured gharara she was wearing. For young girls looking for ethereal bridals, Mona Imran doesn’t have much to offer.

Zainab Chotani



The opening designer’s collection comprised a beautiful selection of colours which was easy on the eyes. After being in the industry for six years, Chotani toyed primarily with ghararas and farshis in pink and turquoise undertones for PBCW. The shirts had intricately done silver wire work with detailed necklines. Hints of kaam dani and diamantes over net jamawar also added the regal touch needed for a bridal outfit. While her plush pinks and maroons were stunning, her whites were elegant. Chotani’s signature style stood out but there was no repetition.

Masti factor



Aamina Sheikh and Mohib Mirza set the ramp on fire with their dance performance on Day 1. Choreographed by Hasan Rizvi of Body Beat, the two delivered an energetic performance while lip-syncing to upbeat Bollywood numbers. While we wish Aamina had added some extra jhatkas to her performance, we give full marks to Mohib for his moves and expressions!

Zaheer Abbas



The young master craftsman struck a chord with the crowd. Zaheer Abbas is not known to experiment with colours, but one can always expect his collection to be immaculately well-stitched and cut. For PBCW, Zaheer presented a beautiful collection for men and women. The menswear included sherwanis with a hint of gold wire work on the neckline and sleeves, while the women’s wear was regal with solid colours and gold bead work. His emerald green bridals with jamawar bottoms velvet borders were scrumptious. The shades of blue and red made for lovely ghararas. Overall, the collection had hints of traditional material with neat, sophisticated kaam and embellishment, for a young modern woman who wants a no fuss outfit.

Nadia Chotani



In her bridal jewellery collection, Nadia Chotani retained the traditional elements specific to the brides of the 60s and 70s. Bridal chokers and necklaces accompanied by over-sized earrings, nose rings and waist bands in gold dominated her collection. Emeralds and rubies added to a complete traditional Rajasthani look, with a slight twist to make it more modern.

Saim Ali



The designer got it wrong on many levels. While his approach to dabble with black bridals can be passed off as creative, the gaudy embellishments, haphazard look and sordid appeal of his collections left many wide-eyed in horror. It seemed that the designer had failed to capture the essence of bridal week, with poor colour combinations and disastrous cuts and style. The combination of black with neon pink, and yellow with neon pink and red was too random, and echoed the overall lack of cohesion in his collection. It was creativity falling flat and resulting in very distasteful designs, leaving us wondering who his clients are.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 23rd, 2013. 

Like Life &amp; Style on Facebook for the latest in fashion, gossip and entertainment.]]>
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			<title>Top models at FPW SS13</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/537740/top-models-at-fpw-ss13</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/537740/top-models-at-fpw-ss13#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Fri, 19 Apr 13 15:18:01 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[secretcloset.pk.]]>
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				<![CDATA[There were some new faces that showed immense talent and promise.]]>
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				<![CDATA[We all enjoyed the collections and applauded, criticised and even shunned some of the designers who showcased at the fifth edition of Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW5), but what about the models? 

It seems our modelling industry is becoming increasingly polarised with an outstanding bunch at one end and a certain lack thereof at the other. There is a void that is becoming increasingly apparent. However, at the same time, there were some new faces that showed immense talent and promise. While preparing our list of top models, we graded them according to poise, confidence and overall look. Let’s begin the countdown!

1. No debates here, we are sure! Amna Ilyas nailed the numero uno spot hands down, beating everyone else on legs alone. 

The dusky model may not be 5’10”, but her legs sure seem like it when she struts seamlessly down the runway, bearing the charisma to outshine any one in a contest. Her posture is phenomenal and the pauses are perfect. It is rare to find a high fashion runway and print model rolled up into such a tiny package.



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2. The sultry Fayeza Ansari was back with a vengeance and everything about her just clicked — from her fierce and powerful walk to the styling and everything in between. 

Although she was the showstopper for her husband Rizwanullah’s show and for Deepak Perwani’s among others, it almost felt like she got to wear the best outfits throughout the showcase — a true characteristic of a worthy model. Furthermore, the way she balanced those elongated bouquet horns poking out of both sides of her head was truly admirable.



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3. If Hira Tareen would move slightly faster down the runway, she would create more impact with her strut. 

Other than that, the young model has proven herself as versatile on the catwalk as she is in print.



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4. Is it just us or is Fauzia Aman getting better as the years go by? 

Her perfectly sculpted figure on the runway was brilliant, making even some of the lesser designs appear stunning. Her smouldering look and swagger wins her the number four slot.



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5. We love Ayyan, but maybe we would like to see just a little bit less of her. 

When she walks down the ramp, her ethereal beauty and luscious pout can draw more attention than the outfit itself. Nonetheless, she is one of our favourites and her expressions are unmatched.



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6. The no 6 slot goes to Nadia Hussain, who is still one of the most popular choices as a showstopper. 

Although she is incredibly graceful and no one has yet touched her on height, we might be ready to see more new faces for if no other reason than for variety.



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7.  Falling in at number seven is Rubya Chaudhry who was one of the more prominent faces at the FPW. 

She has a very distinct and memorable look that is probably her greatest quality — it has that sad but magnetic high fashion element. Add a great walk to that and she makes a wholesome runway model.



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8. Areeba Habib was a new face that sparked our interest. 

While her look leans more toward commercial girl-next-door rather than high fashion, she has enormous potential and a darling figure. We like her for her natural appeal and versatility.



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9. The no 9 spot goes to Sehrish Bukhari another product of the Veet Miss Super Model campaign. 

Sehrish exudes confidence and just the right amount of sensuality. She had fun with the outfits and the camera loved her and that made the audience enjoy the show as well. Top marks for spirit and appeal plus that Cindy Crawford upper lip beauty mark doesn’t hurt!



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10. At no 10 we have Abeer Adeel, a fresh face in the world of runway modelling. 

She’s got the poise and with a little work on her confidence and expression which currently waver from time to time, the Veet Super Model Contest winner is sure to go a long way. We do wish her makeup stylist had done a better job to enhance her pretty features.



Had Neha appeared more than once on the ramp she would have earned a place in our lineup as well, surprisingly she remained absent for the most of the event aside from her appearance as expected for Sana Safinaz. That’s all for FPW5 and now we look forward to witnessing more stimulating performances at the upcoming Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) Sunsilk Fashion Week in Lahore.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 20th, 2013.                     

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			<title>Red carpet round-up: Meet the fashionistas</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/534742/red-carpet-round-up-meet-the-fashionistas</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/534742/red-carpet-round-up-meet-the-fashionistas#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Fri, 12 Apr 13 19:06:59 +0500</pubDate>
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			<description>
				<![CDATA[Here’s a round-up of trendsetters sporting the hottest looks off the runway at FPW.]]>
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				<![CDATA[At the red carpet for Day 1 and Day 2 of Fashion Pakistan Week, we spotted guests dressed in their fashionable best.
While there were some disasters that we are reserving for the Fashion Police segment (watch this space to read about it later this week), here’s a round-up of trendsetters sporting the hottest looks off the runway.
Maha Burney

Creative Director at Nadir Firoz Khan Photography Maha Burney, looked trendy from head-to-toe. We loved her hot pink baggy top with her black skinnies topped with chunky accessories. And we couldn’t take our eyes off of her ‘oh-so-sexy’ heels.

Amna Kardar



Designer Amna Kardar was one of the hottest to walk the red carpet. We love the black, drapy top with the bold golden halter neck. The defining make-up and large hoops completed her look.

Shamaeel Ansari



Designer Shamaeel sizzled on the red carpet in her red and tan outfit. She wore a cut-out sleeve top with tapered camel-colour pants. We couldn’t take our eyes off her bold-and-beautiful matching necklace.

Zari Faisal



Designer Zari Faisal pulled off a complicated look with confidence! The dress has vertical zig-zag black-and-white lines which she wore with plum suede shoes. She looked stylish and simple with her light make-up, subtle accessories and casual hair-do.

Sarah Anees



Being the head of design at Maheen Khan’s company, Sarah Anees knows how to dress for the occasion. With her hair pulled back and light make-up, Sarah wore a light shimmery wrap-around top over a black jumpsuit.

Maheen Khan



Designer Maheen Khan always manages to look classy. Her black-and-gray combo made her stand out from the crowd. It seems that Maheen had no reservations matching her large clutch and bracelets with her hair. Loving the black swan look!

Frieha Altaf



Former model and CEO of Catwalk Event Management Company Frieha Altaf posed in her neon green jumpsuit by Maheen Karim. She made sure to show off her matching heels when she pulled up her gorgeous and flowy jumpsuit. We love the shimmery shoulder!

Published in The Express Tribune, April 13th, 2013.                     

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			<title>Spotted at fashion week: Dr Fauzia Siddiqui of the Aafia Movement!</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/534743/spotted-at-fashion-week-dr-fauzia-siddiqui-of-the-aafia-movement</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/534743/spotted-at-fashion-week-dr-fauzia-siddiqui-of-the-aafia-movement#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Fri, 12 Apr 13 18:49:47 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[photo.athar.khan]]>
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				<![CDATA[Rather than enjoy the show, the two looked awkward, uncomfortable and preferred to concentrate on their smartphones.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Guess who we spotted sitting silently in the front row on Day 2 at FPW? Dr Fauzia Siddiqui and Pasban President Altaf Shakoor! But rather than enjoy the show, the two looked awkward and uncomfortable and preferred to concentrate on their smartphones.


“We were invited by designer Hasina Khanani and her husband,” Shakoor told The Express Tribune. “Her collection was scheduled to be showcased last or second last at the event,” he said, adding that they “were stuck in a very awkward situation”. He explained that Khanani’s husband Fahad Topra is an ardent supporter of Dr Fauzia Siddiqui. “They [Hasina and Fahad] insisted that we attend and invited us with such love and earnestness that we could not refuse.”

He quickly added, “I did not even turn my head up to look at the ramp — I had not gone there for this [to watch the fashion show] purpose to begin with,” he said. “We were there merely to support Hasina and Fahad. I continued to send emails and SMS from my phone because I was not concerned about what was happening there. It was the first time that I had attended such an event. It was very odd.”

He described his friends as “true believers, true Muslims on the inside”. “In a way, we were there to become closer to them emotionally and then, maybe someday, correct them,” he said at the end.

Dr Fauzia Siddiqui, sister of Dr Aafia Siddiqui who is imprisoned in the United States for attempted murder and assault, quoted the same reason for her attendance. “Hasina is a very good friend of mine,” said Dr Siddiqi. “She’s always been there to support my sister.” She added that she left as soon as her friend’s show was over.
When asked about her favourite collection of the evening, Dr Fauzia could not even recall the names of the designers. “I think Hasina’s turn came one designer after the Gul Ahmed show. Honestly, I was not paying much attention at the show; I kept myself busy on the phone.”
Published in The Express Tribune, April 13th, 2013.]]>
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			<title>Trend watch: Hot off the runway</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/534739/trend-watch-hot-off-the-runway</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/534739/trend-watch-hot-off-the-runway#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Fri, 12 Apr 13 18:45:34 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[news.desk]]>
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			<description>
				<![CDATA[A round-up of runway trends to remember from FPW 5.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Two grueling days of Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW) entailing nearly 30 shows are now over. We loved (almost) every minute of the ramp action, save the collections that could have been kept out by the Fashion Pakistan Council for not being up to the mark in terms of consistency and finishes. One can always hope that the council takes notice of our displeasure with the dull collections and edits them out next time.


On the bright side, there were some beautiful pieces that we can’t wait to see on the racks. Here is a round-up of runway trends to remember.

A runway constant

The jumpsuit is here to stay! We are absolutely in love with this Sana Safinaz piece in a dazzling neon green – can’t wait to see it in stores. There was no silver lining in Zari Faisal’s silver jumpsuit, which had a touch of her floral printed fabric on the back. She needs to work on the cut and finishing, but we are happy to see a new designer experiment with styles. We are not too crazy about Bani D’s mustard jumpsuit which was paired with a short sleeveless coat.

Play it louder


Emraan Rajput, Sana Safinaz
The Sana Safinaz safari playsuit is super duper sexy, and we are in love with how it has been paired with the bag and belt. We aren’t too crazy about Emraan Rajput’s denim playsuit, and would love to see him play it up with pockets and zips to give some texture.

Where oh, hair?



When Sana Mehek appeared on the ramp on Day 2 at FPW, onlookers gasped — the model had no hair! While she wasn’t available to comment on her decision to go without a wig, hairstylist Tariq Amin tells us he loved her androgynous look. “Wow!” he exclaimed. “It was very sexy, very bold and very now. She looked just like me!” he laughed. “I love girls with shaved heads. My wife has it too and I love it.”

He added, however, that she could have carried herself with more confidence. “[Her lack of confidence] was reflected in her walk,” he said. “She definitely would’ve carried it off well if she walked better.”

“I don’t personally know her [Sana], but if she has the guts to do something like that [shave head] in Pakistan, then that’s just amazing.” Eiman Masroor

Wear the drama on your sleeve



Shamaeel, Aamna Aqeel

Two of our favourite collections from FPW 5 featured wide, billowing sleeves. For Finding Glory, Aamna Aqeel styled a crisp white shirt with a sexy collar and deep V-neck and these funky sleeves. Shamaeel added the same element of drama in her Extra-Orient collection, with shaded sleeves on a layered tunic cinched at the waist.

The cream of the crop


Ishtiaq Afzal Khan,  Aamna Aqeel
We are gaga about these cropped jackets. Not only do they look uber-sexy, they can also take any look from day to night. We love the embellished black  jacket Fayeza Ansari modeled for Aamna Aqeel. Ishtiaq Afzal Khan’s cropped jacket would look lovely with a knee-length dress in a solid colour.

Tying the right knot



MaheenKhan, Shamaeel, Maheen Khan

Only the masters of fabulous finishing can pull off knotted fabric. FPW 5 saw Maheen Khan’s collection Flight incorporate the knot in these two pieces. We love the tunic that ends in a knotted belt, and the boat neck grey shirt with the knot at the waist. Shamaeel did the same, knotting an ethereal short shirt in a loose knot at the waist.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 13th, 2013.                     

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			<title>Pakistan Fashion Week - Day 1: Not-so-high fashion fever</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/533729/pakistan-fashion-week-day-1-not-so-high-fashion-fever</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/533729/pakistan-fashion-week-day-1-not-so-high-fashion-fever#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Wed, 10 Apr 13 16:03:29 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[saadia.qamar]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[Day one of the event seemed to drag on for longer than the actual four hours.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Day One of the two-day Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW) 5 on Tuesday evening seemed to drag on for longer than the actual four hours, owing largely to unexciting collections. 

The usual suspects got some of us to sit up in our seats and marvel at their skill and craftsmanship, but most collections were humdrum, with at least one that was a total eyesore.  Besides the arrival of Labels’ shop-the-runway online, there were no international buyers present at the show, which meant that the designs should have at least appealed to onlookers on either side of the ramp. Having said that, the Lotus team and Fashion Pakistan Council deserve two thumbs up for pulling off a well-organised event — kudos to them!
Runway moments 
Ahsan Nazir



Ahsan’s Global Remix used print with embroidered and embellished pieces to create a colourful and beautiful parade.  Midriff-bearing embellished cholis and short shirts were paired with saris and loose pants in jazzy prints of fuchsia, aqua and orange. The combinations were feminine and funky, with the silver sequins working well against the pink clusters of embroidered flowers. Trendy shoulder bearing dresses also showed the blocking of print and embellishments in flowy silhouettes. The menswear included colourful waistcoats in psychedelic prints. Ahsan gets two thumbs up for presenting a cohesive and eye-catching range of outfits.

Ayesha Hasan



Ayesha Hasan’s collection Zilji inspired by Islamic Moroccan architecture comprised prints in beautiful autumn hues of burnt orange, pale green, rust and red.  The calligraphic compositions and prints, however, seemed to be more of an ode to Sania Maskatiya, and elicited whispers of the same in the crowd. Nevertheless, the side swept, tousled braids and elegant maatha pattis added to the demure look Ayesha was going for. A short black coat full of maroori and vasli work in gold over a strapless printed jumpsuit in teal was breathtaking.

Aamna Aqeel



Aamna’s collection Finding Glory was indeed a glorious show of black and gold with some delicious leg action, reminiscent of Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection. Cropped black jackets with gold work embellishments were paired with either a long gold dress or black leather tights and gold accents. A pair of black tights ending in a funky black and white print with gold studs was a creative and interesting feature in the collection. Aamna confidently showed how black is never boring when paired with a chic slashed gold skirt, embellished hot pants or playsuit. We absolutely love the floor length black and gold coat with worked bodice that was cut off at the front, a little below the waist. Three cheers for Aamna — the best of day one!

Maheen Khan



You can always trust Maheen Khan to present a well-tailoured collection that leaves you amazed at how well she can use simple, unembellished fabric with sophistication. Her FPW5 collection titled Flight was a tribute to species of birds that face the threat of extinction.  In navy, camel, silver and gold hues, Maheen used mostly chiffons and silks to make shirts varying in length between the waist and knee.  The cuts echoed Maheen’s modern approach, with more fitted silhouettes and one-shoulder shirts over layered pants and voluminous skirts. The un-embellished silver and ivory sari modeled by Ayyan is our favourite for its classic Maheen Khan element of minimalism.

Zari Faisal



A beautiful pinky-orange hue, silver and gold sequins, floral prints on an ivory base and net coats dominated the ramp for this show. But there was nothing too luxurious about debut designer Zari Faisal’s Plush collection; the floral print and sheer coat-over-shirt combos were not innovative or well-stitched. But despite that, Zari’s first collection was cohesive, and the beautiful colour combos and gratifying juxtaposition of fabric leave us believing that with time and confidence, she can give us something that will make us sit up in our seats. While most designers stayed clear of the floor-skimming lengths, Zari preferred to keep them for her floral print flared shirt

Bani D



After raising expectations at FPW4 with a fantastic collection, Bani D’s Colour-Washed Layers collection this time was unimposing. Some short shirts and jackets over printed palazzos; printed shorts over loose-fitting pants and floor skimming kaftan broken by a belt were the highlights of the collection. A pair of mustard yellow pants with a print reserved only for the top half were interesting when paired with a matching, tucked in shirt.
....the rest
Aamir Baig 



This designer’s ode to lines was safe, simple and unsurprising. The hemlines were high – with some dresses ending dangerously below the thigh, leaving many wondering how such outfits will fare with a Pakistani buyer. Aamir worked maroon, yellow, aqua and black and red stripes on a white canvas, with the menswear echoing Jean Paul Gaultier’s look for the sailor advert in 2002.

Faiza Saqlain 



Faiza’s Marvi, inspired by Sindhi folktale, used the colours of Tharparker in an unimaginative fashion. The collection seemed inspired by FnkAsia’s collection for FPW4 last year, and brought nothing new with Sindhi mirror-worked bodices and patchwork coats. The patchwork accents on plainer outfits seemed out of place, but a voluminous shalwar modeled by Nadia Husain was interesting.

DnF 



Designer duo Deepak and Fahad have evolved from their previous Keffiyeh collection. At FPW5, the young men showcased their collection titled Metalistic, inspired by the international trend of metal studs on jackets, coat lapels, pockets and shirt fronts. In murky and nude brown hues, DnF put together studded shirts and waistcoats for men, with dresses, jumpsuits and cropped jackets for the ladies. While it wasn’t a remarkable creative or well-stitched collection, it must be said that they managed to present clothes that are wearable and not too over-the-top, as is seen with menswear designers.

Mona Imran 



Now this collection made many sit up in their seats — but more out of bewilderment than appreciation. Mona Imran’s Safari collection used animal prints in dresses, jumpsuits, capri pants, palazzos and jackets. The dresses were styled differently, with one Wilma Flinstone-inspired hemline with a plunging neckline revealing a risqué bikini top inside. A look at the black shirt and skirt combo with a square patch of a tiger face at the crotch will give you an idea of the jungle epidemic.

Orient 



Orient’s Spring Summer 2013 collection was a routine lawn show on the ramp. The embroidered galas, borders and buttons on simple kurtas were nothing out of the ordinary. But the prints were attractive with one in jazzy black and white lines standing out. Are three-piece lawn suits supposed to be part of a fashion week showcasing prêt wear? We don’t think so – let’s keep them restricted to the billboards, shall we?

Emraan Rajput 



The collection titled Denimology use denim and  black embroidery with little imagination. The motifs were nothing out of the ordinary, with men’s jackets and short women’s kurtas having embroidered fronts. The look Emraan seemed to be going for was a safe, non-fussed play on denim.

Cat on a not-so-hot runway!

During the first show of FPW5, a scared looking stray cat managed to make its way into the hall, darted hurriedly past the first row and disappeared into the crowd.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 11th, 2013. 

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			<title>Fashion’s best foot forward: The PFDC finale</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/141717/fashion%e2%80%99s-best-foot-forward-the-pfdc-finale</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/141717/fashion%e2%80%99s-best-foot-forward-the-pfdc-finale#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sat, 02 Apr 11 17:52:19 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[The final day of the PFDC Sunsilk fashion week was a star-studded fantastic showcase, here are the highlights.]]>
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				<![CDATA[The PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week made up big time for the lukewarm collections and environs on the last day of its showcase. With a fantastic line-up of easily the very best that the industry has to offer, it was a night that had stellar collections in quick succession.

The buzz and energy was infectious as the venue bubbled over with people, and the vibe energetic from the fresh pool of talent that always astounds one as they hit the ramp.


 

Adnan Pardesy

Adnan Pardesy gave denim a new dimension and life previously unknown in fashion. A ubiquitous fabric, but notoriously difficult to fashion well, Pardesy proved his mettle as a designer who has command over his craft and created his most wearable collection to date. To use denim to create garments that correspond to dominant trends in pret wear like the flowing kameez with a floating hemline was sheer genius. He used the age old techniques of pleating and pin-tucks but added interlocking and zippers to add more texture to his garments. The zips added to the construction of the garments, such as a full skirt and a kameez with adjustable lengths on the sides by either taking the zip up or down. This ingenious technique allowed garments to be more than just what they were fashioned out as; treat each piece as you wish.

Personal favourite: 

The skirt and kameez with zips along the sides.

Trend alert: 

Denim churidaar.

Crimson by Ali Xeeshan

Always over the top and flamboyant, Ali Xeeshan never compromises on the outlandish grandeur of his presentation. But even as he debuted, one wondered, if he would ever be able to make clothes? His last collection ‘The Pheonix’ quenched all doubts when he worked with crushed fabric and innovative cuts to present a prêt savvy line of tops and kaftans. Yet apart from his psychedelic printed saris, his present collection did not offer many clothes. Yes there was a hint of The Pheonix with a crushed fabric maxi dress and a few voluminous pieces that combined his peacock screen prints and shawl fabric with the crushed fabric, but on the whole there was nothing remarkably new for Xeeshan to offer except for the few pieces of bridal wear that he added from his line for Crimson. The styling of the show, as always, was incredibly flashy and given Xeeshan’s creativity in this department one wishes he would venture into making accessories and lend a hand to primping collections for the other designers at fashion week to add a bit of the ‘razzle dazzle’ he possesses.

Personal favourite:

Bringing the veil back for brides -- instead of a cloistering cloth veil, a sheer net one that adds to the radiance of a bridal ensemble.

Trends:

A sheer ‘paloo’ (sari trail) beneath a printed one, as a double ‘paloo’ on a sari.

TeeJays

To resolutely work with local fabrics and just cotton bare of any embellishment, to create ensembles that exemplify ‘awami’ cool and yet have the ability to reign at any ramp or red carpet, is nothing short of sheer genius. With each showing, Feeha Jamshed has consistently proved how well she deserves her father, Tanvir Jamshed’s mantle to carry his mission of affordable fashion for the masses. Relying only on cuts and silhouettes, Jamshed is a master craftsman who spins trends with each piece that she artfully creates. Whether its initiating the jumpsuit back into the Pakistani fashion scene or bringing wide palazzos to merrily co-exist with the latest obsession of churidaars, or predicting the print on print trend even before it hit the global catwalk -- Jamshed has a real pulse on fashion, on what is relevant now, and how to make it our own. With this collection entitled Freedom, Jamshed has given women the freedom to wear what they please: pants, shalwars, tunics, maxis and even ghararas.

Personal favourite: 

A virgin white cotton gharara cum cargo pants ensemble.

Trend Alert: 

Cotton ghararas; buttons lined on the side of a tunic; wearing a button down kameez the other way around, with the collar and buttons at the back instead of the front.

FnkAsia

A brand that has consistently worked towards the development of true street wear, FnkAsia presented its most coherent collection to date. It was fun and spot on with trends for the season. Carrying forth from its last showing at fashion week in Islamabad, the brand presented a wide spectrum of colours and designs, particularly with a focus on providing multiple options in lowers.

Personal favourite: 

The printed bubble poncho and the marigold body-suit.

Trend alert: 

Detailing and embellishment on the ends of the churidaar.

Ammar Belal

To survive creatively and business wise for someone like Ammar Belal who steers away from gauche bling and traditional wear, is a mammoth task. Yet Belal manages it with such grace to represent collection after collection of unconventional clothing that push boundaries of style without compromising his design philosophy. In his most wearable collection for the Pakistani market, he picked up on the oft used safari theme but ensured that it remained true to his aesthetic. Structured and safari chic, he also dabbled in equestrian fashion and worked with linens, cottons and suede to give a unique twist to how a tryst in Africa would be ala Ammar Belal.

Personal favourite: 

Sequined tights in leopard spots.

Trend Alert: 

Safari suits for women with suede accents.

HSY

A master showman, Hasan Sheheryar Yasin understands the business of glamour and fashion like none other. Incredibly suave and an astute business man, he has built a brand that personifies traditional glam. As a choreographer he knows how to put up a show and enthrall audiences. With HSY, one always expects fireworks and he never disappoints. With a live DJ and drum beats, HSY took us on a Voyage Nationale that depicted the various crafts of Pakistan; an apt move to do so just when the PFDC has also begun to work with local artisans through a Saarc initiative titled Sabah. In line with the philosophy of strengthening livelihood programs, HSY also dexterously used the Swati hand embroidered bags by Krizmah to accessorise his collection. However despite all these efforts, it was clear that HSY is a brand that makes breathtaking bridals but cannot merge quintessential local craft like mirror work very well onto garments. The brand stands for opulence and the crafted embellishments stuck out like a sore thumb on otherwise luxurious garments. What did work though was the incorporation of phulkari on the sherwani as well as traditional bolero on a sequined pop orange jump suit.

Personal favourite: 

A royal purple gown with cut work motifs all along the skirt.

Trend alert: 

Coats on saris.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 03rd, 2011.]]>
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			<title>PFDC day two: All frill no thrill</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/141118/pfdc-day-two-all-frill-no-thrill</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/141118/pfdc-day-two-all-frill-no-thrill#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Fri, 01 Apr 11 18:13:01 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[Day two didn’t quite have the buzz of fashion week, live qawaali from Imran Aziz Mian made the evening bearable.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Day two didn’t quite have the buzz of fashion week, but, the divinely decorated French vanilla Karma cupcakes in the front row and a spectacular Eden erected on stage made up for the dull environment.

While we pretend we didn’t even notice who or what Sarah Salman did, let’s at least acknowledge the live qawaali of Imran Aziz Mian that made the whole experience of watching a redundant Asifa and Nabeel collection more palatable.  Following are those who made it to our fashion desire list.


Karma: Girls just wanna have fun

Fantastical and magical with bubbles floating in the air and a make shift garden in bloom, Karma utilised the ramp to create the perfect childhood dream that brought Elizbeth Lawrence’s following quote to life: “There is a garden in every childhood, an enchanted place where colours are brighter, the air is softer, and the morning more fragrant as ever.” As a celebration of Maheen Kardar’s growth as a mother alongside the development of her brand Karma, the show began in the most endearing manner with socialite’s and fashionable mothers, and their little girls walking the ramp hand in hand with flowers in their hair and baskets with bouquets in their hands. In a show of fashion solidarity designers Maria B and Sara Shahid, models Natasha Hussain and Fia, shared the ramp with their little ones. The whole presentation was very sweet and nostalgic as models pranced, danced, kissed and hugged recreating the adage that ‘girls just wanna have fun.’

When the euphoria of the dream waned away, it was clear that Karma may have grown as a business with multiple extensions as Karma Red, Pink and Princess, but the design sense had remained stagnant. The clothes appeared mostly as Barbie’s costumes but then who doesn’t want to dress up like Barbie? From the fashion presentation standpoint Kardar had thrown in many pieces together that had to be deconstructed, according to one’s personal taste, and then each piece taken as a separate. Given the theme of the show however, the pairing worked.

Personal favourite: 

Denim encrusted with crystal princess motifs and floral print pockets and the styling of the segment.

 

Trend alert: 

Sequined flared bottoms in bright hues.

 

Asifa and Nabeel: Enough of shaadi wear at fashion week!

Asifa and Nabeel simply recreated what they sell: Clothes that women who aren’t terribly conscious about making a true fashion statement would wear at weddings just to fit in with the general trends of the floating hemlines and angharkhas. Theirs are clothes that don’t particularly belong on a fashion week ramp and should be reserved for showings at bridal events which is where their true market is.  

Personal favourite: 

None. 

Trend alert: 

None.

Akif Mehmood: Rustic cool

His inspirations may come from the underlings of society, but he’s definitely not one himself. Akif Mehmood (along with his compatriot, the maverick, Mohsin Ali), are set to rule the industry. If you have Hilary Alexander — fashion writer for The Telegraph, nodding perceptively, then you certainly have made it. While Mehmood’s debut Kalash collection flooded publications, his second offering shows equal promise of warming the most frigid of fashion critics. Creating a patchwork of indigenous fabrics and juxtaposing it with civilisation motifs and upholstery fabric, Mehmood  stayed true to his aesthetic of looking inward and creating pieces that are truly Pakistani. The general look of the collection in terms of the cuts and silhouettes was reminiscent of his previous work, but that’s just fine for a raw designer trying to gain a foothold in the industry.

Personal favourite: 

The well structured coats both short and long, lined with desi patterned fabric, ensure the winters won’t be drab.

Trend Alert: 

Pockets strategically used on the behind and front of coats; the use of upholstery fabric for skinny pants and coats.

Rizwanullah: Fashion and drama, two sides of the same coin

Rizwanullah exemplifies what it means to be ‘in fashion’, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that you should also be able to make good clothes. Always out to shock audiences with his personal style and grooming, Rizwanullah managed to deliver two interesting collections previously with henna embossed on garments and a monotone tribute to the urban violence of Karachi. With his third showcase of a unisex collection, he seemed a bit all over the place with what he wanted to put across. It was a haphazard show of grungy black short dresses and slashed tights along with a ‘ralli’ gharara and wedding wear derived from Sindhi dastarkhans and truck art motifs and embroidery which someone aptly commented as Deepak Perwani meets Gulabo.

Personal favourite: 

The top with keys and other hardware dangling and the ‘ralli’ gharara.

Trend alert: 

Using ‘ralli’ bed spreads to craft garments . The sindhi dastarkhan emblems foray into shaadi wear, particularly, for mehendi’s.

Republic: The gentlemen’s club

With impeccable taste, elegant tailoring and a pulse on international trends, Republic has consistently proven to be ‘the’ brand for the dandy in all men. Crisp, sleek and sophisticated, Republic encourages men to experiment, but knows exactly to what extent the average modern man is willing to extend his wings into the unchartered territory of personal styling. While the brand took risks with colours at its last showing, their autumn/winter 2011 collection, the looks were more restrained inspired from the 30s quiet grunge.

Personal favourite: 

Animal skin bags and travel totes spell taste like none other when it comes to men.

Trend Alert: 

Skinny leather pants; quilted jacket juxtaposed with fabric for a coat on coat look; leather bands on cuffs.

Sara Salman: An uninspiring recall to the vintage

Sarah Salman took us back to the 1940s and it was a memory that didn’t quite bring back any desire to revisit the past. With garments that were so passe with mirror work on white, the collection offered nothing new. The fact that the designer didn’t even walk onto ramp wearing her creation but let her daughters wear them was a perplexing statement in itself. 

Personal favourite: 

None.

Trend alert: 

The cuffed churidaar.

Sadaf Malaterre: Trembling romance

Sadaf Malaterre went monotone after her previous rainbow showings which may have been a great thing since she was able to effectively demonstrate her skill of crafting a killer dress. Draped, sexy and feminine, each dress was an ode to the woman who needs no overt fashion statement to express her sensuality. And with gentle specks of crystals sprinkled along hemlines, Malaterre presented the perfect ethereal collection that personified the unique paradox of trembling fragility and personal strength of the cosmopolitan woman.

Personal favourite: 

The toga-esque short dress that requires oodles of grace and elegance to pull off.

Trend Alert: 

A sequined halter sneaking through a sheer, soft coloured full sleeved top.

Khaadi: Nothing khaas 

You could be forgiven for thinking that Shamoon Sultan used his finale show mostly, and quite unfairly, as a launching pad for his lawn, while textile gurus like Al Karam and Gul Ahmed were given designated spots in the afternoon to showcase their lawns at the voile shows. This is not to say that he didn’t do a good job — he did. In his classic Khaadi boho-desi-chic styling. The initial pieces that took to the ramp continued the tradition of controlled and sophisticated bohemia and offered an array of 70s attire: jumpsuits, summer dresses, kaftans.

 

Personal favourite: 

A belted rainbow top heavily embellished with hand embroidery ala Khaadi style.

Trend alert:

Sheer chiffon cover ups and boleros instead of dupattas; multiple hemlines akin to a peasant skirt/dress.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 02nd, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Fashion Exclusive: The Ultimate Merger</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/140527/fashion-exclusive-the-ultimate-merger</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/140527/fashion-exclusive-the-ultimate-merger#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Thu, 31 Mar 11 18:31:03 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[express]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[Lahore based Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) and Karachi based Fashion Pakistan (FP) to become one.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Day two of the PFDC Fashion Week 2011 has brought in startling news of the merger of the two fashion councils that represent the fashion industry in Pakistan, the Lahore based Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) and Karachi based Fashion Pakistan (FP).

One Council To Represent All
Chairperson of the Executive Committee of PFDC, Sehyr Saigol, and the newly appointed CEO of FP Amir Adnan have joined hands to announce that the two councils will now be working from a single platform named All Pakistan Fashion Council (APFC)
Fashion First

Speaking to media personnel, Saigol explained, “All the designers are part of the Pakistani fashion community, the APFC will provide a platform for them on the whole. We need to bring in business for our fashion industry through our fashion weeks. Previously, with so many fashion weeks per year, we were just holding star studded events that rake in money for advertisers, hoteliers and the media — but not for fashion”

Gulabo Ka Libas

This news is bound to reshape the fashion industry as we know it. To mark this merger, the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week has decided to end with a grand finale show that will jointly showcase Saigol’s Libas and Maheen Khan’s Gulabo, which industry veterans have affectionately termed ‘Gulabo Ka Libas’

All Pakistan Fashion Council

CEO

Maheen Khan

Chairperson for life

Mohsin Sayeed


CEO

Sehyr Saigol

Board Members

Hassan Shehryar Yasin

Nomi Ansari

Sonya Batla

Sana Hashwani

Maria Butt

Maheen Kardar

Shela Chatoor

Rizwan Beyg

Shamaeel Ansari Umar Sayeed

Secretary

Frieha Altaf

Public Relations officer

Aamina Haider Isani


Published in The Express Tribune, April 01st, 2011.

Update April 4, 2011: This report was a hoax as part of an April Fool's day prank.]]>
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			<title>For a perfect wedding, Bridal Couture Week continues</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/139946/for-a-perfect-wedding-bridal-couture-week-continues</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/139946/for-a-perfect-wedding-bridal-couture-week-continues#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Wed, 30 Mar 11 18:47:08 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[saadia.qamar]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[Karachi will host Style360 Bridal Couture Week II, to be held between April 22 and April 24 at the Expo Centre,]]>
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				<![CDATA[Fashion is really on a roll. With half the industry designing lawn (the exhibitions aren’t over), the third instalment of PFDC fashion week kicked off yesterday.


Style360 Bridal Couture Week 2, 2011 (BCW2) has been planned for April this year. This time, the city of Karachi will host the event scheduled between April 22 and April 24 at the Expo Centre, according to a press briefing held on Monday, March 28, at the Pearl Continental Hotel, Karachi.

Speaking at the press conference, Duraid Qureshi, CEO, Hum Network said: “Weddings hold a special place in our culture. My wedding was relatively a simple affair but, in today’s world, it has to be a perfect. From jewellery to designers, to event planners, everyone is involved in making it a big event.”

Qureshi further stated: “We have been encouraged by the response received at BCW1 held in Lahore last year, which is why we now plan to have it here in Karachi.  18 - 20 fashion designers will be participating in the bridal week. Apart from this, the general public, too, will be welcomed to participate in various activities taking place at this mega event.”

Spotted at the event was model and designer Vaneeza Ahmed Ali. As general manager Style360, she will be involved in the production and choreography of the event. Sharing more details with The Express Tribune, Ali said: “The event will bring forth new and exciting trends that will come about this season. People will get a chance to interact with designers and other people associated with the bridal industry.”

Bushra Iqbal, Brand Manager Pantene said: “The tagline for this years event remains ‘For a Perfect Wedding’. This event will ensure that what a girl really dreams of having on her wedding day can come true and get what it really takes to make a wedding perfect. BCW1 was a huge success. This one will definitely be a mega event. It will give people a recipe for making their own, or their children’s wedding, a success.”

Compared to India where the bridal industry stands at $23 billion today, Pakistan is yet to acknowledge the commercial streak of weddings on which a huge amount is spent every year. BCW2 will provide a great platform to the general public to mingle with jewellery designers, fashion designers, event planners and caterers.

 Published in The Express Tribune, March 31st, 2011.]]>
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			<title>First day first show : Sunsilk Fashion Week</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/139906/first-day-first-show-sunsilk-fashion-week</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/139906/first-day-first-show-sunsilk-fashion-week#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Wed, 30 Mar 11 18:46:09 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[No showings on the second day of the Sunsilk Fashion Week to respect Pakistan India World Cup semi final match.]]>
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				<![CDATA[There was none of the hoopla and eager anticipation that invariably accompanies the opening night of a fashion week as the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) Sunsilk Fashion Week commenced at the cusp of the Pakistan India World Cup semi-final in Lahore. Designers and fashion journalists had already given their ultimatum that there would be no showing (and certainly no viewing either) on the designated second day of the week that clashed with the epic match. And the spill-over effects of that nervous alacrity could be felt as the PFDC’s round three began in a rather damp manner.

Nikki Nina

It is has become customary, it seems, for Nikki Nina to open the event each time and while one expects the brand to falter every time, its spring/summer 2011 collection pleasantly surprised us all. Retaining their general aesthetic of combining block prints with indigenous embroideries culled from Sindh in their signature palette of black, green and fuschia, the collection came together beautifully in a harmony that would previously get smothered under confused styling (Fez hats from last year anyone?) and jarring designs. After two ungainly attempts at fashion weeks, the label may just emerge this year with a solid identity and even dictate trends with the striking sheer block print churidaar with muted gold embellishments at the edges, amongst an array of lowers like harem pants and the dhoti shalwar, and the double kameez with a shorter hemline on top of a longer one.

Verdict:

Yet in spite of finally creating a collection worthy of the ramp, why will these women not wear their own clothes for the final walk, particularly when they have eventually managed to get it right?

 

 

Yahsir Waheed

Yahsir Waheed rose to critical acclaim in their previous showings but completely lost the plot in round three. Waheed shot himself in the foot with his Gandhara inspired velcro jumpsuits, the 80s awami shalwar kameez and summer dresses that attempted a play on fabric and textures but just got it all wrong by trying to show a collection that was neither autumn/winter and not quite spring/summer either..

Verdict:

From a designer as seasoned as Waheed, one expected a lot more than merely pasting a large Buddha face at the back of capes and hoodies. 

 

Sublime

Sara Shahid of Sublime closed for the night in a vibrant carnival of colour reminiscent of Basant in yellows and oranges that celebrated every kind of Pakistani woman: the veiled and the unveiled. The message of a peaceful coexistence for both kinds of women in tolerance and harmony was reflective in the spectrum of attire that Sublime offered: a summer dress, a halter top, a kameez and even a burqa- but all drenched in colour. 

Verdict:

But, if only, Shahid would have experimented more with cuts, she needs to push her creative boundaries, a showcase of floor length gowns in single tones took away from the profound impact that her burqas had made. 

 

 

Saai

Sahar Atif’s label Saai came into the spotlight for reviving traditional crafts such as chikan kari in a more contemporary aesthetic. While her last showing focused on texture and creating meticulously pleated fabric, she went back to her intended focus of revival of craft in her third fashion week showing to bring kashmiri embroideries to the fore. To dramatise the collection for the ramp, Atif crafted garments around orbits ala Judy Jetson.  

Verdict:

The idea was novel and could have worked as a unique amalgamation of futuristic fashion with traditional craft but it just didn’t come together as coherently as it should have with the cut work and mediocre finishing. Even the pertinent choice of the rustic Arieb Azhar fell flat with the hall acoustics.

The young blood

 

While the more established names demonstrated hits and misses, it was the younger lot that made one sit-up and notice the exciting direction in which Pakistani fashion is heading. Each is distinct in their own way, the new fashion brood: Muse, Fahad Hussayn, Burhan Khan, Zaheer Abbas and the brightest of them all, Mohsin Ali, stole the night with their inventiveness.

&nbsp;

Muse

Muse retained its minimalistic chic look by focusing on effective colour blocking and pleating ala Issey Miyake that lent structure to the whole collection. With immaculate tailoring and finishing, the brand made its mark for clothes that were clean and sleek and personified elegance for the woman who truly understands that less is more. 

 

Zaheer Abbas

One wished however that Zaheer Abbas’s collection wasn’t so reminiscent of Adnan Pardesy’s ‘Plathonic’ that for a moment made one question whether Pardesy is showing his previous collection again. But, while Pardesy relied entirely on quilting for its powerful effect, Abbas made the collection more wearable and incorporated elements such as draping with volumes of fabric, from his first showing at the Fashion Pakistan Week.

Sublime offered a summer dress, a halter top, a kameez and even a burqa- but all drenched in colour. 

 

Beekay

BeeKay’s ingenuity could be seen in how effectively he managed to curtail the urge to go wild with a punk, goth, tar collection that was replete with jackets, hoods and leather boots with models stomping onto the ramp to disturbingly mind numbing eerie music. This is the kind of edgy fashion that no one has attempted so far — given Burhan Khan’s controlled construction; he is bound to go far in providing appropriate clothing for boys like himself who cannot do the ‘nicey-nice’ fashion. 

 

Fahad Hussayn

Fahad Hussayn and new kid on the block, Burhan Khan of BeeKay, both did a purely raven collection that was edgy and rock chic in their own distinct way. While Hussayn used his classic black and gold pallete with his signature motifs, he added gold origami flowers to encrust his garments. Always theatrical and towards the macabre, Hussayn doesn’t become morbid even though he did showcase a model completely sheathed ala McQueen. There are always layers of meaning in Hussayn’s work, which he symbolically demonstrated as a model did a strip tease of sorts as a glove flung here, and a jacket flung there over the audience’s heads. 

 

 

Mohsin Ali

If there was one collection that wowed us that night, it was Mohsin Ali’s. His show was spectacular, with a collection that carried delicious coats and cover ups in pop orange and mustard, lined with Ali’s personal obsession of ‘razai’ fabrics. Generally considered as gauche and gaudy, razai fabrics have hardly made a successful transition into high fashion, but with Ali’s magical touch it becomes alluring in its contrasting shiny vitality. From his crushed fabric togas and tops to his khaddar under shirts and asymmetrical thick coats, what was remarkable about the collection was that it could easily be replicated for the spring/summer with its array of colour and ingenious construction.

Closing the show with a dramatic presentation of fashion’s most exciting couple; designer and model Rizwanullah and model Fayeza Ansari, Ali demonstrated his feel for the local fashion industry and showed that with his insight and creative acumen, he is set to be in line with the titans. This one’s for the urban gypsy lurking in us all, begging us to shed our cloaks of conventionality. Now, if only, one would have also been given a press kit with the show. 

Published in The Express Tribune, March 31st, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Wild cards of PFDC fashion week</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/138062/wild-cards-of-pfdc-fashion-week</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/138062/wild-cards-of-pfdc-fashion-week#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sat, 26 Mar 11 16:31:33 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=138062</guid>
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				<![CDATA[With PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week at the cusp of commencing its third round, ET combs the fashion week’s host city.]]>
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				<![CDATA[With the Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) Sunsilk Fashion Week at the cusp of commencing its third round, The Express Tribune combs the fashion week’s host city, Lahore for its most exciting talents. Fresh off the board, these designers are incidentally all male, with unique design sensibilities and are set to prove their distinctive mettle in a fashion week studded with fashion bigwigs.


Who: Ali Xeeshan

Background:
Quirky and fun, Ali Xeeshan was a breath of fresh air wafting away the stale stench of overdone looks the year he debuted in 2009. Although he showed a supremely extravagant Mughal inspired dramatic collection, he fine-tuned himself at his third showing with ‘The Phoenix’ that saw Xeeshan rise as a talent that one could possibly bank on. This time around he intends to demonstrate that he’s not all theatrics but means business as well. With a collection titled ‘The Paradox’ — a tribute to the PFDC as a platform for fashion talent. “From the flamboyance of HSY to the simplicity of Saai, the collection is a personal celebration as well, of my own growth as a designer in the past year,” says Xeeshan of his inspiration. He had introduced an entire line of funky crushed tops last time and will incorporate elements of the same since he intends on launching himself in Lahore, Karachi, Islamabad, Dubai and India simultaneously in April.

What to watch out for:
Psychedelic prints and embroidered shawls utilised craftily in clothes that are flamboyant, fun and very local.  

Who: Akif Mehmood

Background: 

There is absolutely no way one could have missed out on Akif Mehmood’s Kalash collection which was plastered in every publication that covered fashion week in its last round. Immensely popular, the collection had a raven canvas to display Kalash’s embroidered traditions. It catapulted Mehmood into the fore of fashion that got the young graduate to designing the line for PFDC’s chair person, Sehyr Saigol’s  Libas. However unlike fashions other two finds, Mohsin and Xeeshan, Mehmood represents a calmness that despite this winning debut collection, had many fashion insiders fear he might just be a one hit wonder. Retaining the structure that his clothes had with the ‘Kalash’ collection, Mehmood is set to prove the skeptics wrong with his latest offering that focuses on gypsies and beggar women. Although he’s chosen an oft used theme, he is confident that his styling and use of fabric will make it distinctively ‘Akif’. Unlike the previous showing the emphasis this time is on the fabric instead of the embellishment.

What to watch out for:
A distinguishing patchwork of fabrics and textures that lend the label ‘Akif’ its very Pakistan feel.

 

 

Who: Mohsin Ali

Background: 

“I can’t do pretty, pretty fashion. It makes me ill,” exclaims Mohsin Ali whose thesis ‘Homeless Hazara’ earned him recognition as a designer who went back to his roots and presented a relevant social commentary via clothes that are indigenous and idiosyncratic. Mixing fabrics that one normally discards as clothing for the poor and bringing nomads in their true form to the ramp, Mohsin made his mark as a creative maverick who always made clothes that reflected his identity: “I want my clothes to project who I am and where I’m coming from,” he asserts. This time around Mohsin intends to spin a weave on ‘Fables and Dreams’ by retaining his individual aesthetic but molding it towards a western feel. “These are clothes for the woman who is patriotic but has accepted globalization,” concludes Mohsin of his autumn/winter offering.

What to watch out for:
The use of ‘razai’ fabrics with hand woven ‘khaddars’ and motifs that symbolise the heritage of northern Pakistan.

 

 

Who: Burhan Khan

Background:
He’s worked with the Japanese designer, Aminaka Wilmont, shown at Barcelona Fashion week and twice at London Fashion Week and is set to bring a completely unexplored aesthetic to Pakistan. On the surface Khan’s work seems very ‘goth’, with Nirvana playing in the background in his studio and a black elephant husk in the lobe of one ear, you can be forgiven for thinking that he might take a turn for the macabre, but that would be too simplistic and not seeing Khan’s true intentions.  Although Khan says that he is “inspired by a lot of weird things” the looks for his purely tar collection are not as crazy as one would assume. Yes there are zips and hoods, but they are so well-structured they can be intense as well as temperate. The ability to restrain the urge to go crazy ala McQueen is what impresses one about Khan.

What to watch out for:
A variety of different lowers and jackets. Post apocalyptic and futuristic.

Published in The Express Tribune, March 27th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Trend report: Princely prints</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/134984/trend-report-princely-prints</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/134984/trend-report-princely-prints#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sat, 19 Mar 11 18:47:46 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[iman.pasha]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[Go wild with head-to-toe prints for maximum effect, or keep things subtle with just one or two patterned pieces.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Vibrant prints and quirky patterns ruled the spring summer catwalks injecting the runway with a healthy dose of much needed colour after a gloomy winter. 

Florals, fruit, animal, polka dot, digital and ethnic inspired prints all cropped up, making this the best time to dig out a few old favorites from seasons past. With PFDC fashion week round the corner promising exclusive voile shows and lawn exhibits causing traffic jams; go wild with head-to-toe prints for maximum effect, or keep things subtle with just one or two patterned pieces.

The young and the brave

Nomi Ansari and Wardha Saleem: With a colour sense that could make a rainbow shy both these designers recently unleashed their psychedelic lawn prints. Ansari left no stone unturned with prints ranging from loud bold geometric designs to intricate filigree. Saleem and her love for all things bright was present not just in her print designs but in her catalogue and her striking billboards. So, for the young and vivacious these two designers are a safe bet.

Mary Katrantzou: Mary’s exquisite digital prints have made her one of the most in-demand designers around with collections stocked at the foremost designer emporiums and featured in every worthwhile fashion publication under the sun. This season the young designer brought stunning, interior-inspired prints in eye-catching summery shades.  She’s added a modern twist to ladylike style and has pieces to suit all body types. If you’re bold enough go for one of her sculptured pieces or mix a delicate print top with some elegant cigarette trousers.  Mary’s pieces are a sure shot way to set you apart from the crowd.

The bold and the beautiful:

Sana Safinaz and Gul Ahmed: Sana Safinaz is as much a brand as Gul Ahmed, and that’s not me making a tall claim, the designer duo proved their entrepreneurial prowess by launching their collection to packed halls at the Expo centre. Just that, in and of itself is a testament to the beauty of their designs. Although, textile giant GulAhmed didn’t form any designer alliance, they had multiple designers design garments using their fabric. The brand is a household name and the brand had a huge variety of prints … variety enough to please almost everyone.

Diane Von Furstenberg: Diane’s signature printed wrap dresses have always been a wardrobe essential amongst the fashion elite for decades, this season she pulled out all the stops to bring us some of the most vibrant prints seen. With the revival of her vintage collection, she has us all going gaga over her retro inspired collection. Offered in a variety of styles from jumpsuits, skirts, dresses to swimwear, we are spoilt for choice.

A variety of both body-conscious &amp; figure hugging shapes have been introduced. For those who don’t have the courage yet to pull of one of her signature prints, many fabulously on-trend printed accessories from bags to laptop cases are available.

&nbsp;


Iman’s Dos:


• Bright, colourful prints are the perfect summer statement

• Invest in printed trousers and wear with a simple t-shirt

• Clash colour’s and prints for the ultimate affect

• Print maxis are the best way to say cool and chic this summer

• Printed accessories are a hot statement this summer

Iman’s Don’ts:

• Invest in a printed jumpsuit if you’re on the voluptuous side. It will enhance the parts you hate

• Wear very loud prints if you’re petite. Find ones that don’t over take you.

• Buy printed jeans. There is nothing tackier

Published in The Express Tribune, March 20th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>PFDC round 3</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/134981/pfdc-round-3</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/134981/pfdc-round-3#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sat, 19 Mar 11 17:29:06 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[As the dates for the third PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week approach, here’s a roundup of what to expect.]]>
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				<![CDATA[The PFDC (Pakistan Fashion Design Council) may not have been the ones to have begun the tradition of fashion weeks in the country, their last effort in November 2010 in Karachi, may not have been as exciting and ebullient as one hoped, yet one couldn’t doubt the potency of the collections presented. From March 29 to April 1, the council is initiating its third round, and while the previous weeks had as many sordid as fabulous fashion moments, the council has been very effective at editing the list of participants this time around.


It could be mere coincidence but Perwani’s entry into lawn is on Holi, the widely celebrated Hindu festival of colour.

With 26 designers including stalwarts like Khaadi, HSY, Sara Shahid and the fresh brood with Ali Xeeshan, Mohsin Ali and Akif Mehmood, the list is impressive in how it binds the best of Karachi’s talents like the highly coveted Feeha Jamshed, Rizwanullah and Adnan Pardesy as well.

“Beginning to stock in Lahore so it was time to show in the city with the PFDC which is a great platform,” clarified Pardesy lest one thinks he has changed ‘parties’, so to speak. “Lahore was a lot of fun for me at the previous fashion week and my council, Fashion Pakistan, has never stopped me from showing anywhere. In fact even Amir and Huma Adnan are showcasing their brand FnkAsia,” added Pardesy.

Envisioned as a trade event, the first two rounds of the weeks managed to provide a point of convergence for Karachi’s Labels, and Dubai’s Studio 8, and paved way for Pakistani designers to stock in Dubai. But akin to a trade event, there were no exhibition spaces as is the custom at all international fashion weeks. “This time we have two exhibition spaces,” confirmed Hiba Sher of the Little Black Book, the official consultants for the PFDC. “One space shall be for the designers to exhibit their clothes and will serve as a key marketing point for them to interact with clients and buyers. The other space will be dedicated to the external exhibitors like the multinationals and export industry personnel,” she said.  “We are working towards providing a more structured and enhanced fashion environment which we hope will be evident in the additions to the week such as the exhibitions, voile shows, the venue and the luxury/prêt shows themselves” said the PFDC’s CEO Saad Ali. Besides logistics and general production of shows, the PFDC has also managed to get a good mix of international press courtesy Latitude, the buyer and international media consultants for the event. Getting news out that Pakistan is as fashion forward and creatively exuberant as any other nation is as important as creating a proper platform for the industry to take off locally. Omar Jamil of Latitude has managed to lure Mary Bowers from The Times and Michele Stockman from AFP, who shall both be visiting Pakistan, twice and thrice respectively. Along with Lurent Loughlin from Vice Magazine and Viviana Mazza from Sette Magazine of Corre Della Sera, this time Latitude has managed to pull off a serious coup with the esteemed fashion authority, Hilary Alexander from The Telegraph who shall be flying in with her videographer.

Interesting and fun fashion collaborations are promised by Hasan Sheheryar Yasin, designer and official spokesperson for the council. The focus has increasingly become to develop a social conscience in fashion and so in lieu of this trend of social responsibility the council is working with a Saarc objective to promote indigenous embroideries in Pakistan. “Eighty per cent of the embroideries that are generated from the club continental region hail from Pakistan,” says Yasin.

“This fashion week you will see how embroideries from places like Balakot, Muzaffarabad and Swat amongst others highlighted to show that Pakistan can move forward with its heritage instead of getting stuck with its legacy,” added Yasin. “There is an element of entertainment in fashion and we vow to mesmerize our guests as we have done in the past,” concluded Yasin proudly.

Published in The Express Tribune, March 20th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Fashion week in Peshawar</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/131259/fashion-week-in-peshawar</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/131259/fashion-week-in-peshawar#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Fri, 11 Mar 11 16:52:17 +0500</pubDate>
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				<![CDATA[express]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[Waqas Ahmad plans to organise an independent fashion week for Peshawar in April.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Twenty-seven year old Waqas Ahmad wouldn’t be recognised on the front rows of any fashion event in Pakistan. But his plans to organise fashion week in Peshawar got him noticed — and earned him rebuke of sorts from stylist Tariq Amin, who reportedly said he “was offended” that Islamabad Fashion Week was being compared to fashion week in Peshawar.


Peshawar’s cultural calendar for young teenagers is steadily being filled up. Call and Strings have performed there recently, and its famed venue — Nishtar Hall, has been opened for events again after several years of closure.

Ahmad’s plan for fashion week is ambitious. A concert  “maybe by Rahat Fateh Ali Khan” is being planned for the event, as are showings by designers.

“The idea is to show the rich culture of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, the crafts, the traditions. Most of the clothes shown at the local fashion weeks aren’t wearable. There are a number of designers here, of both menswear and womenswear.  The womenswear is usually bridals or for parties.”

“I do see a future for the event,” Ahmad told The Express Tribune. “It is a good activity for Peshawar’s talent and we have models and designers here who would want to participate.”

Having worked for Fashion TV abroad, Ahmad has been working for AVT Channel in Peshawar for five years. “I have been advised by my seniors to do as much as I can realistically. So the event may be a two-day one instead of three days, though ideally I want to have a three-day event.”

The event is being planned by the Peshawar Youth Organisation.

While many fashionistas brushed off the idea of the event, Ahmad says he has found his supporters in Style360’s Omar Qamar and Catwalk’s Frieha Altaf. Additionally, he says, companies are excited about working in Peshawar. “Everyone is ready for the event. It’s a virgin market and everyone would love to be the first entrant here.”

Ahmad also realises he will need to look to Lahore and Islamabad for help with logistics. “Lights, make-up, ramps, sound — we will look to professionals from other cities for these.”

He is also speaking to potential sponsors which have shown interest in the event. “I am also in contact with the provincial minister Aqil Shah, who is responsible for the portfolios of sports, culture, tourism, archives and youth affairs.

“I am not doing this for myself,” Ahmad points out. “I am doing this to promote people, from students of fashion design schools to existing designers. I already have a job and am settled,  but I want to do this event for Peshawar and the province, and I want to do it in a positive way.”

Published in The Express Tribune, March 12th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>PIFD goes national</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/125890/pifd-goes-national</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/125890/pifd-goes-national#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Tue, 01 Mar 11 16:29:37 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
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			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=125890</guid>
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				<![CDATA[The Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design aims to launch banches in Peshawar, Faisalabad, Islamabad, Quetta and Multan.]]>
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				<![CDATA[It is the alma mater of fashion’s biggest stars like Hasan Sheheryar Yasin and Kamiar Rokni, yet until a few days ago, Pakistan’s most renowned fashion school could not confer a degree on its students. “We are pleased to announce that we had placed a charter with the National Assembly which has gotten approved and we hope to hear a positive response from the Senate as well,” spoke Hina Tayyaba, the principal of the Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design (PIFD) at the press conference held at the school’s premises for the formal inauguration of the campus. “We are here to celebrate the journey of PSFD to PIFD,” stated Tayyaba at a formal ceremony to honour and acknowledge the government that has been a backbone for the initiation and development of the school.

The inauguration was aptly done by Commerce Minister Makhdoom Amin Fahim with other ministry officials such as Zafar Mehmood and Tariq Puri in attendance. There were several pride worthy moments for the school that day, one of which was the chief guest Amin Fahim’s declaration of two new scholarships along with the announcement that six new institutes will be opened  across Pakistan. “We need to develop the segment of industry in the low key regions of Pakistan that have expertise in crafts such as jewellery, furniture, pottery and tile making. By opening up schools in cities such as Peshawar, Faisalabad, Islamabad, Quetta, Multan and maybe in Sialkot in due time, we hope to change the economies of these areas and take their products to the market places of the world,” spoke Mehmood optimistically.

To project the skill set that students have acquired from the school, the press conference was concluded with an excellent show that demonstrated the institute’s design prowess in every form. Apart from showcasing the graduating class’ work from the past few years, some of which has also graced fashion week ramps to rave reviews, in a most endearing and unique opening, the show began with little children ranging from four to seven years walking the ramp in beautifully crafted garments.

With lollipops in their hands, or in their mouths, wreaths around their arms or titled tiny hats on some, these mini models astounded the audiences with their confidence, poise and their immaculate catwalk that showed off their ensembles in all their glory. “These models can take anyone for a ride,” beamed veteran designer Maheen Khan as she excitedly clapped and oohed and aahed with her peer Nilofer Shahid. Both Khan and Shahid are jury members for the school’s final year thesis but claimed that they had never seen a show this good by the students.

“Children’s wear is a third year project so we never showcase them at graduation shows,” spoke Shavana Abid who, along with Asim Naeem, was responsible for the adorable show. “I wanted to do something different to get some energy on the ramp,” added Naeem . Starting the show with these mini delights was a fabulous idea that not only generated hype in the audience; it also demonstrated a talent of the school that was previously never showcased. Gauging by how these garments were constructed and what a large industry children’s wear is, one should encourage students to work in this direction, where, as an artiste one can experiment immensely without compromising on creativity and tap into the lucrative market. One hopes that the PIFD takes the children’s wear project seriously and holds exclusive shows in the future dedicated to this line of work. Surely, it will enthrall those who are present thereby creating new avenues for fresh graduates.

Published in The Express Tribune, March 2nd, 2011.]]>
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			<title>The new look for fashion: volume or structure?</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/124295/the-new-look-for-fashion-volume-or-structure</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/124295/the-new-look-for-fashion-volume-or-structure#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Tue, 01 Mar 11 09:36:58 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[Pakistan has grown quite fed up of the tent-like voluminous look which has been en vogue for over four years now.]]>
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				<![CDATA[This week fashion’s highest authority Suzy Menkes made a conflicting observation: the graduating class of London’s prestigious Central St. Martins forecasted “constant, roomy, oversize shapes” while all over New York and London fashion weeks, the holy grails of fashion, the look was sleek, slender and structured. 

“Is volume the new shape?” questioned Menkes as she pondered over the fact that “designers this season have mostly focused on the long, thin and shapely. But a Saint Martin’s graduate is supposed to be ahead of the curve,” to finally conclude that “the future of fashion is straight, square and huge.”

Pakistan has already grown quite fed up of the tent-like voluminous look which has been en vogue for over four years now, with many women criticising the loose heavy look for the yards and yards of fabric that it requires. As the new kid on the block, Mohsin Ali, pointed out: women who are pregnant or post-partum or just too plain lazy to work out, have loved the cover-up that loose forms provide, but the young (and fit) are itching to move beyond the sacks. “The next trend to hit us will be a ‘v’ line,” predicts Ali. “The hemlines would converge in a ‘v’ up front and the sleeves would be batwing.”

Designer Kamiar Rokni who is lauded for his funky traditionalism and has incidentally shown form-fitting collections over the past two fashion week showings, feels that we may not have to make the choice between volume and sleek lines. “Although I am personally loving the new minimalism in the international fashion that Celine brought in, I feel for local fashion the new look will be the slick above the knee shalwar kameez either with tights or with churidaars. This is not a replacement to the voluminous look, but an alternative that can coexist with the longer trailing hemlines,” predicted Rokni. It is interesting to note that a relatively low-key designer like Zahra Shahjehan was able to rightfully identify this trend and showcased an entire collection on the same theme. Of the St. Martins students being ahead of the curve, Rokni is not too sure commenting that “the students are probably experimenting and to me their work isn’t really indicative of the international trend of opting for volume.”

Fashion’s most exciting debutante Ali Xeeshan was the only designer to have created his own silhouettes with his own construction of fabric in his last collection titled ‘The Phoenix.’ Known for being ‘crazy cool’, Xeeshan echoes Rokni’s thoughts, “a huge lot has just become friendly with the volume since women in Pakistan have a herd mentality towards fashion. So even though designers are sick of designing the long and loose look for the past few years, many will experiment with fitted clothing along with volume. Hence both looks will coexist for a while now,” explained Xeeshan who also added that it takes at least a year for international trends to filter down to the country’s ramps and stores.

Feeha Jamshed of Teejays is one designer that has proven that she is certainly ahead of her peers. At her last showing in November, she claimed that the reigning trends on the global catwalks (which would soon filter down to the local ramps) would be the print-on-print and a play on lengths. From the trailing-long to the near-the-knee hemlines with a silhouette that hugs the body; diversity is the essence. Lo and behold! That is exactly what fashion weeks in New York and London demonstrated. Jamshed showed a whole spectrum of looks: a long trailing hemline, a short fitted kameez replete with pockets with churidaar, a short kameez and a gharara, military inspired shirts and jackets, and even futuristic fashion with Star Trek like shoulders.

Sahar Atif, A designer who operates her own label and also teaches at the Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design in Lahore, firmly states: “Tents are out. It’s all about the straight look. The silhouette has to change to conform to international trends and basic wearability.”

With the wedding season still in full bloom, women who are getting their trousseaus made or those that are getting clothes to wear for the occasion as family and guests should capitalise on the moment and reuse all those voluminous garments this season before they become a relic of the past, which they certainly will by the time the next bridal season begins. Those who want to latch onto the tents can always justify it by saying they are following the next generation of designers yet to come out from St. Martins.

Published in The Express Tribune, February 27th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Islamabad’s next top model</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/114186/islamabad%e2%80%99s-next-top-model</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/114186/islamabad%e2%80%99s-next-top-model#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Fri, 04 Feb 11 16:14:48 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[momina.sibtain]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=114186</guid>
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				<![CDATA[The 16 year old Anam Ahmed made a name for herself at Islamabad Fashion Week.]]>
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				<![CDATA[With all its ups and downs, Islamabad Fashion Week (IFW) 2011 managed to produce a star.

With the promise to present the fashion industry with something fresh and new, Tariq and Fayeza Amin were successful in selecting a new model, Anam Ahmed, the 16 year old O-Level student who walked the ramp like she owned it and from the opening show till the very end of IFW.

Ahmed began her career when she was 13-years old when she did a shoot for a friend’s cousin. After this offers started coming in and she has done shoots for Tariq Amin, Bina Sultan (BNS), Libas magazine and clothing line, She magazine and GT. Ahmed said that she went to the model hunt because her friends encouraged her to as they thought she had what it takes to be a model. “The model hunt was overwhelming and continued for two days with over 200 girls all aiming to be selected as the new faces of Islamabad,” said Ahmed, “We were asked to walk the ramp in high heels (this was the first time I had ever done this) and girls began to get shortlisted with 200 being cut down to 15.”

Tall and tanned, Ahmed exudes cutting edge beauty and has a figure that can carry off almost any outfit and found her experience at IFW to be a rewarding experience. “I learnt so much from Tariq and Fayeza; they took all of us new models under their wing and treated us like their own.”

However, Ahmed did feel overwhelmed during the show, “If it weren’t for my helper I would never have been able to cope with the craziness that went on backstage. But I still had the best time doing the Sanam Agha and Chinyere  shows at IFW.”

Ahmed felt that she learnt a lot about the fashion industry from another aspect of the event. “The most interesting aspect of the fashion week was the after parties. I saw the positive and the negative aspects of the fashion industry and it was a real eye opener for me as to what this industry is all about.”

Did you face any other problems at IFW? “I had an issue wearing revealing clothes. I don’t mind wearing sleeveless or knee length dresses but I have an issue with backless or very short dresses,” said Ahmed.

When asked what she enjoyed most about IFW, Ahmed said, “The past one week was like living a dream and there is not one moment that I can pinpoint as the best one. When you are living through it, you don’t feel it but looking back it all makes sense.”

Ahmed aspires to continue working hard on her academics and not lose sight of what is most important to her but wants to continue to model on the side. “My education is very important to me and my family and I do not wish to make modelling my career but rather my hobby,” said Ahmed, “I’d rather do quality shows like Hassan Sheheryar Yasin (HSY) or another fashion week but I do not plan on doing every show that comes my way.”

“I would love to be the face of HSY or if given the chance I would love to model for Gucci because it exudes sexy cutting edge chic and that’s a look I feel I can represent best.”

Published in The Express Tribune, February 5th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>The fashion week that was</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/111962/the-fashion-week-that-was</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/111962/the-fashion-week-that-was#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Mon, 31 Jan 11 16:37:59 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Gossip]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=111962</guid>
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				<![CDATA[Taking a closer look at the daily events of the capital's first fashion week.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Day 02

 

With a sluggish three and a half hours delay in the proceedings, one didn’t expect to be enthralled by what the event had in store, but was pleasantly surprised as Gujranwala stepped into the game.

Graduate shows by fashion schools are always parcelled high in creativity and the Gujranwala Institute of Fashion and Technology (GIFT) was no exception. Zainab Omar from Blue Chip was spellbound by the young students’ work, “This is how we will combat fundamentalism,” she enthused. “Give people a chance to express themselves, show their creativity and do something productive and meaningful.”

Some of the pieces depicted were bold and admirable for their artistic interpretation but it wasn’t just the clothes that made an impact. Even the accessories, particularly the bags caught the audience’s attention for their innovative take on ordinary elements.

A young designer trained in Dubai, Bisma, followed up with a line of simple and graceful ensembles in chantilly lace predominately in gold with kamdani and conventional embellishment. Bisma’s collection showcased what the Pakistani woman has been wearing and provided a good insight to foreign onlookers of what’s en vogue for the average woman. Her finale piece was a skilfully crafted gown made entirely from tissue! With a large rose in the centre of the gown, the garment was an ingenious way to draw attention to her sponsor Rose Petal Tissues that also made an important social comment on fashion going green.

For centuries Lawrencepur has been the back bone for men’s store and the collection they showcased in a range of suits, pants, blazers and shirts for the corporate man were just as impeccably done.

The Islamabad Fashion Week based its premise on showcasing mass retail brands and had Metro Shoes providing footwear for the shows.

The inclusion of a mass show brand with an extended history in retail was a commendable move. Although the attempt at pulling a Loboutin with magenta and scarlet soles drew disdain from fashionistas in the front row, it was heartening to see a local manufacturer experimenting and taking inspiration from Fendi and other global brands.

The night closed with a high dose of dramatic traditionalism with Rehana Saigol’s Jashn collection that celebrated the sub continental bride. The designer specialises in recreating the romance of the old world, and with her husband, Shakil’s input in the men’s line, she managed to peak into traditional male fashion that can easily work in contemporary times. While Shakil surrendering slightly to his wife’s love for glamour, he held his fort as his signature crisp white cotton jodhpur pants were paired with elegantly structured sherwanis.

The whole presentation tied beautifully together with Rehana’s glamour and Shakil’s sedate sophistication to represent Pakistan at its festive best.

 Day 03

Islamabad Fashion Week picked up with unparallel ferocity on day three. Commencing three and a half hours late yet again, this time around the event ensured that the wait was well worth it with an impressive presentation by Iqra University and Bareeze’s Chinyere. The evening show belonged to Kamiar Rokni, and it came as no surprise that his showcase was, as always, spectacular. The seasoned Imran Kureishi swept his magic wand over the ramp and stunned audiences with the sudden transformation from a slap dash catwalk to absolute synchrony.

Shaiyanne Malik made a pristine opening but despite all her years in the industry, her collection is still abound with hits and misses - and more misses with a jarring and discordant design aesthetic and colour scheme. Malik is a designer who hasn’t yet learnt where to draw the line and needs to curb herself and edit her work Nonetheless, the choreography ensured for a pleasant fashion experience as comments amongst ladies fluctuated drastically from ‘wow’ to ‘disastrous’.

It was Iqra University’s first showing since its initiation last year, but the students earned the most glowing praise that they could have ever elicited from Charlet Duboc, a journalist at Vice Style in London who enthused, “I have done fittings at St Martins (the prestigious fashion design school in Central London) but am extremely impressed with the level of creativity that the students here have. In London students have no clue about what inspires them.” With abstract inspirations from butterflies to futuristic designs to an interpretation of Lady Gaga, this show was a real treat from its ensembles to the styling to the choreography.

From Iqra’s showing each segment came on stronger visually and creatively; Chinyere’s Rang Ja Pakistan showcase was a stunner in the true fashion sense. Drenched in desi funk and varied hues, this supremely wearable artsy desi collection was replete with delicious bags and beautiful jewellery. This is a Pakistan you want to wear, flaunt and pass on to your kids. “We will be starting shoes soon,” promises Zain Aziz of Chinyere upping the ante of desi cool pret in the country and firmly establishing the fact that mass market doesn’t mean cheap and gauche.

Kamiar Rokni closed the show with a repertoire of his brand showcasing his recent Folkistan and bridal wear collection. This time around he made additions to the line with kurtas for men that were cheeky and cool, akin to Rokni’s own personality. The hoodie sporting soda bottles attached to a kurta and a rooster embroidered at the back of another made quite a stir. What wowed audiences however was his marrying of bright colours like fushia, yellow and black on a wedding ensemble that showcased that Rokni is a designer par excellence whose creativity can shine through even in something as trite as a lenga. Needless to say many a young bride who isn’t afraid to make a statement will be queuing up this wedding season for Rokni’s exquisitely crafted trousseau.

Day 04

The finale didn’t quite make the bang that one hopes from a true finale show. Niolfer Shahid showcased what her brand Meeras does best: sophisticated regalia that made an awe inspiring impact with her meticulous embellishment and art prints, but lacked that energy and aplomb that one expects from finale shows. Nonetheless the hall was splitting at its seams with people shoving, pushing and trampling upon each other to get there for Shahid’s show.

The FnkAsia and Sanam Agha shows had near full attendance and were fun and brimming with energy with both brands creating uniquely desi ensembles. “I’ve taken influence from everywhere,” said Huma Adnan of FnkAsia, whose brand show cased a line of desi cool dresses and a variety of lowers that will do well with school and college girls and those hitting the beaches abroad. Adnan experimented heavily with lowers and created a range of churidaars and tights with indigenous yet innovative edgings like smocking, chundri and tie and dye. She also brought back the shalwar and did a variety of harem pants. “I did an Omani shalwar this time; this season I am just doing tiers,” said Adnan. “My Boho shalwars are a hot seller in Indian and all of this collection has been sold to India, Houston and California.” While the designer’s bags did not make as much of an impact, one piece, a turban turned into a satchel was inventive. All her jewellery was made from recycled pieces of scraps and left over fabric from her factory.

Sanam Agha seems to have gotten her groove back and with her luxury pret line in Islamabad, one could see that Agha had made a concerted effort of showcasing a collection that did justice to her fashion degree and her own stylish self. Each outfit had her signature dragonfly broche and the collection was predominantly based on the dexterous use of soosi to create a line of what she calls “indigenous romance” with the rose, the international symbol of love, as its central focus. “I love soosi, so I wanted to use it creatively in a manner that would appeal to everyone.” Agha’s opening piece, a very Missoni-esque black jump suit with fitted pants akin to a churidaar with layers at the ankle and a soosi upper, caught attention for its interesting fusion of a very eastern fabric crafted in a very western aesthetic. The collection further carried soosi as pants, belts and accents on ensembles. A watermelon pink jumpsuit also stood out for its structure as did a line of cut work dresses and tops. This is a line that had women pointing in excitement for future purchases.

The Islamabad Fashion Week came to a close dramatically with the announcement of a Pakistan chapter at the World Fashion Organisation and if there’s one thing that this week long fashion showcase established was strong international relations. Giving the opening to Sharifah Kirana, a Malaysian designer on day four was an excellent diplomatic move. Kirana showcased a line of traditional Malaysian women’s wear of a sarong and jacket and accorded an important window into Malay culture. There may not be a market for such clothing in Pakistan, but by inviting such designers, the country can strengthen its relations with its ‘friends’ and establish crucial social and cultural linkages.

Press conference

At the closing of the Islamabad Fashion Week, a press conference was held to announce that a Pakistan Chapter has been set up for the World Fashion Organisation (WFO).

“There should be no feudalism in fashion,” stated Arshad Siddiqui, the CEO of Triple E events. Yet despite his claims at a more democratised participation in fashion, Siddiqui is the CEO for life and the Excutive Director (Tariq Amin) shall complete a three year term and will be replaced only if the work is not up to the mark. WFO has been established to, “Increase participation in world fashion and to integrate Pakistan on the world fashion arena,” said Paco de Jaimes, the founder of WFO, who saw Pakistan’s inclusion the organisation as an effort at “building global bridges of understanding across nations”. The purpose of the WFO is to eradicate poverty and use fashion as a tool for development and peace since, “It is the largest source of industrial development, affecting billions around the world,” stated De Jaimes.  It was established that the Pakistan Fashion Council, with Siddiqui along with a list of international and local fashion designers and Amin will collectively decide on that lucky individual who gets to participate at the World Fashion Week due to be held in New York in 2012.

The council will be hosting the Karachi Fashion Week in June and hopes to ignite international interest like it has at the onset of its debut fashion week in Islamabad.

Published in The Express Tribune, February 1st,  2011.]]>
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			<title>World Fashion Organisation: Pakistan signs contract</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/111749/world-fashion-organisation-pakistan-signs-contract</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/111749/world-fashion-organisation-pakistan-signs-contract#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Mon, 31 Jan 11 04:24:01 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[express]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=111749</guid>
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				<![CDATA[The organisation’s aim is to use fashion as a tool for development.]]>
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				<![CDATA[In spite of a lacklustre fashion week, the organising members have won themselves a contract with the World Fashion Organisation for their Pakistan Chapter. This cataclysmic news was announced at a press conference held on site at the Serena Hotel in Islamabad where the fashion week was being held.

The World Fashion Organisation has been established to “increase participation in world fashion and to integrate Pakistan on the world fashion arena,” said Paco de Jaimes, the founder of the organisation, who saw Pakistan’s inclusion as an effort at “building global bridges of understanding across nations”. The purpose of the World Fashion Organisation is to eradicate poverty and use fashion as a tool for development and peace since “it is the largest source of industrial development, affecting billions around the world,” De Jaimes stated.

The World Fashion Week will take place in New York in 2012 where one Pakistani designer shall participate with designers from all over the globe. As the designated CEO of the Pakistan chapter, stylist Tariq Amin, the creative head behind the Islamabad Fashion Week, will personally handpick a designer for the task. “Wow!” exclaimed Amin. “Will try to keep my feet on the ground. I will be monitoring who gets to go to the World Fashion Week. This is just the beginning and we will put Pakistan and Islamabad in the world of fashion.”

Published in The Express Tribune, January 31st,  2011.]]>
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			<title>Islamabad Fashion Week-Day 3: A fresh take by budding artists</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/111118/islamabad-fashion-week-day-3-a-fresh-take-by-budding-artists</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/111118/islamabad-fashion-week-day-3-a-fresh-take-by-budding-artists#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sun, 30 Jan 11 09:25:03 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[momina.sibtain]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category><category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=111118</guid>
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				<![CDATA[The third day of Islamabad Fashion Week saw much more creativity than the first two days.]]>
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				<![CDATA[The third day of Islamabad Fashion Week saw much more creativity than the first two days. The event showcased three prêt shows by Shaiyanne Malik, Bareeze (Chinyere) and Iqra University, along with a couture collection by Kamiar Rokni. The decor was remarkable, with tastefully decorated candelabras on the sidelines.

Infused with various textiles and embellished with swarovski crystals, Kamiar’s couture was the glitz and glamour of the show. The artist’s work was fresh and used pagan symbols craftily laden with crystals.

Audience swayed to the music during Kamiar’s show, which was a great infusion of 80s rock with singles like “My Sharona” by The Knack. Chinyere’s closing song, which was a remix of Pakistan’s national anthem, was a fresh take.

Budding artists of Iqra University with their collection “Fauvist de construction” did a fantastic job creating unique funky designs and put on an entertaining show. Ayesha Yousaf of the graduating class at Iqra University presented Lady Gaga inspired baroque prints. “I’ve had a great time at the fashion week,” she said, “but it has been hectic.”

Chinyere’s collection was great and received standing ovation. The team redefined prêt wear and took high street fashion to a high-end scale.

Its traditional collection of clothes, jewellery and accessories were a fusion of great colours, presenting funky bags, clutches and an inspiring jewellery collection.

Shaiyanne’s traditional collection of ghagras and cholis, however, was tacky and not up to the mark. The designer brought very generic kurtas and shaadi-wear.

Published in The Express Tribune, January 30th,  2011.]]>
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			<title>Islamabad Fashion Week, another glistening day</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/110771/islamabad-fashion-week-another-glistening-day</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/110771/islamabad-fashion-week-another-glistening-day#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Sat, 29 Jan 11 06:30:46 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[momina.sibtain]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=110771</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[The Islamabad Fashion Week trails onto the second day of the designer extravaganza, picking up several notches.]]>
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				<![CDATA[The Islamabad Fashion Week trails onto the second day of the designer extravaganza, picking up several notches. The day’s line-up, as it progresses:

Bisma Ahmed 

The aspiring, young designer presents an ethnic-meets-funky collection. She experiments with earth tones like champagne in silken and chiffon textures adorned by traditional laces and braids, adding poise to the look by dazzling hairdos.

An exquisitely designed dress, cut out of light blue tissue paper and studded with Swarovski crystals steals the show. The sparkling, delicate dress is a part of Bisma’s collection and speaks volumes about the creativity of this fearless designer.

“I wanted a higher level of involvement with the brand and as this is a fashion show and we make tissue, we decided to merge the two concepts,” says Asad Mujeeb, who works at a leading soft tissue brand.

Lawrencepur 

Think casual cotton shirts and vintage-y travel bags. The male models pull if off well while females lack the oomph on the ramp. The texture is of fine quality.

Gujranwala Institute of Fashion Institute (GIFT)

Of modest beginnings into the industry, the GIFT team outdo themselves by introducing architecture-infused fabrics. Some outfits flaunt tribal essence with lanterns embedded into the attire. Some dresses have tiny disco balls to accentuate the modern look. The use of accessories stands out as a neat signature.

The infused fabric and architectures are Dominatrix style. The use of wrought iron rods to support the skirts are a unique presentation as well as the Ninja turtle inspired hoodies. The makeup is top-of-the-line.

Rehana Saigol

Rehana Saigol’s show draws in the crowds! Islamabad showed its finest at the show. With chatter buzzing through the crowds, the event feels like a fashion soiree. With the Chanel and the Alexander Mcqueen coming out, Islamabad’s fashionistas are dressed to kill.

The Jashan collection played with traditional silhouette and embellishments with modern cuts saris and churidars.

Men come out in achkans, kurtas, churidars and dhoti shalwar, lending a very interesting end to the evening.

Critique

Alia Zaida, a stunning supermodel from the 80s exclaims, “IFW had a rocky start but I’m really happy to see talent, especially a fresh crop of models. Each look was refreshing and different. Its exposing new trends to the public eye.”

Saadia Khan, an MBBS student proclaims, “ The show was excellent and the dresses were really good. I particularly liked Lawrencepur.”

Angie Marshall says, “I’m impressed by the organisation and the way things were done.”

The Blue Chip Editor Zainab Omar seems optimistic, “I think anything positive coming out of Pakistan is amazing. I am happy to support Tariq Aminn. It’ll take a couple of years to establish ground.”

Verve event managers Imtisal Zafar and Arsalan Khan are behind the ensemble of this glamorous event. The creative duo share their enthusiasm for the job, “We gave them three options: projecting live walk, still photos or videos to run in the backdrop. Everything has to be a part of the ensemble,” Arsalan comments.

Imtisal echoes similar sentiment, “The execution is the most important part of putting the event together.”

“We initially approached Tariq Amin and he loved the idea that someone local was presenting their talent in the city. He is in charge of all the concepts that we exectuted.” The duo has worked on the setup from the lighting to the sound to the ramp.

Amina Gohar (Pomme), a New York-based choreographer has worked rigorously to perfect the catwalk.

Published in The Express Tribune, January 29th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Islamabad Fashion ‘weak’ fails to impress</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/110558/islamabad-fashion-%e2%80%98weak%e2%80%99-fails-to-impress</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/110558/islamabad-fashion-%e2%80%98weak%e2%80%99-fails-to-impress#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Fri, 28 Jan 11 16:21:07 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
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				<![CDATA[The event sorely lacked substance, not to mention a gruelling time table that further exacerbated the situation.]]>
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				<![CDATA[To say that day one of the much touted fashion ‘trade’ event Islamabad Fashion Week was a mind-numbing experience would be a gross understatement.

It seemed to have all the vitals in check at its commencement: a proper website with concise information on the participants, sponsors, media and the event schedules; the right connections with the government, important business corporations and an interesting mix of foreign participation like the World Fashion Organisation from Italy and Cosmoworld from The Netherlands.

Yet what the event sorely lacked was substance, not to mention a gruelling time table that further exacerbated the situation. To show one crass fashion presentation after another from noon till evening made for a very unpleasant experience for the handful of onlookers who attended the event. “We want to see something new, something we will not get to see in other parts of the world,” bemoaned the international press.

Although the event promised to bring forth fresh ‘talent’, all it did was showcase those who have none. It was a slapdash high school presentation, replete with hoots and whistles, with amateur models. Interestingly it was the female models that were off mark, the male models on the contrary were fantastic but came out in the last segment of the night in Ammar Belal’s couture show.

From the design element of the morning ‘pret’ shows, it would appear to onlookers that women in Pakistan wear lingerie as clothing. With 30 years of design experience the first show of the day by Deeba and Zoe attempted a collection in inferior quality of satin and lace that fluctuated heavily between an Elan toga and Muse minimalism in a distorted manner.

Shehzad Nawaz and Sumaira followed next with a coherent but monotonous collection in chiffons that aped the Ayesha Farooq Hashwani aesthetic of cocktail dresses encrusted with a central embellished motif. Envogue’s showcase was no less inventive employing curtain details and frills onto a range of badly cut and poorly structured clothes.

A series of such awful presentations that do not represent the design community in Pakistan made for a shameful start of an event that had massive potential to showcase real fashion talent to international attendees that hold influence in global fashion arenas.

Shafak Habib presented her Cleopatra inspired jewellery line, a regurgitated collection from her showing at Bridal Couture Week. One can’t expect jewellery designers to churn out such expensive pieces of art at the drop of a hat, but one can surely improvise on a more creative and different presentation. The ensembles, also used from BCW, stripped the raw aura of luxury and grace that the jewellery exuded. The saving grace as expected was Ammar Belal. The fashion maverick salvaged the evening in his characteristic imaginative manner.

In his “Corporate Resort Collection”, Belal showcased his brand’s strength of designing impeccable stylish clothes for the ‘dandy’ in all men. Although he played it safe, he spelled out his creativity in designing for men who are not yet completely ready to push their boundaries for fashion but still desire to make a statement through drain pipes, checks and stripes.

With Elvis Presley in the background and models dancing onto the stage, the entire ramp exploded in activity and song. A clever artiste, Belal juxtaposed the 1970s rock and roll culture with a few futuristic pieces in his monochromatic line for women that were accentuated with that feminine burst of scarlet in true Hollywood style, to show the direction that his brand was taking at present for the future.

His structured dresses, pleated pants, shirts and blazers for the corporate power woman were a great statement in androgyny without compromising on femininity and sexuality.

And when there is talk of sex appeal nobody does it better than gorgeous 1980s model Alia Zaidi who flew down from Hong Kong for Belal’s finale piece.

As she sashayed down the ramp with her classic oomph, Belal tied his brand together seamlessly: imaginative, fun and downright sexy.

This was a Pakistan that we wanted to show to the world for a softer global image; a Pakistan that can be sexy and cool without being raunchy and vulgar.

Published in The Express Tribune, January 29th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>Islamabad Fashion Week: Who are you wearing?</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/110187/islamabad-fashion-week-who-are-you-wearing</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/110187/islamabad-fashion-week-who-are-you-wearing#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Thu, 27 Jan 11 19:29:37 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[momina.sibtain]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Punjab]]></category><category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=110187</guid>
			<description>
				<![CDATA[The Express Tribune ventures to get a low-down on the budding fashionistas, the motifs and cuts.]]>
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				<![CDATA[On day one of the fashion show, The Express Tribune ventures to get a low-down on the budding fashionistas, the motifs and cuts, the walk and the talk from this side of the Margallas.

Enter the galore of velvet chairs and a modest-looking ramp. Preshow, the frenzied crew is seen working on the setup and facing technical problems. At mid-day, the hall is still scanty with a headcount of 60 odd people. Mics are being tested for sound checks.

The show ensues with four prêt and three couture showcases.

Deeba and Zoe

The duo emerge, with an experience of 30 years in the industry.

They flaunt long dresses, accentuated by hats and embellishments, but the designs and motifs spell high school. The fabricated Louboutins are an eyesore. Majorly.

High end fashion material? Not really. Some dresses show telltale signs of no ironing. The attires are cute but reveal lining. Select tops seem to be pulled off the racks of H&amp;M, NY and Company. The pairing with leggings is anything but flattering. Some of the girls have got the look but need to be groomed in walking the walk.

Paco de Jaimes, fashion journalist remarks, “A nice collection. Very wearable. Better to have their individual style than follow the herd. Promising  creative potential.”

SNS 

The not-quite prêt line!

Flowy dresses surface with funky head gear. The style is Ayesha Hashwani- inspired and an absolute eyesore. In the evening wear, some outfits look right out of Victoria’s Secret.

Envogue

The fashion warehouse has been around since 1993. Their turnout progresses through the day with an appealing merge of colour. The label presents flapper dresses, some missing hemming.

Ammar Belal

Working on a corporate collection and architecture designs, Ammar Belal presents a suave combination of white, red and black, with an assortment of materials like tweed and office-savvy accessories.

Critics 

Tommy Amin Jaan, a housewife, said, “No sense of anything. Horrible and tacky.  Not quite what we had expected it to be.”

Zainab Omar, Blue Chip editor, said, “ The artistes, designers and models need to have their creativity brought to the limelight. The launch of this platform is indeed a great effort.”

The verdict

Even with the initial glitches, the IFW 2011 is a great platform for newcomers to showcase their talent and creativity. But the key to success in the fashion industry is cutting edge presentation and letting go of inhibitions to let inspiration flow. The designers that opened the show on the first day should encash the exposure and opportunity to take their designs to the next level and continue to innovate and grow.

Metro Shoes officially sponsored the shoe side of things.

Published in The Express Tribune, January 28th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>The big guns at Islamabad Fashion Week</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/110108/the-big-guns-at-islamabad-fashion-week</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/110108/the-big-guns-at-islamabad-fashion-week#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Thu, 27 Jan 11 17:11:49 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[hani.taha]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Pakistan]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=110108</guid>
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				<![CDATA[IFW has managed to gather an interesting, if eclectic, talent pool for its couture shows.]]>
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				<![CDATA[The line up for the Islamabad Fashion Week evening shows reserved for fashion’s select few have already met with censure. Why just Ammar Belal, House of Kamiar Rokni, Chand and Chunni (Rehana and Shakil) Saigol and Nilofer Shahid? Why not the king of couture HSY (Hassan Sheheryar Yasin) or the emblem of sophistication Sana Safinaz?

The fashion fraternity is rife with reports that all designers were approached but given the perceived credibility (or lack thereof) of the Islamabad Fashion Week (IFW) and hence, only a few agreed. Additionally given their collective fatigue from the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week in November followed by the Bridal Couture Week (BCW), one feels that IFW has managed to gather an interesting, if eclectic, talent pool for its couture shows. “The fashion week gets a whole breath of work with the classic, old guards like Nilofer and bridals by Chunni, perfect fusion by Kami and a left wing and young (maverick) like me,” said Belal.

Each of the five designers participating in the evening shows has confirmed one thing though: they are taking part because of stylist Tariq Amin and his unrelenting support to each of them during their careers nascent stages. “He’s never failed me. He’s part of the family”, says Chunni Saigol while Shahid and Belal recounted the myriad ways the stylist has helped them in their growth as designers.

Yet personal relationships aside, one feels that these five designers are safe bets who are guaranteed to appease the foreign press and diplomatic audience that shall form the bulk of the evening shows. Also keeping the trade aspect in mind, these big guns are amongst the rare breed of designers who have functioning manufacturing units capable of delivering orders to local and foreign buyers on time.

With this group the international press and diplomatic community gets to see four different parts of Pakistan. In this sense, the first half of the day of the event will focus on the trade aspect centring on mass retailers like Lawrencepur and Bonanza that are a depiction of Pakistan’s street wear, while the latter half of the evenings will be a cultural show representing the gamut of traditions and craft that Pakistan has to boast.

From the fashion aspect, it would be interesting to see the husband and wife duo, Chunni and Chand Saigol, collaborate on a collection together given that their general design aesthetic is at opposite ends of the spectrum. “It is a complete departure from Chand’s work,” admits Chunni who is known for her bridals and heavy embellishment on formal traditional attire but is looking forward to “jolting a few conventional grooms”. The collection will focus on a play of colours that Chunni said, “Sophisticated Pakistani women are afraid of. The more sophisticated they are the more they turn to beige and shunt colour.”

Nilofer Shahid will be closing the fashion week with a finale that shall be retrospective of her work over the years. “This collection is not for the buyers,” said Shahid candidly. “It is just a round up for the fashion week as a cultural experience.” Akin to Shahid’s collection at BCW, she will be showcasing pieces from her Paris exhibitions as well as her Umar Khayam, Khalil Jibran and Noor Jehan collections.

Perhaps the most exciting shows will be by Ammar Belal and Kamiar Rokni, both designers known for their highly creative and extraordinary presentations. While Belal’s aesthetic is outlandish and cool, Rokni is known for fusing indigenous tradition giving it a western twist. “I am showing my most wearable collection to date. It carries the silhouettes from my New York collection but is done entirely in white for the power women in Pakistan’s corporate spheres,” explained Belal.

“We are (also) doing a ‘Repertoire’ of the House of Kamiar Rokni showcasing essentially a repertoire of all our work from our bridals and formal wears to our pret and couture. It is also our first foray into men’s wear,” says Rokni who promises that his ethnic men’s wear will be ‘fun’.

The show kicked off yesterday at Islamabad Serena Hotel.

Published in The Express Tribune, January 28th, 2011.]]>
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			<title>A fashion week with a twist</title>
			<link>https://tribune.com.pk/story/108455/a-fashion-week-with-a-twist</link>
			<comments>https://tribune.com.pk/story/108455/a-fashion-week-with-a-twist#comments</comments>
			<pubDate>Mon, 24 Jan 11 16:19:36 +0500</pubDate>
			<dc:creator>
				<![CDATA[momina.sibtain]]>
			</dc:creator>
			<category><![CDATA[Life &amp; Style]]></category><category><![CDATA[Fashion]]></category>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://tribune.com.pk/?p=108455</guid>
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				<![CDATA[Islamabad Fashion Week 2011 raised many eyebrows from fashion industry regarding unconventional organization.]]>
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				<![CDATA[Islamabad Fashion Week 2011 has raised many eyebrows from the fashion industry regarding the unconventional manner of its organisation.

It is safe to say that the usual mega fashion labels such as Hasan Sheheryar Yasin (HSY), Sana Safinaz and Khadija Shah have not been invited to participate in the venture.

Tariq Amin and Faiza Amin aim at opening up trade barriers between Pakistan and the rest of the world’s fashion industry with this event and hence, chose Islamabad — the primary house for the diplomatic community — for the launch.

Hoping to captivate the eye of the international community, Fashion Week Islamabad will hold three pret shows a day and a couture show in the evening. Major focus is being laid on the pret line, “Pret lines sell! You look at the international markets and even in high end fashion it is pret wear that always sells. There is only a niche market for couture and Pakistan has seen and shown its beautiful couture collection. This is the time for pret wear,” said Faiza Amin.

With four featured couture shows by Nilofer Shahid, Tia Noon and Kamiar Rokhni, Rehana and Shakeel Saigol, and Ammar Belal, Islamabad Fashion Week is looking to create a launching platform for upcoming designers.

The trade fair incorporated within the umbrella of fashion week, allows potential investors to meet with Pakistani manufacturers. Aspiring to represent a new niche of designers, Islamabad Fashion Week is unique in its concept and the organisers are hopeful it will convey the ideology behind its foundation. While preparations for the event are underway, the event will kick start on January 27.

Make up artistes

The absence of Ather Shahzad and Khawar Riaz has been somewhat of a controversial topic. However, the event intends to bring in Shaheen Saeed, Rukiya and Angie Marshall from Karachi and Tony &amp; Guy from Lahore; each artiste will be taking care of the pret shows. The four day Fashion Week will divide the work load by allocating one stylist per day to take care of the shows that entire day. All couture shows will be managed and styled by Tariq Amin.

Security issues

Since everyone wants to make this Fashion Week a unique one, security measures have been taken up a notch. Invites are being sent out in the form of passports with each show having its specialised stamp. Just when we thought visas weren’t required within Pakistan, Fashion Week makes the visa culture an integral part of their event. Each passport will hold the national identity card number of the invitee and a stamp for each show they are invited to. An immigration desk, run by PIA staff, will be placed next to the security check in and the creme de la creme of Islamabad will pass through immigration to enter the premises of Serena Hotel.

Music

While audiences are tired of watching models walking down the ramp to Nusrat Fateh Ali Khans “Afreen Afreen” and “Piya Re”, Islamabad Fashion Week promises a fresher take on music by bringing on board Dj Mas from Islamabad meaning that this years fashion week will be home to trance and house music.

Marginalised schools and designers

When one thinks of Fashion Schools in Pakistan it is the Pakistan School of Fashion Design and Karachi School of Textile and Fashion Design which come to mind. However, Islamabad Fashion Week is making way to represent the usually marginalised schools including Iqra University and the Gujranwala Institute of Fashion Technology. Along with the students from these universities, underground fashion designers have also been invited to participate. After careful scrutiny, the designers have been given the official colours for Spring/Summer 2010 and have been asked to work within the domain of these palates. With World Fashion TV covering the event, these designers are sure to get the recognition they have been craving.

Model Hunt

For the first time in the history of any fashion week being held in Pakistan, a model hunt was conducted to bring on board  new models. After an extensive search, 30 emerging models from Lahore and Islamabad were picked out. The new models have been through vigorous training and Tariq Amin remains positive that they (new models) will pull be able to through the week. Senior models have not been left behind but will be walking the ramp for the couture shows.

Published in The Express Tribune, January 25th, 2011.]]>
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